knackered threads on wheel studs

[Tom Woods]

As an additional problem to my dodgy brakes I was thinking about
sorting out my knackered wheel studs.

On one hub there is no thread down at the bottom of the stud due to
the wheel rattling about on loose nuts.

I have tried tightening a new wheel nut onto the stud but the threads
in the nut give before the ones on the stud.

I know i can fit new studs but it looks to be hard work - so can i buy
a die and recut the ones on the studs with them in place on the hub?

If so then was size and thread are they?

 

[JD]

Tom Woods wrote:

> As an additional problem to my dodgy brakes I was thinking about
> sorting out my knackered wheel studs.
>
> On one hub there is no thread down at the bottom of the stud due to
> the wheel rattling about on loose nuts.
>
> I have tried tightening a new wheel nut onto the stud but the threads
> in the nut give before the ones on the stud.
>
> I know i can fit new studs but it looks to be hard work - so can i buy
> a die and recut the ones on the studs with them in place on the hub?
>
> If so then was size and thread are they?

It would help if we knew the details of the vehicle.

Landrovers used 9/16 BSF wheel studs up to very late S2a. Since then they
have used 16mm, I think ISO on very late S2a, S3, Range Rover,
90/110/Defender. Not sure about Disco 2/3 or RR post classic but I suspect
they are the same even though the pattern is different.

And yes, you can get a die that will recut the thread. Probably the best to
get will be a die nut, which is a die that is hexagonal to fit a spanner,
which will be easier than using a proper holder in this case because of the
other studs. The size spanner will be bigger than the nut size.
JD
JD

 

[Tom Woods]

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 06:59:09 +1000, JD <[email protected]>
wrote:

>It would help if we knew the details of the vehicle.
>
>Landrovers used 9/16 BSF wheel studs up to very late S2a. Since then they
>have used 16mm, I think ISO on very late S2a, S3, Range Rover,
>90/110/Defender. Not sure about Disco 2/3 or RR post classic but I suspect
>they are the same even though the pattern is different.
>
>And yes, you can get a die that will recut the thread. Probably the best to
>get will be a die nut, which is a die that is hexagonal to fit a spanner,
>which will be easier than using a proper holder in this case because of the
>other studs. The size spanner will be bigger than the nut size.

Hub in question is from a late 1980 series 3 (post hub seal change as
i now know!). It has 27mm wheel nuts.

Where can i buy a die nut from?

 

[Tom Woods]

On Sun, 24 Sep 2006 22:04:55 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hub in question is from a late 1980 series 3 (post hub seal change as
>i now know!). It has 27mm wheel nuts.
>
>Where can i buy a die nut from?

okay. found them along with normal taps and dies at www.tapdie.com

is it 16x2mm then?

 

[EMB]

Tom Woods wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 06:59:09 +1000, JD <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>> It would help if we knew the details of the vehicle.
>>
>> Landrovers used 9/16 BSF wheel studs up to very late S2a. Since then they
>> have used 16mm, I think ISO on very late S2a, S3, Range Rover,
>> 90/110/Defender. Not sure about Disco 2/3 or RR post classic but I suspect
>> they are the same even though the pattern is different.
>>
>> And yes, you can get a die that will recut the thread. Probably the best to
>> get will be a die nut, which is a die that is hexagonal to fit a spanner,
>> which will be easier than using a proper holder in this case because of the
>> other studs. The size spanner will be bigger than the nut size.
>
> Hub in question is from a late 1980 series 3 (post hub seal change as
> i now know!). It has 27mm wheel nuts.
>
> Where can i buy a die nut from?
>
>
Any decent tool supplier

 

[slob]

shirley if there is no fred due to the loose wheel rattling about then there won't be much metal to recut. you might b ebetter orf changing them it ain't that hard.

 

[Tom Woods]

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 10:32:00 +1200, EMB <[email protected]> wrote:

>Tom Woods wrote:
>> On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 06:59:09 +1000, JD <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> It would help if we knew the details of the vehicle.
>>>
>>> Landrovers used 9/16 BSF wheel studs up to very late S2a. Since then they
>>> have used 16mm, I think ISO on very late S2a, S3, Range Rover,
>>> 90/110/Defender. Not sure about Disco 2/3 or RR post classic but I suspect
>>> they are the same even though the pattern is different.
>>>
>>> And yes, you can get a die that will recut the thread. Probably the best to
>>> get will be a die nut, which is a die that is hexagonal to fit a spanner,
>>> which will be easier than using a proper holder in this case because of the
>>> other studs. The size spanner will be bigger than the nut size.
>>
>> Hub in question is from a late 1980 series 3 (post hub seal change as
>> i now know!). It has 27mm wheel nuts.
>>
>> Where can i buy a die nut from?
>>
>>
>Any decent tool supplier

can anybody recomment a uk supplier?

it seems like they are 16x1.5mm which i cant seem to find.

I was thinking of recutting them to avoid the effort of taking the hub
off and replacing the studs. Can anybody tell me how i would go about
doing the studs if i were to do it properly?

 

[Lee_D]

Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> can anybody recomment a uk supplier?
>
> it seems like they are 16x1.5mm which i cant seem to find.
>
> I was thinking of recutting them to avoid the effort of taking the hub
> off and replacing the studs. Can anybody tell me how i would go about
> doing the studs if i were to do it properly?

Belt the old one out and press the new one in with a good vice. Recently
done one on the trailer. Much simpler than I expected.

Lee D

 

[beamendsltd]

In message <[email protected]>
Tom Woods <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 06:59:09 +1000, JD <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >It would help if we knew the details of the vehicle.
> >
> >Landrovers used 9/16 BSF wheel studs up to very late S2a. Since then they
> >have used 16mm, I think ISO on very late S2a, S3, Range Rover,
> >90/110/Defender. Not sure about Disco 2/3 or RR post classic but I suspect
> >they are the same even though the pattern is different.
> >
> >And yes, you can get a die that will recut the thread. Probably the best to
> >get will be a die nut, which is a die that is hexagonal to fit a spanner,
> >which will be easier than using a proper holder in this case because of the
> >other studs. The size spanner will be bigger than the nut size.
>
> Hub in question is from a late 1980 series 3 (post hub seal change as
> i now know!). It has 27mm wheel nuts.
>
> Where can i buy a die nut from?
>
>

You don't need one - just a big hammer. The studs are press-in, so
just knock the offending one out, put a new one in and pull it in
to place with a wheel nut and something to act as a spacer.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
www.radioparadise.com - Good Music, No Vine
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive

 

[rads]

On Sun, 24 Sep 2006 21:47:10 +0100, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> wrote:

>As an additional problem to my dodgy brakes I was thinking about
>sorting out my knackered wheel studs.
>
>On one hub there is no thread down at the bottom of the stud due to
>the wheel rattling about on loose nuts.
>
>I have tried tightening a new wheel nut onto the stud but the threads
>in the nut give before the ones on the stud.
>
>I know i can fit new studs but it looks to be hard work - so can i buy
>a die and recut the ones on the studs with them in place on the hub?
>
>If so then was size and thread are they?
>
>
>
If there is "no thread" you have nothing to recut. Much better to just
belt out the old stud and replace as others have suggested.

David

 

[Tom Woods]

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:22:31 +0100, beamendsltd
<[email protected]> wrote:

>You don't need one - just a big hammer. The studs are press-in, so
>just knock the offending one out, put a new one in and pull it in
>to place with a wheel nut and something to act as a spacer.

How do you pull the new one in? wouldnt it need something on the back
or a hole through the middle to do this?

I did try to press one out with a ball joint seperator and a spacer on
the back but it didnt want to shift.

 

[Lee_D]

Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:22:31 +0100, beamendsltd
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> You don't need one - just a big hammer. The studs are press-in, so
>> just knock the offending one out, put a new one in and pull it in
>> to place with a wheel nut and something to act as a spacer.
>
> How do you pull the new one in? wouldnt it need something on the back
> or a hole through the middle to do this?
>
> I did try to press one out with a ball joint seperator and a spacer on
> the back but it didnt want to shift.

Whack it wivanammer.

As Richard suggests the base of the studs are sort of splined, as you pull
the new stud back in with the nut it will pull the splined bit through the
hole, basically a very tight friction fit with the splines digging in to
prevent rotation.

Have you the early small nut's or the later larger ones? I've an rear axle
at Ma and Pa's that your welcome to that came off Percy. It has the smaller
nuts/studs. If it's any use it's yours.

 

[Tom Woods]

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 12:22:45 +0100, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
>about:
>> On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:22:31 +0100, beamendsltd
>> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>
>>> You don't need one - just a big hammer. The studs are press-in, so
>>> just knock the offending one out, put a new one in and pull it in
>>> to place with a wheel nut and something to act as a spacer.
>>
>> How do you pull the new one in? wouldnt it need something on the back
>> or a hole through the middle to do this?
>>
>> I did try to press one out with a ball joint seperator and a spacer on
>> the back but it didnt want to shift.
>
>Whack it wivanammer.

Im good at that . I was polishing the landy earlier and realised
that my landrover polishing kit consists of wet and dry sandpaper, G3
compound, t-cut and a pair of lump hammers...

>As Richard suggests the base of the studs are sort of splined, as you pull
>the new stud back in with the nut it will pull the splined bit through the
>hole, basically a very tight friction fit with the splines digging in to
>prevent rotation.

aah. i get it now. when you put em in you pull the threaded section
right through from the back. I was thinking they would have to push in
from the outside, not pull in..

>Have you the early small nut's or the later larger ones? I've an rear axle
>at Ma and Pa's that your welcome to that came off Percy. It has the smaller
>nuts/studs. If it's any use it's yours.

later nuts. As far as i can tell studs are 32p from richard! I dont
mind paying that

 

[beamendsltd]

In message <[email protected]>
Tom Woods <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 09:22:31 +0100, beamendsltd
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >You don't need one - just a big hammer. The studs are press-in, so
> >just knock the offending one out, put a new one in and pull it in
> >to place with a wheel nut and something to act as a spacer.
>
> How do you pull the new one in? wouldnt it need something on the back
> or a hole through the middle to do this?
>

Put the stud in the hole, put some washer/oversize nut "on" the stud,
then put the propper nut on and "do it up" - it will pull the stud
into the hub (some Language possibly required

> I did try to press one out with a ball joint seperator and a spacer on
> the back but it didnt want to shift.

Too gentle - this is definately an opportunity for Applied Voilence.

Richard

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
www.radioparadise.com - Good Music, No Vine
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive

 

[Oily]

"rads" <[email protected]> wrote in
message news[email protected]...
> On Sun, 24 Sep 2006 21:47:10 +0100, Tom Woods
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >As an additional problem to my dodgy brakes I was thinking about
> >sorting out my knackered wheel studs.
> >
> >On one hub there is no thread down at the bottom of the stud due to
> >the wheel rattling about on loose nuts.
> >
> >I have tried tightening a new wheel nut onto the stud but the threads
> >in the nut give before the ones on the stud.
> >
> >I know i can fit new studs but it looks to be hard work - so can i buy
> >a die and recut the ones on the studs with them in place on the hub?
> >
> >If so then was size and thread are they?
> >
> >
> >
> If there is "no thread" you have nothing to recut. Much better to just
> belt out the old stud and replace as others have suggested.
>
> David

And you don't have to disturb the hub bearings, just remove the drum, leave
the hub in situ, whack out the offending stud(s) and pull in new ones as
previous posts suggest.

Martin

 

[Tom Woods]

It turns out that fitting new studs into a hub is a 5 minute job!. it
only takes a few whacks with a lump hammer to get them out and pulling
them back through is not exactly taxing!

 

[Lee_D]

Tom Woods <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> It turns out that fitting new studs into a hub is a 5 minute job!. it
> only takes a few whacks with a lump hammer to get them out and pulling
> them back through is not exactly taxing!

Ta da!

Knew you'd enjoy the whacking... most theraputic.

Lee D