Series 3 Kill switch

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
H

Highlander in Yorkshire

Active Member
Posts
85
Location
Yorkshire
Hi there,
Just in the process of getting a ‘72 Series 3 (2.25 petrol) up to some sort of scratch. Now, I have had some interest from the roadside and even been approached to sell the thing..... quite why is beyond me cause it’s a right old state at the mo. So, I’m thinking maybe I should beef up my security a tad. Been searching kill switch ideas on these forums and not much come up so far. As such, could I please ask....
A. Would an ignition coil kill switch do the job?
If so
B. Positive (ignition) or negative (distributor) side?
Thanks in advance and of course, happy to educated in better/other ways to achieve this.
Regards..... Marty
 
Battery terminal isolator is a simple to fit item, just turn to disconnect and remove for security. Also handy if things get a bit warm with old wiring. Find on the fleabay.
 
Hey there Tottot,
Strangely, coincidentally, amazingly, I have one on order that arrives tomorrow. Why you ask? Because my Landy caught fire on Sunday...... I think a sidelight wire getting rubbed by a badly grommeted hole. Booo.... but gave me a fright and took out the wiring loom. So for the future thought, isolate the battery... quick. But... didn’t know the twisty knob came off to leave the battery isolated. Oh I hope i’ve ordered one that does. Find out tomorrow... keep you posted.
 
Highlander in Yorkshire said:
Hi Flossy,
Thanks for that. I have got an older steering wheel lock thing but nowhere near as good as new ones. Do you not think a non starting Landrover would put off an opportunistic thief? I ask, cause I rarely lock it...... keys are fiddly.
Click to expand...
The thing is battery isolators 'keys' are easily available to crooks so they will slow them down but won't stop them. Fit the switch and the coil cut out AND a diskloc .
A diskloc is a good visual deterrant
and encourages them to leave well alone. The krooklock type things can be removed in seconds if you've one of them?
 
Flossie said:
The thing is battery isolators 'keys' are easily available to crooks so they will slow them down but won't stop them. Fit the switch and the coil cut out AND a diskloc .
A diskloc is a good visual deterrant
and encourages them to leave well alone. The krooklock type things can be removed in seconds if you've one of them?
Click to expand...
Grand, thanks and I will do. The switch, positive or negative to the coil?
 
Kill switch will delay joy riders but they will still break in. If you do wire it in it has to be well hidden and so does the wiring as its easy to get the dash out. Manual (old school) fuel taps work, somewhere hidden under the floor or seat, but they will still get 1/4 mile. None of these stop trailers being used. Discloc is a good solution (I use a steering lock) its a visible deterrant and if its parked with the steering on full lock its a pig to move. I have a battery isolator but its only any use if I lock the bonnet (it has a hasp). Plan to fit a tracker.
 
Wow, all this is making me think that you grand people, have seriously thought about this. Food for thought indeed. But..... if I do the switch thing, does the coil thing work? If so, + or - wire?
 
You can fit the switch between either of the + or - wires. Breaking the + wire will cut power to the coil and breaking the - wire will cut power from the coil, either way, it won't start but I'd fit the switch in + wire so if the would be theif abandons their attemp but leaves it hot wired, the coil won't burn out. I never lock mine and always trusted to the fact that it was a b@stard to start but now I've improved it, I remove one of the battery cables, this also stops the battery going dead when it's left for several days without use. I also have the advantage that my daughter parks her car behind my landy so it's blocked in.

Col
 
When I drove old Jags I had the kill switch in the wire from the coil to the dizzy. Used a black wire and ran it down the side of the engine in a way that made it look like the wire went straight from the coil to the dizzy but actually it ran under the loom to the dash and back. My aim was to make it that hot wiring the coil would still not get it to start and it would not be obvious why. On my Series I have a clip on the diesel stop that looks normal but holds it in the stop position.
 
Deter, deflect, delay.

Have visual security (on the vehicle) - make them realise that theft might not be straight forward;
Have visual security where you park it - under a (high) PIR is good - crims don’t want to be seen; (and it can alert you to presence/interest being shown);
Have alarm/tracker/vehicle will be stopped overnight stickers on the vehicle;
Don’t leave attractive items on show in the vehicle;
If you have an external spare wheel/winch add extra security to that.

Crims are likely to recce before theft attempt and more likely not to cover their faces at this point which they will do during a theft attempt so cameras can still be worthwhile, so -
Be alert for any undue interest shown by anyone;
Make them think yours isn’t an easy target and they may go elsewhere;
Install audible security on the obvious approach(es) to the vehicle - PIR/IR trips are cheap and can be effective at deflecting crime and informing you before the vehicle is even attacked;

Park the vehicle where it can be overlooked - at home and when out and about;
At home park near an open (upstairs) window where you sleep;
Park vehicle so it has to be reversed away;
Park with the steering on full lock;
Park with the tx box in neutral;
Block-in with another vehicle and/or other physical barrier (gate chains/posts);

Now consider items in/on the vehicle -
An audible alarm system; - commercial or DIY to horn. Entry and/or passenger compartment volume type;
Fuel supply cut outs;
Ignition system cut outs;
Steering locks (pref that cannot be cut around easily);
Brake (hand/foot) interuptors;

Be careful not to cut all power if your vehicle has an electronic alarm and an ECU.
Ignition and fuel supply cuts outs should not work when the vehicle is in motion!

Don’t leave your vehicle keys on view/in easy reach I.e. window shelf/hall table etc

The longer that crims can be delayed on target the more likelihood that they will abandon their quest and the more time that you have to respond.
 
Colthebrummie said:
You can fit the switch between either of the + or - wires. Breaking the + wire will cut power to the coil and breaking the - wire will cut power from the coil, either way, it won't start but I'd fit the switch in + wire so if the would be theif abandons their attemp but leaves it hot wired, the coil won't burn out. I never lock mine and always trusted to the fact that it was a b@stard to start but now I've improved it, I remove one of the battery cables, this also stops the battery going dead when it's left for several days without use. I also have the advantage that my daughter parks her car behind my landy so it's blocked in.

Col
Click to expand...
Thanks Col,
I managed to speak to my brother this morning who told me the very same thing..... a wee toggle switch in the +wire from ignition to Coil.
Thanks again.
 
Just make sure to use a high quality switch, soldered as opposed to crimped connections, route the cable(s) where they cannot be subjected to physical or heat damage and position the switch where there is no chance of it being accidentally activated.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

S
Trouble with ignition switch wiring
Replies
11
Views
1K
tottot
tottot
D
Series 3 Ex MOD ignition timing
Replies
8
Views
1K
Diggerat35
D
styleruk
2.25 petrol rough idle
2 3 4
Replies
60
Views
3K
styleruk
styleruk
Kevlandau
Battery cable clamp to kill switch
Replies
16
Views
1K
dag019
dag019
A
Engine cutting out 2.25 petrol
Replies
3
Views
1K
Tony Monsantoe
Tony Monsantoe
Back
Top