P38A Kicker lite

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cornishboater

Well-Known Member
Posts
645
Location
Poole, Dorset
Very quick one chaps, until I can get the problem sorted with my ride sensors I have bought a kicker lite, can this be left plugged in continuously?
 
I don't know exactly, but it will be a small battery drain. You'll also need to check the car goes to sleep and stays sleep with it plugged in or you'll have a flat battery in no time
 
I don't know exactly, but it will be a small battery drain. You'll also need to check the car goes to sleep and stays sleep with it plugged in or you'll have a flat battery in no time
I was only thinking of leaving it plugged in while driving and pulling it out when parked up. I just want to make sure it is ok to drive with it plugged in, I had read somewhere that you can.
 
Just found it on eBay. If it only runs once then stalls, as the instructions suggest, i would think it should be fine. But that being the case, why would you want to leave it plugged in?
I have a recurring EAS sensor fault and am awaiting Dunlop rear sensors, it is intermittent but a pain to have to pull over and get the Nano or EASUnlock up and going each time.
 
I have a recurring EAS sensor fault and am awaiting Dunlop rear sensors, it is intermittent but a pain to have to pull over and get the Nano or EASUnlock up and going each time.
The advert seems to suggest the fault is cleared and system ok, or system cleared but fault still present. Sounds like you'd have to unplug and plug back in to clear the error again
But i don't have one, just guessing
 
Very simple, get the car running, great it to the height you want and take the relay out from under the passenger seat. It'll stay put and just put up with the beeping from the dash;)
 
Not at all kerms, it stops the system in its tracks :)
We were out and about at the start of the year when the diaphragm was trapped open and was venting to air. I pulled the relay and stopped the system dead until we were home. :D
 
If yours still drops, there is a leak. Removing the relay removes the power from the ECU so it cannot function.
Not sure what’s up, I have done a complete pressure test with a pressure gauge on all lines with no loss anywhere! All new bags, valve block and compressor rather odd
 
Very strange. It's almost as if there is an extra power feed to the ECU. Does it drop if you leave the rear hatch just cracked open?
Definitely is an odd one Keith, I have posted on a different thread that the EAS inhibit does not function with the doors or tailgate. I had discussed with Marty a long time ago and it seems to be an issue with the rear left passenger door latch/switch. All the other doors and tailgate send a signal to the message centre giving the door open warning but do not freeze the EAS. Those doors also switch the interior and puddle lights on but not the right rear door. It does however lock with no issues with the central locking. I have a rebuilt latch assembly from Marty but haven’t as of yet swapped them over. (My sincere apologies to Marty, I have to send the old one back)
I can’t see that this issue would have any effect on the general operation of the EAS though.
 
Definitely is an odd one Keith, I have posted on a different thread that the EAS inhibit does not function with the doors or tailgate. I had discussed with Marty a long time ago and it seems to be an issue with the rear left passenger door latch/switch. All the other doors and tailgate send a signal to the message centre giving the door open warning but do not freeze the EAS. Those doors also switch the interior and puddle lights on but not the right rear door. It does however lock with no issues with the central locking. I have a rebuilt latch assembly from Marty but haven’t as of yet swapped them over. (My sincere apologies to Marty, I have to send the old one back)
I can’t see that this issue would have any effect on the general operation of the EAS though.
It maybe that some smart arse has jury rigged a feed to the EAS ECU to override the door open inhibit in that case.
 
It maybe that some smart arse has jury rigged a feed to the EAS ECU to override the door open inhibit in that case.
That one I can rule out as it used to work ok and then suddenly stopped and I am the only person that has worked on the car. I am hoping that when I change the latch that it comes back to life!
 
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