blackerutuf
New Member
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- 6
One of my P38’s, 2000 model has had a few transformations.
In the hope that other owners, may not become too disillusioned with some of the niggles that these motors possess, I thought I would share them, and encourage others to keep em going.
First off, after 4 x 4.6 v8 engines I thought I’d stop the overheating problems, to do so I had to find a solid block that didn’t turn the coolant to steam. That done I got rid of the thermostat and keep the coolant below 80 degrees C at all times, getting the temps up in winter the old way with a blind.
I also changed the coolant for my own blend of non toxic non corrosive type, good to minus 10, but with milder winters, the last 2 years have been OK.
I next turned to the ignition coils, as you will all know they live in the lonely, miserable cavity behind the block up-to the bulkhead, I moved them to the top of the engine, and will move them again to the off side near to the fuse box, extending the HT cables with high temp silicon, copper wired, works just fine. I also use standard NGK plugs. The car runs 99% time on treated lpg. The plugs have been in now for 40k and were second hand when I put them in.
The lpg system is the Blos single point, no ecu, no computer = no hassle.
I also run a small quantity of water injection, (when I remember to fill the tank), this helps keep ex valves a little cooler.
During the 15 years I have owned the car, I, like most others have had my fair share of EAS problems, so I decided it had to go.
Now I know what you may be thinking, he’s put coils under? No no no, I simply got rid of the computer scatter brained control system, and developed my own valve .block and controls on the dash board in the same position as the originals. The original RR compressor is really quite a good pump, and when in good nick develops serious air pressure, its the pressure that counts more so than displacement. I also incorporated a circuit to allow 2 pumps to run together, to give quick boost or to replace a failed pump.
I run the system to give equal (side to side) pressure on each axle, front and rear set at different pressures, and a digital pressure gauge just under the cluster to the left. My personal reasons for wanting to run like this have so far been just right.
I used Wade compression fittings throughout, there isn’t an ‘o’ ring, gasket or seal anywhere now, nor the troublesome push fits, the only ones that remain are in the desiccant dryer. But being on the compressor side doesn’t matter as I am going to install a dump valve, so that the compressor does not attempt to start on load.
I also incorporated Schrader valves into the new block, to the 2 live circuits just in case all fails, I can then still pump up the suspension with a 12 volt battery driven compressor.
This latest project started out as a bit of lark with a few push fit tees, but developed into a full blown mod.
Hope you found this interesting, try and keep the old girls going, they are basically good build quality.
In the hope that other owners, may not become too disillusioned with some of the niggles that these motors possess, I thought I would share them, and encourage others to keep em going.
First off, after 4 x 4.6 v8 engines I thought I’d stop the overheating problems, to do so I had to find a solid block that didn’t turn the coolant to steam. That done I got rid of the thermostat and keep the coolant below 80 degrees C at all times, getting the temps up in winter the old way with a blind.
I also changed the coolant for my own blend of non toxic non corrosive type, good to minus 10, but with milder winters, the last 2 years have been OK.
I next turned to the ignition coils, as you will all know they live in the lonely, miserable cavity behind the block up-to the bulkhead, I moved them to the top of the engine, and will move them again to the off side near to the fuse box, extending the HT cables with high temp silicon, copper wired, works just fine. I also use standard NGK plugs. The car runs 99% time on treated lpg. The plugs have been in now for 40k and were second hand when I put them in.
The lpg system is the Blos single point, no ecu, no computer = no hassle.
I also run a small quantity of water injection, (when I remember to fill the tank), this helps keep ex valves a little cooler.
During the 15 years I have owned the car, I, like most others have had my fair share of EAS problems, so I decided it had to go.
Now I know what you may be thinking, he’s put coils under? No no no, I simply got rid of the computer scatter brained control system, and developed my own valve .block and controls on the dash board in the same position as the originals. The original RR compressor is really quite a good pump, and when in good nick develops serious air pressure, its the pressure that counts more so than displacement. I also incorporated a circuit to allow 2 pumps to run together, to give quick boost or to replace a failed pump.
I run the system to give equal (side to side) pressure on each axle, front and rear set at different pressures, and a digital pressure gauge just under the cluster to the left. My personal reasons for wanting to run like this have so far been just right.
I used Wade compression fittings throughout, there isn’t an ‘o’ ring, gasket or seal anywhere now, nor the troublesome push fits, the only ones that remain are in the desiccant dryer. But being on the compressor side doesn’t matter as I am going to install a dump valve, so that the compressor does not attempt to start on load.
I also incorporated Schrader valves into the new block, to the 2 live circuits just in case all fails, I can then still pump up the suspension with a 12 volt battery driven compressor.
This latest project started out as a bit of lark with a few push fit tees, but developed into a full blown mod.
Hope you found this interesting, try and keep the old girls going, they are basically good build quality.
