K series 1.8 engine replacement

K series 1.8 · Jan 15, 2019

Hi all I have a 1.8 k series freelander facelift and I do love it but I know it has issues with the head blowing alot. I'm just wondering if this engine ( Rover K Series 1.8t Turbo Zr Zs Metro Zt 45 25 ) will swap over without any problems using original freelander gearbox, and also would i still be able to connect the rear prop for 4x4. I have searched this thread before but had no definite answers. Can anyone shed light on this for me... I have included a pic of the engine in question.

Nodge68 · Jan 18, 2019

All 1.8 series engines are physically identical (there are differences in ancillary components). However all Ks will fit the gearbox you have. So you can fit whatever engine you can find. However in my experience, it's better to repair what you have, rather than replacing it for something with unknown issues.

K series 1.8 · Jan 18, 2019

Nodge68 said:
All 1.8 series engines are physically identical (there are differences in ancillary components). However all Ks will fit the gearbox you have. So you can fit whatever engine you can find. However in my experience, it's better to repair what you have, rather than replacing it for something with unknown issues.

Thanks for your response. So you would say get the mls gasket and upgraded bolts and replace as the previous owner has put a switch in the cab for a fan for I can only assume extra cooling to elevate the head blowing as often.

Nodge68 · Jan 18, 2019

K series 1.8 said:
So you would say get the mls gasket and upgraded bolts and replace

I don't like the MLS gasket, as the cylinder liners need to be installed in a very tight tolerance window for the MLS gasket to work. I prefer to use the latest Payen BW750 gasket with blue polymer seals.

K series 1.8 said:
the previous owner has put a switch in the cab for a fan for I can only assume extra cooling

Mods like that will actually increase the likelihood of HG failure.

K series 1.8 · Jan 18, 2019

Nodge68 said:
I don't like the MLS gasket, as the cylinder liners need to be installed in a very tight tolerance window for the MLS gasket to work. I prefer to use the latest Payen BW750 gasket with blue polymer seals.

Mods like that will actually increase the likelihood of HG failure.

Thanks again for your reply so the Payen gasket is the way to go then? And would you suggest I remove the extra cooling or just don't use?

Nodge68 · Jan 18, 2019

K series 1.8 said:
Thanks again for your reply so the Payen gasket is the way to go then?

That's what I'd use, but you must make sure the head is hard and flat, or the HG will fail simply again.

K series 1.8 said:
And would you suggest I remove the extra cooling or just don't use

Return the cooling fan to operate under ECU control, as LR intended.

K series 1.8 · Jan 18, 2019

Nodge68 said:
That's what I'd use, but you must make sure the head is hard and flat, or the HG will fail simply again.

Return the cooling fan to operate under ECU control, as LR intended.

Hard and flat? Can you explain as I'm not a mechanic I do what I feel capable of doing and leave the rest to the experts

Nodge68 · Jan 18, 2019

K series 1.8 said:
Hard and flat? Can you explain as I'm not a mechanic

The K series uses a special heat treatment on the head. This makes it very hard, so it can withstand the huge clamping forces the engine design dictates.

What can happen, is the head can go soft, as a result of it being overheated. Once it's gone soft, then the head is effectively scrap, as the gasket's fire rings slowly dig into the head surface, causing it to fail again quickly.

You'll get an idea of the hardness, when your head is removed. If you can see an indentation where the fire ring has pressed into the face, then the head is soft, and a replacement will be needed.

K series 1.8 · Jan 18, 2019

Nodge68 said:
The K series uses a special heat treatment on the head. This makes it very hard, so it can withstand the huge clamping forces the engine design dictates.

What can happen, is the head can go soft, as a result of it being overheated. Once it's gone soft, then the head is effectively scrap, as the gasket's fire rings slowly dig into the head surface, causing it to fail again quickly.

You'll get an idea of the hardness, when your head is removed. If you can see an indentation where the fire ring has pressed into the face, then the head is soft, and a replacement will be needed.

Awesome mate that has answered that

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