I've bought a duff..

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Kerbus24

Member
Posts
15
Location
Isle of Wight
Good afternoon peoples..
2 weeks ago I went to Devon and picked up a 200 disco and fell in love with it. Even though it ran rough it made the 140 mile journey home. Few days go past and it starts chucking clouds of white smoke/steam out the back to the point where it covers both carriages of the road and everyone stops cos they can't see! So once at my workshop I stripped the head off (very easy as 7 head bolts where hand tight!) i found pots 2 and 4 filled with water and gasket blown out.. Not a problem i thought but i also founds cracks in the head and 4 valve caps missing! No wonder it runs rough. Now my problem is i need the motor for work so for now im putting the head back on with new gasket and Vale caps. Now different people say different things about this, i should be seetting clearances to 0.2 cold and run up to temp and let it cool and check again? When i get the time nearer to xmas I'll tig the head up properly.
 

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0.2mm is correct, set when cold. Fingers crossed a new head gasket and proper torqueing of the head solves most of your problems. It depends how deep the cracks are and where they are.
 
Kerbus24 said:
Good afternoon peoples..
2 weeks ago I went to Devon and picked up a 200 disco and fell in love with it. Even though it ran rough it made the 140 mile journey home. Few days go past and it starts chucking clouds of white smoke/steam out the back to the point where it covers both carriages of the road and everyone stops cos they can't see! So once at my workshop I stripped the head off (very easy as 7 head bolts where hand tight!) i found pots 2 and 4 filled with water and gasket blown out.. Not a problem i thought but i also founds cracks in the head and 4 valve caps missing! No wonder it runs rough. Now my problem is i need the motor for work so for now im putting the head back on with new gasket and Vale caps. Now different people say different things about this, i should be seetting clearances to 0.2 cold and run up to temp and let it cool and check again? When i get the time nearer to xmas I'll tig the head up properly.
Click to expand...
How many miles are on the engine?
 
The head on my 90 is cracked and has been for years, doesnt use any fluids.
I reckon theres lot of 200 out there running quite happily with cracks in their heads unknown to their owners.

Normally the gaskets fail at the back and only leak combustion gases the giveaway is the chuffing noise.
I would say yours has been stuck back together by a plonker and will have loads of life left to give when screwed back together correctly.
 
lynall said:
The head on my 90 is cracked and has been for years, doesnt use any fluids.
I reckon theres lot of 200 out there running quite happily with cracks in their heads unknown to their owners.

Normally the gaskets fail at the back and only leak combustion gases the giveaway is the chuffing noise.
I would say yours has been stuck back together by a plonker and will have loads of life left to give when screwed back together correctly.
Click to expand...

Right, today ive put the new valve caps on, cleaned everything etc and refitted rocker arm etc and went to start.. But it didn't want to! Turned it over some more with half throttle and it slowly came to life (very rough idle and missfire on throttle) she also bellowed white smoke everywhere wich smelt like unburnt derv so im thinking its fuel/air problem, lift pump possibly? Standing by the engine it sounds like its ticking over nicely but put your head down by the exhaust and it sounds like a bloody train! Any ides?
 
Kerbus24 said:
Right, today ive put the new valve caps on, cleaned everything etc and refitted rocker arm etc and went to start.. But it didn't want to! Turned it over some more with half throttle and it slowly came to life (very rough idle and missfire on throttle) she also bellowed white smoke everywhere wich smelt like unburnt derv so im thinking its fuel/air problem, lift pump possibly? Standing by the engine it sounds like its ticking over nicely but put your head down by the exhaust and it sounds like a bloody train! Any ides?
Click to expand...

Did you adjust the valve clearances?
If so what did you set them to?
Have you checked the inj pump timing?

The 200 should pretty much burst into life even when its totally shagged!
 
lynall said:
Did you adjust the valve clearances?
If so what did you set them to?
Have you checked the inj pump timing?

The 200 should pretty much burst into life even when its totally shagged!
Click to expand...

Valve clearances were set to .2 with engine cold. Timing pins will be here in next day or 2 so will check that when I can. Ordered new timing belt kit, thermostat, injector sealing washers, water pump, leak off pipe, fuel filter and few other bits so gunna swap all that out and set everything back up to how it should be and see how it behaves. Fingers crossed it'll fire up and run lovely!
 
Another question.. I've got 2 snapped studs in manifold to turbo and will be replacing them this weekend but it appears they've been attacked by the previous moronic owner as they're rounded. But what's the best way to get to the back left nut (looking at turbo from pas wing). Apart from spraying wurth rust off on everything prior to attacking.
 
Kerbus24 said:
Another question.. I've got 2 snapped studs in manifold to turbo and will be replacing them this weekend but it appears they've been attacked by the previous moronic owner as they're rounded. But what's the best way to get to the back left nut (looking at turbo from pas wing). Apart from spraying wurth rust off on everything prior to attacking.
Click to expand...

Ive never had any luck with that wurth rostoff stuff.
Turbo to manifold bolts are a toss on most vehicles.
Stick a pic up someone will have an idea.
 
Right guys.. she's back up and running although a bit tappy but none the less it's back in daily use. Got the manifold bolts out with oxy/acetaline and brute force! So why did it all of a sudden run like a pig? Well IP timing was out by a fair bit so corrected that and fired it up. Much better but still not 100% so next step was to check/ place fuel lines/ leak off pipes, again much better but I still wasn't happy. So swapped the lift pump and I was then happy! So a combination of things were to blame. Thanks to all who threw suggestions at me Next step is to sort the lash in both diffs and swap all drive flanges out for new. Anyone got any advice regarding diff lash? Done em before but every day is a school day
 
Kerbus24 said:
Anyone got any advice regarding diff lash?
Click to expand...

Ashcroft transmissions have a few vids on the tube of them re-conditioning diffs with new bearings etc., IIRC, they mention the recommended side float in the crown wheel assembly.....
 
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