Issue while turning

Hi guys a girls, I’m new here and need some help before I pour money into a defender.

so to start I haven’t bought the defender yet but it’s an 06reg td5 defender 90. Seems to be in pretty good shape and it’s solid underneath as is the bulk head and all the usual rotty places, it’s covered 130k in it’s life and has been used by a company so service history is okay and it’s history checks out as do the MOT’s.

It’s up for 13k but I’ve managed to get 3200 for my current car in part ex and also managed to get 1000 knocked off the price as the interior is tatty and the speedo doesn’t work,

I can see everyone thinking now “so what’s the issue”
Well I took it for a decent test drive yesterday was driving it for about 20mins so not to bad!

the guy who took came with me from the garage was sound and did tell me that he thinks there’s an issue with the rear diff which I did notice as as I was driving, pulling away and changing gear a knocking/banging noice from the rear? Not sure what this could be so that’s my first question.

secondly while taking it out of the forecourt I noticed at low speed while turning left or right the vehicle struggled to move and sounded like it was locking at tyre up on the front? It was like in my current car a Nissan Navara when engaged in 4wd on a hard surface it struggles to turn, that’s the best way I can describe it!!
Any help and advice appreciated I just don’t want to buy it then it not be drivable if you know what I mean, it will be my daily driver as well as a little project/maintenance toy to tinker with on the weekend.
Thanks in advance

The 4wd system will give the same symptoms as your Navara if the centre Diff in the gearbox is stuck in lock position.
Common rear clonk's, UJ on the way out, A frame ball joint failing, Just general wear in the system.
To test if centre diff is stuck or free jack up one front wheel. If it turns by hand then diff is free [ open ] No turn then the centre diff is engaged with the gear lever or is stuck.

Okay cool I didn’t actually test the to see if the diff lock was engaged on the test drive do you think it’s worth going back and having another look? See if it’s engaged and if it will disengage with the lever?
I’m not to fussed about the clonk on the back end it’s more the turning issues I’m concerned about.
Thanks

The inner tyre wall may be catching on the radius arms on full lock, that's just an adjustment. Conks on the back are common and the usual suspects have been mentioned and easy to fix.

Yes, check the diff lock lever, there should be a warning lamp on the dash for diff lock engaged but maybe the lamp or wiring is duff. It can take a few yards of driving for the diff to unlock inside the box after the cab lever has been moved.
Not familiar with TD5 stuff though.

So let’s just say for arguments sake, the issue on the front is the diff lock, is this an easy fix? And even with this issue do you think it’s worth the money £9500?

I'm not familiar with the TD5 as I've mentioned but on earlier models the linkage outside the box does seize up if not used regularly which they often aren't. Clean and lube and you're good to go.

I'd check the tyres are catching first then the wheel up check and if it's in difflock and won't come out via the cab lever then get the garage to operate it/free it off from underneath, assuming of course that TD5 is the same as earlier models.
Taking the gearbox tunnel off gives good access but can be a faff for the garage so they could fiddle from below to save them time, easier on a lift of course.

The td5 system is much the same as previous models, the lock operating lever/rod is not to bad to get at from underneath.
Worth the money ? The main thing to look at is the condition of the chassis and bulkhead, major repairs here eat up the lolly. Other items are mostly spanner jobs.

As all said in posts above the mechanical side is reasonably straight forward to sort out the likely problems. But you will learn some new swear words along the way. I'd be more concerned about the speedo not working, not sure if its electronic or not - worth finding out. Does the mile-o-meter work? If not how long has it not been clocking the miles up? It might have done half a million miles . You can do a check on the DVLA website for mot history and get some idea of the life its had, and might give some clues as to the current issues. It will also give the recorded mileage at each test and give some idea as to the real mileage it might have covered.

Yes it's an electronic speedometer on the TD5
Also you shouldn't drive it on the road if the diff lock is stuck on, that may be why it's clonking from the rear, the stress on the transmission may have broken something.

Can you post up a couple of pictures of the Land Rover? It's probably worth the money if the bodywork is clean, but it also depends on what version it is.
Does it have seats in the back, and windows? Or does it look like a van?

Are you buying from a garage?

for that money I would want it free from known faults tbh or walk away.

have you looked at any others?

@Ginger, as per @flat , for this buy price the Land Rover should be mechanically flawless. If not, walk away and buy another...there are plenty out there.

Worth looking on www.carandclassic.co.uk for cleaner/proven mileage units for sale. See here https://www.carandclassic.co.uk/cla...500&max_price=15000&country=&region=&S=Search

lf it's a 2006 TD5 it depends what model it is. If it's a Station Wagon or XS and in good condition then in the current market £12,000 is cheap.
The transmission issues can be sorted. What l want to know is the condition of the bodywork.
Any photos? Value could be anything between £8,000 and £16,000