Is it worth it???

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J

Jon

Guest
Hi All,

Just trying to decide whether or not to replace the chassis on my 1992
90 200 Tdi or sell it and get another - possibly a 1995 / 1996
300Tdi??? The problems as I see them are:
1. Is it economically viable?
2. Is No 1 worth thinking about?!
3. Am I better off mending what I know is otherwise good
4. Time & Space - Have i enough spare of both!

Ive already plated is a few times for the MOT (last year) and now its
generally thin in more places than its not. Key areas for concern at
the moment are around where the rear A frame attaches (chassis rails
are de-laminating here) and similarly under the seatbox forward to
towards the bulkhead.

Rear Cross member is OK, Engine is good although its done 145,000
miles. Gearbox and T. Box are OK (though I would probably put recon
units in whilst they where out). Axles, diff's, suspension etc are
good. Body work is structurally in good nick.

From a time point of view - would anybody like to have a stab at how
long it would take to do it on an evening and weekend basis?

Also, does the MOT cause the biggest worry to a soft chassis or
off-roading? To some degree what the tester doesnt see he isnt
bothered about. Harsh off-roading however will put stress and
torsional effects into any chassis - hi-lighting any weakness.

Thoughs / advice / experiances please.


Thanks
Jon

 

"MVP" <mr.nice@*nospam*softhome.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:22:08 +0100, Jon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>Just trying to decide whether or not to replace the chassis on my 1992
>>90 200 Tdi or sell it and get another - possibly a 1995 / 1996
>>300Tdi??? The problems as I see them are:
>> 1. Is it economically viable?


Not if you pay someone to do the work.


>> 2. Is No 1 worth thinking about?!


You're doing this already ;-)

>> 3. Am I better off mending what I know is otherwise good


I would break it for spares. What you know is that the chassis is
*dangerously* compromised on a 13 year old vehicle. What I cannot quite
understand is how it got to this state in such a relatively short time. My
hard worked '84 example has a pristine chassis apart from one or two mid
mounted outriggers getting a bit thin. Maybe its the cow**** that preserves
it? LOL



>> 4. Time & Space - Have i enough spare of both!
>>


Make space! As it is, it is worth almost bugger all. If it is given a new
chassis then at least you could use it for a good while to justify the cost
to yourself. If it is broken for spares then at least you will eventually
clear a good income from it if you can be bothered.

Don't be emotional when making a decision about a mass produced lump of
metal which can be easily replaced by something better.

Huw


 
Yep, agree with all the above.

When you replace the chassis you are effectively breaking the vehicle
anyway. So if all the other bits are new and known good, a new
chassis might be a better option than another second-hand vehicle with
unknown problems (and you can guarantee there would be _some_, you
just don't know what).

If, as I suspect, the rest of the vehicle is 13 years old too then cut
your losses and upgrade the whole lot. It will make more financial
sense. If you want the challenge and a vehicle to keep forever in a
permanent state of rolling restoration, personalised and as a matter
of pride, stick a galvanised chassis on it. Budget for a new bulkhead
too, as that is probably just as rotten as the chassis. Then add
another 25-50% for all the other bits you are going to find wanting
during the rebuild.

I paid 2 grand for my S2 rechassis job. Was it worth it? Not even
nearly. Is the vehicle now a wonderful example of a Series Landy?
Nope. Would I do it again? In an instant. That's Land Rovers for
you....





--

Tim Hobbs

'58 Series 2 88" aka "Stig"
'77 101FC Ambulance aka "Burrt"
'03 Volvo V70
 
On or around Tue, 19 Apr 2005 08:29:20 +0100, "Huw"
<hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:
>
>I would break it for spares. What you know is that the chassis is
>*dangerously* compromised on a 13 year old vehicle. What I cannot quite
>understand is how it got to this state in such a relatively short time. My
>hard worked '84 example has a pristine chassis apart from one or two mid
>mounted outriggers getting a bit thin. Maybe its the cow**** that preserves
>it? LOL


I dunno - I had to patch my 110 (C-plate) before it's last MOT with me.
Back main rails, where they have that silly dip in 'em.


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
Once, when the secrets of science were the jealously guarded property of
a small priesthood, the common man had no hope of mastering their arcane
complexities. Years of study in musty classrooms were prerequisite to
obtaining even a dim, incoherent knowledge of science.
Today, all that has changed: a dim, incoherent knowledge of science is
available to anyone. - Tom Weller, Science Made Stupid, 1986
 
I put a galvanised chassis on my 1986 90. Bulkhead needed a few minor
repairs. Worth the cost and effort? Definately. Should last years.
Have a look: www.richardsrovers.co.uk
Richard


"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> Just trying to decide whether or not to replace the chassis on my 1992
> 90 200 Tdi or sell it and get another - possibly a 1995 / 1996
> 300Tdi??? The problems as I see them are:
> 1. Is it economically viable?
> 2. Is No 1 worth thinking about?!
> 3. Am I better off mending what I know is otherwise good
> 4. Time & Space - Have i enough spare of both!
>
> Ive already plated is a few times for the MOT (last year) and now its
> generally thin in more places than its not. Key areas for concern at
> the moment are around where the rear A frame attaches (chassis rails
> are de-laminating here) and similarly under the seatbox forward to
> towards the bulkhead.
>
> Rear Cross member is OK, Engine is good although its done 145,000
> miles. Gearbox and T. Box are OK (though I would probably put recon
> units in whilst they where out). Axles, diff's, suspension etc are
> good. Body work is structurally in good nick.
>
> From a time point of view - would anybody like to have a stab at how
> long it would take to do it on an evening and weekend basis?
>
> Also, does the MOT cause the biggest worry to a soft chassis or
> off-roading? To some degree what the tester doesnt see he isnt
> bothered about. Harsh off-roading however will put stress and
> torsional effects into any chassis - hi-lighting any weakness.
>
> Thoughs / advice / experiances please.
>
>
> Thanks
> Jon
>



 
>
>>> 3. Am I better off mending what I know is otherwise good

>
>I would break it for spares. What you know is that the chassis is
>*dangerously* compromised on a 13 year old vehicle. What I cannot quite
>understand is how it got to this state in such a relatively short time. My
>hard worked '84 example has a pristine chassis apart from one or two mid
>mounted outriggers getting a bit thin. Maybe its the cow**** that preserves
>it? LOL
>


A problem I have is that I dont know how bad they can get before they
are buggered!

I replaced one of the front outriggers last year for the MOT and added
a patch to the underside of one or the rails. I am fairly certain it
will want another patch on the other side this June / July for the
MOT. Appart from that there are no holes in it, but it does sound
quite thin as you tap along the rails.

What would be good is if you guys that know about these things tell me
it should last another 10 years "sounding thin"!!!

How long should / would you expect a UK based 90 chassis last??


Also, is there a more preffered supplier - design-a-chassis or
Richards??



Thanks
Jon
 
After rolling about underneath and a god amount of prodding, feeling
and looking at the chassis yesterday I went to the local MOT place and
asked the guy to take a look.

After more prodding and poking he announced, to my relief, that he
will be happy with 2 patches (one largeish one and a little one).

So in the interest of "our" bank account the chassis will remain
patched for another year, or at least until it has to be changed.

Thanks for the advice though. If / when this subject comes up again,
assumin all thing being equal, I think I will change the chassis and
keep what I have - it would seem a shame to let someone else get a
generally bloody good, well kept landrover with just a crap chassis.

Thanks.
Jon



On Mon, 18 Apr 2005 09:22:08 +0100, Jon <[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi All,
>
>Just trying to decide whether or not to replace the chassis on my 1992
>90 200 Tdi or sell it and get another - possibly a 1995 / 1996
>300Tdi??? The problems as I see them are:
> 1. Is it economically viable?
> 2. Is No 1 worth thinking about?!
> 3. Am I better off mending what I know is otherwise good
> 4. Time & Space - Have i enough spare of both!
>
>Ive already plated is a few times for the MOT (last year) and now its
>generally thin in more places than its not. Key areas for concern at
>the moment are around where the rear A frame attaches (chassis rails
>are de-laminating here) and similarly under the seatbox forward to
>towards the bulkhead.
>
>Rear Cross member is OK, Engine is good although its done 145,000
>miles. Gearbox and T. Box are OK (though I would probably put recon
>units in whilst they where out). Axles, diff's, suspension etc are
>good. Body work is structurally in good nick.
>
>From a time point of view - would anybody like to have a stab at how
>long it would take to do it on an evening and weekend basis?
>
>Also, does the MOT cause the biggest worry to a soft chassis or
>off-roading? To some degree what the tester doesnt see he isnt
>bothered about. Harsh off-roading however will put stress and
>torsional effects into any chassis - hi-lighting any weakness.
>
>Thoughs / advice / experiances please.
>
>
>Thanks
>Jon


 
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