Injector Stuck? video..

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joe27979

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,354
Location
west Norfolk
So,
You probably remember me on about having a leaking injector...brought a new leak off rig and a few injector washers just incase.
Fitted new leak off rig today, all ok except the last bloody one!! couldnt get my torque wrench at the back of engine so gave it just what i thought and ziiiimm, bolt sheared!! DOH!!

Oh ****e, now I have half a friggin bolt in my injector - panic struck in!

Looked up a couple of old threads on here (thanks all!) didnt have a slide hammer or a spare fitting to fabricate one so i resorted to the rocking method with penetration fluid, see video link:

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S120_-kiFbQ"]YouTube- Defender 300TDI Injector Removal[/nomedia]

Managed to get it out eventually, had to twist a bit as corrosion had set in around the waist of the injector body.

attached are pics of the injector removed - not bad for the milleage do you think? Wrapped some rag round an old pipe and gave the bore a good cleaning (luckily sealing washer came out stuck to injector)

blew out all gunk with air gun, cleaned up injector and added copperslip to its body, dropped copper washer in ridge side up and then tightened injector to 25NM - this right?

Anyway put it all back together and ran her up - no leaks and sounds gucci.

Just though id post about it, your posts helped me out so i hope this helps someone else out ;)
 

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I had a similar issue on my Series III - although I've got a bit more space to work with but the injectors are round thus can't get a spanner on to twist.

Similar method but what we did was lathe down a couple of rods to the diameter to fit into the two mounting holes on the injector and then weld those onto a piece of scaffolding pipe. We could then get a plumber's wrench around the top of the pipe and use that to twist it. Worked very well.

Another interesting tool we created was for getting the pads onto the drum brakes which consisted of a chain-link welded onto a long bar and a slot cut into it. Simply slot the pad into the chain-link and pull. First pad took 6h to get on (tough bloody springs) the remaining 7 took 30 minutes...
 
If you'd taken off the rocker cover, it would have been much easier. also, you took out the injectors, but you've no idea if they was any good before putting them back in with new washers.
If you didn't want to pay to have them checked, you could have pulled the pipes back a little just enough to be able to couple an injector onto one pipe without the tip being in the hole, then turn over the engine and watch it *fire* if it squirts or dribbles rather than firing out jets of mist, it's knackered and needs refurbing.
When you put the injectors back into the cylinder head, you don't just drop the washers in then hope for the best that you locate them properly with the injector, all you need to do is put a small blob of grease on the injector nut where the washer comes against, put the washer onto it and it'll hold in place whilst you fit the injector to the cyl head.
 
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