In Tank Fuel Pump - Can you hear it?

Hi all,

Please don't burn me for this simple ask

I've got a 2001 Freelander TD4 with 111,189 miles on it, had her from new.
The engine malfunction light came on yesterday, although I had noticed she wasn't starting up too easy.

I can hear the front pump (under bonnet) operating, I fitted a new one last year, but I can't hear anything from the one under the back seat (defo back seat).

My question is; should I be able to hear it run? How do I check its faulty before I go shopping on fleabay?

Many thanks for an support you can give

Cheers, Mark

At that mileage the pump is probably past its best. Get an assistant to turn on ignition whilst you listen either underneath the vehicle with a screwdriver resting against the tank and the handle by your ear (obviously make sure gear in neutral in case said assistant turns key too far) or more safely lift rear carpet and listen at the pump access plate.

Yes, you should be able to hear it.

Having just changed both pumps on mine (TD4 2001) I would suggest you verify there is fuel getting/not getting to the under bonnet pump by removing either the fuel pipe that connects to the multi-connector near the front wheel arch (see my other thread for pics) or the pipe that comes from that multi-point connection and joins at the under bonnet fuel pump.

When you have disconnected one of the pipes simply turn on the ignition (do not turn over the engine) and see if fuel flows through from the rear.

I was lucky in that I was able to borrow the correct tool to remove the in tank pump. It can be removed using a block of wood and tapping the screw top off, but it is a bit of bugger to refit without it and there is a danger of breaking/snapping one of the multi connectors if you slip.

Thanks for your replies...

The pump makes 'some' noise - seriously milli seconds then nowt at all. When I turn the ign off i then hear a little slurping noise. A assume the pump should make some noise considering its job?

Harold - my multipipes are the same as ours - do the plastic connectors just turn?
Great photos and write up btw

no need to get under just fold the driver side back seat forward and undo carpet or even leave carpet at that milage it has picked up sediment out of the tank and the filter on the pump can be taken of and cleaned as I did with mine but be warned if it is coated with sediment then it will have been pumping hard and will not be long before it is finished so put a new one in do not get stuck hope this helps

do the plastic connectors just turn?

Click to expand...

On mine the easy-connect joints are a pull/push fit. You simply need to 'squeeze' either side of the pipe connection to free the plastic clip 'lock' -I used long-nosed pliers to hold the plastic in and 'unlock' the connection. It's easier than it may read....

However, do be very careful, when you have 'unlocked/unclipped the joint pull the pipe out 'square' so as not to break any of the (possibly) brittle plastic: they are a bugger to replace and quite expensive.

Here is the new filter and filter tool





And this is the new filter replaced - Note there are two 'easy-connect' connections (easy to break if you use a hammer and block of wood to remove the filter) an electrical connector and a 'slip-on' pipe which is probably a breather pipe.

Hi Harold,

Thanks for the photos and advice. Question: Did you got for genuine parts or after market - what made you choose?

Happy Christmas, Mark

Mark, get a new land rover pump. I've had two pumps go, the first one completely and the second one intermittently. You can always hear the pump fire up when you turn the ignition on as it whines.
Pony

Looks like something out of a porta potty!!

I went for after-market - but definitely not Britpart (in fact, the part is the same as is supplied to Land Rover). The brand was recommended by the Garage that lent me the tool: +2yrs warranty.

pony said:

Mark, get a new land rover pump. I've had two pumps go, the first one completely and the second one intermittently. You can always hear the pump fire up when you turn the ignition on as it whines.
Pony

Click to expand...

Hi guys sorry to jump in the thread only just joined forum and have the same problem,
car would not start for the other half last wednesday, aa man came out and suspected that it was the pump in the tank,

he banged the underside of the tank and got it going so she could get home,
other half wont drive it now till it's fixed, (properly)
however it hasn't done it again,
i've looked in the history and it had a new/replacement?? pump in the tank 3 yrs ago (previous owner) bill total was £198 fitted i would guess that this would be a pattern part not OM at that price, so is it possible that it could have broken already and be an intermittern fault?

One last thing i have been informed that if you replace 1 pump then you should replace the other as a matter of course, is this correct???

any help/advise appreciated

thanks inadvance
baz

Not sure about the 'fit both pumps' idea - I did both of mine simply through ignorance.

My view is "if it aint broke don't fix it"...

I replaced the front pump last year, will be replacing the in tank pump as soon as the Ebay people come back from the Hols. Landrover quoted me £340 just for the pump! I'm going to take my changes and buy it on Fleabay for £75. Sometimes you get what you pay and sometimes you are getting your pants pulled down!!!!!!!!

Whilst mooching around the forum I've read about changing the intercooler pipes, cleaning up the EGR and replacing the Crankcase Breather filter with a BMW oil separator (£20) modification. I've done all three while I wait for the in tank pump.

I can hear 'something' from the in tank pump but only just. Can anyone describe the noise coming from theirs please? volume ' length etc

Cheers, Mark

Hi changed both my pumps today, the front one is a bosh and the in tank one is a landrover one, paid just under £300 for the two.

when turning the ignition on i can here the rear pump purging for a few seconds, like a drrrrrr sort of sound if that makes sense.

i also got a surprise when the aux diesel heater sprang to life, filling the garage with plumes of smoke, not sure why this happened, it did clear and then turned it's self off.

mind you i have read on hear somewhere that if you take a certain fuse out the heater resets it's self, and i had the battery off for an hour or so as i was trying to sort the horn out, so i guess thats the same as removing a fuse.

cheers Baz

Only me (again)

I've ordered a in tank fuel pump, so hoping that will solve the problem. Am I 'right' in thinking the engine warning light will go out if that was the problem?

The reason I'm asking is; started reading (oh Lord) about diagnostic software and 'unlocking?' codes and got worried that the vehicles software needs 'reseting or something'

Thanks for all your advice - int the internet great

Cheers, Mark

which engin warning light? let me say when my pump failed the engin warning light did come on but went of after I turned ignition of and then back on

The one that looks like an engine with a ! next to it.

that should go of once the new pump is primed
hope this helps

Ok, I've been busy, I've changed intercooler pipes, cleaned up the EGR, replaced the Crankcase Breather filter with a BMW oil separator (£20) modification, replaced the fuel filter and replaced the in tank fuel pump. Freelander is moving like its a pup again, BUT the engine management light is still on.

Spoke to my regular garage and they said the fault codes will need to be reset and they will do for free - so off I pops.

Anyways, the codes have been cleared except one... the bulb itself is faulty (fault code suggested) however its a surface mounted bulb so can't be replaced?

The auto Elec says he's seen this before on many models - bascially the light has never been oerated in anger. The light illuminated due to fuel problems but won't now switch off?

So its just been blacked off with some masking... What do you reckon ?

Cheers for any steerage

Mark