Ignition timing - your view's

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doobie

doobie

Active Member
Posts
807
Location
North East of Scotland
Evening all,

just the other day i set the static timing on my long suffering series 2a, it was backfiring and not idling very well before deciding not to ever start again so i thought it needed some tlc.

Now, i was planning to set the dinamic timing once the beast fired up but with the static timing set to a perviously tip-ex'ed and pointer on the flywheel the engine is now running sweet as a pancake (or is that nut...) i've never had it running as good and it even starts first go!!! my question is; is it worth fannying on further with the strobe to get the timing nailled or can i leave as is?? i know timing a series motor is a bit of an art form!!

my previous attempts at ignition timing were less than sucessful hence my reluctance for further "fannying on" :D

cheers
 
doobie said:
Evening all,

just the other day i set the static timing on my long suffering series 2a, it was backfiring and not idling very well before deciding not to ever start again so i thought it needed some tlc.

Now, i was planning to set the dinamic timing once the beast fired up but with the static timing set to a perviously tip-ex'ed and pointer on the flywheel the engine is now running sweet as a pancake (or is that nut...) i've never had it running as good and it even starts first go!!! my question is; is it worth fannying on further with the strobe to get the timing nailled or can i leave as is?? i know timing a series motor is a bit of an art form!!

my previous attempts at ignition timing were less than sucessful hence my reluctance for further "fannying on" :D

cheers
Click to expand...

I'm not that good with words but I'll have a go, in answer to your question.........................no.:D
 
Soloby Rob said:
I'm not that good with words but I'll have a go, in answer to your question.........................no.:D
Click to expand...

I think I would be looking at a reason for the timing to go out that bad that it was backfiring and running like a burst ball, points, condensor, timing chain rattling about etc. Adjusting the timing is compensating for something else that you may be overlooking.
 
At the very least it's worth cleaning the points and setting the points gap (if they're old probably best to replace points & condenser) before setting the static timing. Might be a good idea to check the valve clearances before doing the ignition timing too, because the valve clearances affect the valve timing. After setting the static timing I start the engine and let it idle, then adjust the timing and find the position where the engine idles best - the engine will slow down and misfire either side of the best timing position. Using the strobe would be useful for finding out if the timing is jumping around due to a worn distributor/drive mechanism, and if the timing advance mechanism is working correctly.
 
david451 said:
I think I would be looking at a reason for the timing to go out that bad that it was backfiring and running like a burst ball, points, condensor, timing chain rattling about etc. Adjusting the timing is compensating for something else that you may be overlooking.
Click to expand...


sorry i forgot to mention but i also swapped distributer, HT leads and plugs out for a set of used one's from a spare engine....
 
If you have the timing set just right, even a change of petrol could make it seem not so good.

Sounds to me like you did a good job, and on that basis .... if it isn't broken, don't fix it!

Leave well alone ..

CharlesY
 
doobie said:
cheers! i think i'll do just that!
Click to expand...


If you can lay hands on a really good strobe and a tacho, I suggest you run a trial along these lines. First, clean the crankshaft pulley, then rub chalk (yellow is best) onto the numbers to make them really clear to see under the strobe.

Now connect the strobe to plug-lead #1 and the tacho both to 12volts and dizzy, and run the engine up to some exact speed, probably about 2,500 rpm, where the torque is high. If the slow running screw will take the revs up that far, use it. If not, fit a spacer so it does.

Now start the strobe, and with the revs EXACTLY on 2,500 note the advance showing on the crankshaft pulley.

Take the strobe off plug lead # 1 and fit it to plug lead #4, and test again at 2,500 rpm. The advance SHOULD be exactly the same. In practice it may be a bit off as Lucas were never very careful about distributor cam-grinding.

With this data you can play aboaut to your heart's content knowing you can always very quickly get back to where it is now, running nicely.

LandyZoners near me are welcome to contact me for a setup using my strobe and tacho kit.

CharlesY
 
doobie said:
cheers! i think i'll do just that!
Click to expand...


If you can lay hands on a really good strobe and a tacho, I suggest you run a trial along these lines. First, clean the crankshaft pulley, then rub chalk (yellow is best) onto the numbers to make them really clear to see under the strobe.

Now connect the strobe to plug-lead #1 and the tacho both to 12volts and dizzy, and run the engine up to some exact speed, probably about 2,500 rpm, where the torque is high. If the slow running screw will take the revs up that far, use it. If not, fit a spacer so it does.

Now start the strobe, and with the revs EXACTLY on 2,500 note the advance showing on the crankshaft pulley.

Take the strobe off plug lead # 1 and fit it to plug lead #4, and test again at 2,500 rpm. The advance SHOULD be exactly the same. In practice it may be a bit off as Lucas were never very careful about distributor cam-grinding.

With this data you can play about to your heart's content knowing you can always very quickly get back to where it is now, running nicely.

LandyZoners near me are welcome to contact me for a setup using my strobe and tacho kit.

CharlesY
 
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