Ignition key removal 300tdi EDC auto

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basquen

Member
Posts
37
Hi,
Since yesterday the ignition key no longer goes to position '0'. Auto box in P, transfer engaged. I can hear the inhibitor click when pressing the brake pedal and I can run through the gears OK. Does anyone know what controls the barrel and prevents the key going no further back than position '1' ?

This is on top of breaking down yesterday whilst on the road. Engine just died. All the symptoms of the fuel cut-off solenoid failing but pulled it out this morning and it is working fine (even tried without plunger). Fuel arriving OK at filter bleed screw using lift pump. Engine cranks fine but no hint of firing up.

Could the two issues be related ?

1997 300Tdi EDC japanese import
 
Firstly Hello!

Secondly the ignition switch is a :violent: it must be in neutral to be removed and you need to push the key into the barrel and turn back to 0 at the same time if the key won't push in then there is a fault with the barrel / Solenoid pin (all one bit)

Thirdly
The cut out thing can you describe it some more please like how fast slow etc etc, I have had a recent one in with the same problem you would drive along happy and then it was as if the ignition was flicked of and on no faults show up on the diag so put a simple test wire and switch on to supply permanent power to the stop solenoid for the driver to use for a month and the fault never occurred so its clearly a fault in the supply but were well i will be bollixed if am spending hours chasing it so that test rig is now a permanent back up !!:tea:
 
You're right. First problem is now solved. I've just had the cover offer the solenoid pin mechanism and all it needs is a gentle flick to release the key. The temptation is to unplug the solenoid itself but I'm reluctant to mess about with the ignition circuit given the other problem.
The engine cut out yesterday whilst off-road in the woods. Plenty of water splashing up into the engine bay but nothing too dramatic. I've had this vehicle for 4 years with no problems evening after deep wading. My first thought was a dodgy/wet connection to the fuel cut-out solenoid connection but a direct feed to the it made no difference. I've tested the solenoid out on the bench and it's OK. Just to be sure I removed the spring and plunger and tried starting that way. Still no joy so it's clearly not the solenoid.

I can draw diesel using the lift pump (at least as far as the filter bleed). Next step is probably to crack open the feeds to the injectors to see if the diesel is getting that far.
I was wondering if the the throttle sensor could be playing up. The pedal runs smooth to about 3/4 travel then there is a hardness. To be honest I though the footmat was getting caught at first. It's a pain to even get a glimpse at this part because it's buried up behind the fuse box. I'll try and investigate some more.
All dash lights are working as normal, all fuses checked, ...
Frustratingly I don't have access to any diagnostic testing.
 
So i take it its a none runner ??? or is it just cutting out ?:confused:

i have on had another fault like this but the edc light flickered i think at the time but the problem is the ECU is so basic it doesn't always illuminate the check light anyway enough of me blabbering the problem on diag showed up as a timing fault inject 4 on inspection it was the fact that were the wire attaches to the injector this was touching the metal on the injector (shorting out) this caused a whole load of fun from none starting on mornings to hot start faults to no power and i think the client said it cut out or misfired too, so this would be worth a check i simply gently bent it away from the injector to give clearance an it was happily ever after !!
 
Yesterday's cut-out was the first time this has happened. No prior warning signs , lack of power or anything. Got a towed home and haven't been able to start it since then. The engine check light is behaving normally, the fuel pump buzzing (as usual) but the engine just turns over on the starter. Having been struggling with this most of today, the battery is now flat. I'll charge overnight and try again tomorrow. I'll also check the fuel sender in the boot and follow the lines to the engine, just incase there's some air getting in somewhere.
 
Oh i am off out now will talk in the morning but just a few things for you to mull over if its a none start,

These EDC engines have a fail safe i.e. it will always (pretymuch) start, it just goes into a preset mode inefficient like a modern limp mode, so i suspect your fault if not electrical i.e ecu failure (really the only think that would stop it going) it must be something deep in the bowls i would also try theses quick fixes

Give the ecu case a earth with some wire

unplug and re-plug in the ecu a few times as the connections can corrode if you have a damp interior

I would check your timing the EDC engine need its timing to be spot on or it won't even try to start, and if you've had it for 4 years its about due a belt !!

And last but not least my old favourite just give it a bit of sniff, that will clatter it into life and if it ticks over and sounds like a trinidadian steel band then you know there is something else up :eek: ( i take no responsibility :))
 
I would defiantly be inclined to use some sniff tomorrow this will start it ( unless its totally buggered) and listening to the engine will give you a good idea of whats wrong, i know of a few people who have done this and its solved problems because some ho of roading or whatever its sucked air in and it just needed to be force started and the would was a good place again,

Good luck and let us know how you get on !
 
I've now seen through the oil fill that the rockers aren't moving when turning over the engine so it looks like it's the cambelt.
Last changed 11 months ago / approx 14,000km so it was the last thing I was expecting! :angry2:​
 
That would do it !! with any luck you'll have only bent a few push rods, if it was only changed 11 months ago, i would be asking why it has failed so soon !:confused:
 
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