I think I’ve buggered it

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apples24

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50
For fecks sake

Manage to sus out one issue
fited another amp and units in rear etc and it worked all worked stereo came to life!!! feeling superb about myself at that point

Then spend 30 mins in boot trying to fit it all neat tidy
go to start car and flat battery (boot lights)

Booster pack on the jump point live and earth on the earth jump point on strut top it starts instantly .

Next thing stereo flickering yellow dash warning lamps flickering batt light on and off hdc faults the lot
presume not charging, draining and causing all manor of can bus hissy fits

So I thinks Hmmn I’ll remove all the units I’ve put in boot maybe ones heavy drain and causing the issues

Nope still the same

So either somehow I’ve done the alternator regulator in??

Or somethings happened to cause can bus issues throwing every sodding unit into a tantrum

Can’t flippen believe this

I tried fast charging battery for an hour it ran fine for 5 mins then done it again


Currently just removed battery and is in kitchen on charge that will prob reset bcm etc to

not looked are the alternators easy to remove on a td6 2005?

any thoughts guys have I some how buggered my rectifier on alternator or something?

bloody thing lol
 
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Sounds like your alternator is shot, or the earth link from engine to body has broken.
If you can get the engine running, put a DVM across the battery, you should see at least 14.7 volts at 2k rpm.
 
Well nicely charged battery on car 11.9v started car 11.6 lol
Oddly when started no batt light on dash but only ran it shortly didn’t want to drain battery



is there anything else I should check before proceed to alternator removal?

I chevked fuse 5 as I’m sure I read somewhere that’s related

I think I’ll lower suspension to do it lol
 
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I'm not an expert in this area...or any area... but are you sure it is not charging? I have had my fair share of low battery level issues and perhaps you drained it while working on it causing all the issues and a good run might put you straight again - or prove it is not charging?
 
It’s not charging mate it will show a drain with everything waking up on the car I imagine after me connecting battery.
 
If your battery was only at 11.9v after charging it's either not been on charge for long enough or it's not taking a charge & has had it, certainly not 'nicely charged' it's flat.
Charge it fully off the car (or disconnected) with a battery charger or substitute a known good and fully charged battery & see what happens before doing anything else.
Bit of reading: https://haynes.com/en-gb/tips-tutorials/how-test-car-battery
"As we've discussed the resting voltage should ideally be no lower than 12.6V. Bear in mind that when a battery goes down to 12.2V it's actually only 50% charged, and below 12V it's classed as discharged!"

Is the alternator on these conventional or ecu controlled?
 
Looks bloody tight to remove??

Where’s the belt tensioner?

I googled it and saw one post saying move power steering pump out way no need to remove viscous
 

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One trick and it only a suggestion is to get it running and very quickly pull the earth off the battery if it cuts out the alt is dead! If it does cut out, let it stop completely , turn off the ignition and decide what your going to do from there.
If it runs then switch off the ignition and reconnect the battery.
Either a duff battery through the work you've been doing or a coincidence the alt has given up after the repair...
This sounds familiar... One repair then another repair and then... ;)
If you charge the battery over night, let it sit for the day and check the voltage. If in doubt take it and get it checked via a load tester to confirm its health. :cool:
 
Mark Piercy said:
One trick and it only a suggestion is to get it running and very quickly pull the earth off the battery if it cuts out the alt is dead! If it does cut out, let it stop completely , turn off the ignition and decide what your going to do from there.
If it runs then switch off the ignition and reconnect the battery.
Either a duff battery through the work you've been doing or a coincidence the alt has given up after the repair...
This sounds familiar... One repair then another repair and then... ;)
If you charge the battery over night, let it sit for the day and check the voltage. If in doubt take it and get it checked via a load tester to confirm its health. :cool:
Click to expand...
On some alternators, that can destroy the diode pack, used to happen often on boats fitted with an isolator switch when the owner turned off with the engine running. Newer stuff may be less sensitive I suppose.
It could also potentially damage ECU's as the voltage spikes could go well above 15 volts.
 
What’s point testing battery if there’s no extra bolts trying to go back into it


I have to conclude it’s alternator either jumping it with booster pack fried it or it’s just failed same time


Next move is alternator it looks fiddly can’t see why viscous has to come off??
Can’t even see a belt tensioner it’s bloody tight
 

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