Disco 2 I need to stop reading about LR's. (TD5 Oil Pump Bolt)

I know. After this am not Googling Disco 2 ever again. Other than the water pump failing and popping the heater matrix (even then I still got home) she has not let me down yet. I don't mind spending a little on her third birthday with me to ensure smooth running.

Bought mine with 60k on the clock, now at 310k, water and oil pump not touched so far although the heater matrix did fail a few years ago.
Main concern is when should the cam chain be changed ?

I was always told they only need to be done when they become noisy. But that is very high mileage compared to most so i'm not sure.

I need to do mine, but I tried to remove the bolts on the cross member, and the first one snapped, and all the others felt like they would also snap, so it's put on hold at the moment. Any tips for getting around this problem?

Lots of release oil for a few weeks prior to doing it and then heat on the day to free it off. Do you have a impact gun?

Thanks gazman. That was kind of what I was thinking. No impact gun. I've already soaked in penetration fluid, so will keep doing that and try again.

If your gonna use a breaker bar or similar dont just keep winding it out, undo it a bit until it gets difficult and then tighten it a bit and then try again. If you keep winding out it can seize in, bend etc. Winding it back in sometimes helps to clean the threads esp if spraying it with release oil.

Haystacks said:

I need to do mine, but I tried to remove the bolts on the cross member, and the first one snapped, and all the others felt like they would also snap, so it's put on hold at the moment. Any tips for getting around this problem?

Click to expand...

Get somebody else to do it.... that's what I did.

I'll have to give this a try, as I really want to check that bolt. Mileage is on 98k now, and I thought if it was going to come off it would have by now, but I see some had 160k odd on theirs when it went.

Get someone else to do it..... Always a solution!

hi haystacks, i know everybody says take the crossmember off. you dont have to. drop the offside trackrod off and just pull it over to one side then jack the body up(i put the jack under the front cross member) and the sump will come off.

oldbigal said:

hi haystacks, i know everybody says take the crossmember off. you dont have to. drop the offside trackrod off and just pull it over to one side then jack the body up(i put the jack under the front cross member) and the sump will come off.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this, this could be a solution and quicker than drilling out snapped bolts! Good tip!

Hi Folks.

Had the bolt replaced today. It was not loose but did not have thread lock on it. Now has the thread locked version on. Which then led to another issue to fix. There has never been a oil light on my dash! Just never noticed. Seems to be another common issue where the White wire gets pinched or damaged usually when a clutch is done. So I guess my clutch is newer than I thought!

So I'll have to sort that wire. I would/will not know if I have oil pressure issues either way currently.

Just done my oil pump bolt thus weekend. 99 with 134k on the clock. The bolt was tight, but had no thread lock on it.

Cheers

I completed the task of the oil pump bolt yesterday, and can confirm the sump did come out after just removing one side of the track rod end and moving the steering bar to one side, so saved removing the cross member. My bolt was not loose, but certainly not very tight and had no thread lock of any kind showing. Mine has covered 98K now, and has a full Land Rover service history! I used the original bolt, replaced with thread lock and left overnight before refilling with oil.

Replacing the sump was tricky, trying to keep the new gasket in place! A little tip is to put the long bolts at the back of the sump in first, before the shorter ones, as when I refitted the sump, all but one of the bolts went in, and the one that wouldn't grip was a long bolt at the rear of the engine, which meant removing all the shorter bolts to wiggle the sump into position, before the long bolt would take! Lots of time faffing! However, that could just be mine!

This is the sort of job that could take 2-4 hours, but if you get a few niggles as I did, you should allow a day to be sure!

Glad it's all done, a bit more peace of mind!

My bro did it for me and like you it was a pain getting the gasket on! Mine was tight but no thread lock. I have also re connected the wires for the oil light now.

Gasket positioner.

http://www.hisltd.co.uk/Loctite-534-Gasket-Positioner-19g.html

flat said:

Gasket positioner.

http://www.hisltd.co.uk/Loctite-534-Gasket-Positioner-19g.html

Click to expand...

That would have definitely made it easier!

Honestly the stuff is invaluable!

Never come across that stuff before - I generally use Wellseal left to go tacky but it is a bit messy.

The new gasket was folded in the packet so would not lie straight which also did not help. Ah well he did a good job. No leaks.

Just the squeaky rear calipers pins and mounts to do now and my missing rear mud guard then hopefully she'll be trouble free for a while.

(I had to replace the passenger door this week as some twerp ploughed into her! Grrrr).