Hydraulic Bump Stops?

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bankz5152

bankz5152

Well-Known Member
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So after my recent events in Spain ive been looking at hydraulic bump stops for the front.

The reason for fitting would be to take soften any impact from the front end after it lands. I also found the diff guard hit the PAS box, only cliped the corner but still enough to cause concern. Last thing I want is to cause heavy damage when thousands of miles from home.

Question is am I looking at the right thing? Or should i be looking at something else such as changing springs or shocks? I believe as soon as the winch goes on Ill need new front springs anyway as the front will drop.

Overall my 110 is a daily driver but when off road I tend to drive hard, if anything a little too hard :p plus I will be doing more of the same. LRP is already being planned for next year, Morocco is on the cards as well as the possible idea of using the 110 as more of an off roader than a road car. So looking at everything really...

More of a thinking out loud thing from people that have fitted them.

Got HD shafts/CVs on the cards plus a pegged LSD for the front too.

The rear isnt so much of an issue as less weight over the rear end + all generally very quick and easy to replace and repair.
 
If you already know the steering guard hits the PAS, then I'd probably grind off the corner (presumably) of the guard that's hitting.

Don't think there's a great deal of difference between hydraulic bumpstops to extended plastic, other than adjustability to exactly the right size, which you can do with a 'normal' bump stop anyway by cutting it. I'd prefer a more adjustable and progressive spring and damper setup and geometry changes than having to use bumpstops other than for the most absolutely extreme drops/bumps ... and even then you ain't certain of saving stuff!

I'd remove the wheels with the chassis supported enough so that you can flex as hard and far as the axle can go to see what else might hit, and where, and measure as best you can what room you have to play with. You might also be able to work out best spring sizes for ride height too and spring weights to support the loads.

Yes, a decent winch setup is a lot lighter than they used to be (esp. when they used wire rope) but it still hangs out front so generates a large, heavy, moving force so springs will need to be heavier usually, and or dampers re-valved to suit. If you're gonna dedicate the vehicle to mostly off-road, consider mounting the winch slightly further (as far as you can) back, on a tray mounted between the chassis rails .. it'll allow you to use a lighter bumper to offset the extra weight .. ;)

Just my thoughts .. I've not used hydraulic bumpstops, but can't see any great gain from the usual.

Sounds an interesting build .. ;)
 
Indeed. Just trying to work out whats what really!

The bumper isnt changing took me 2 years to find one i wanted! lol

Got TF +2 big bores which take things in their stride and are doing well thus far, however considering Fox or Bilstein remote res next but unsure till i find exactly what i want.

I thought the hydro stops acted as an "extra" damper that helps take more of the shock from the harder landings. More research needed!
 
They still only have limited movement and yes they're damped, but I reckon at the extreme end, which is where you're looking, a bit of extra damping in the last inch or so of travel won't help much.
 
Fair point. Main wondering is every extreme or race truck has them so they must serve a greater purpose than the ole rubber ones or they wouldnt exist kinda thing!

I suppose im trying to.solve my stupidty with parts, i could just not do jumps or extrema climbs but wheres the fun :p
 
A problem with 'some' racing and racers is that they use sponsored stuff .. which ain't always what they'd like to use .. especially when it's lower-end stuff .. :)

And oh yeah, do the jumps, do the extreme stuff and have a blast .. and whatever happens keep your foot in it .. :)
 
Yeah very true! I was only looking at the lower end terrafirma stuff so yeah lol. I plan to keep my 110 for the foreseeable future and I know the mrs would never ask me to sell it so Ill carry on for as long as able! Just be nice to drive where ever, do what ever and still get back with minimal issues!:D

What I try to do is take a new challenge every now and then, see what the car can do and see what needs adjusting and or upgrading. Right now its drive train and suspension which seem to be the weaker points and I don't plan on turning the power down :D
 
I don’t have hydraulic bump stops and I’ve never used them. But the theory is they are a last resort damping.

Ideally for most of the time the main dampers and springs should control the axle. Bump stops are a final measure once all else is compressed. A hydraulic one has more travel than a rubber stop so can be engaged sooner to try and prevent using all of the compression travel.

If you are having hard landings they should help. Although it would be well worth trying to get a setup that has suspension able to cope with the demands better.

Btw - what are you doing to keep hitting the stops anyway? Sounds rather brutal.

The type of shocks you need ideally are bypass shocks. They are soft when compressed slowly, but stiffen up for high impacts to not bottom out.

Lots of people make them and you’ll find them on rock bouncers, king of the hammers rigs, Ultra4’s and rally raids.

They don’t come cheap mind!!! Terrafirma do some but you are looking at £500 a shock and you can easily spend double.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/263441207527
 
Are bypass shocks different to remote res? I thought they where rather similar to each other.

Not often but I had a few rather hard landings after some very steep hill climbs

FB_IMG_1538685656053.jpg
 
bankz5152 said:
Are bypass shocks different to remote res? I thought they where rather similar to each other.

Not often but I had a few rather hard landings after some very steep hill climbs

View attachment 160207
Click to expand...
Different but similar and can be both.

Remote res shocks simply have another reservoir for the oil/fluid in the shock (looks like another shock body connected by hoses to the main shock body). As a shock is worked hard it’s fluid heats up. Having more of it allows you to work them harder and for longer. The bigger surface area also promotes better cooling. These are also found on off road race vehciles due to the constant motion. This can allow you to run damping rates that would over heat in a single shock body.

This is a $1500 bypass shock. Note it has an external res also but also note the extra pipes connected to the body. I’m no expert on how they work, but under certain conditions it will “bypass” some sections effectively giving variable damping. This means you still get all the nice flex at low speed. But when catching air it doesn’t crash down to the bump stops instantly.

King-3-0-Bypass-Shock-Pure-Race-Remote-Reservoir-4-Tube.jpg


There are some good vids on YouTube that explain it way better than me.
 
Interesting! Not sure I can afford that price tag for the occasional bout of stupidity haha. So am I right in thinking with the remote res set up I could run a much hard damping rate off roading then soften it for road use?
 
As per @300bhp/ton
Fitting hydro bump stops,stops the normal shocks bottoming out & blowing the shock.
Problem with most of the remote fox shocks these are large & stick out the tip of wing. Look at most racers.
I would put extended bump stops on. Search for some that have a bit more give, so progressive not just solid.
If you strengthen the shafts etc this could send the problem to the gearbox.
Then slow your driving down so you don't slam the front down with power applied.
Jumping Landrovers & fixing them gets to us all :oops:
 
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