hows the best way of getting crankshaft pully bolt off

Ive started the rebuild of my engine in situ. New seal ,oil pump ,chain, camshaft . Ive dropped the sump but dont know if its a good idea to jam a block of wood between crank and engine body to get it off. Anyone done this and any tips would be appreciated

when i undid mine i had a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pushed it round the chassis then flicked the ignition on and off a few times and the power and shock of that undone it with no probs

p38on22s said:

when i undid mine i had a breaker bar and socket on the crankshaft pushed it round the chassis then flicked the ignition on and off a few times and the power and shock of that undone it with no probs

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Dude - you've got balls...

Stick a piece of 3" by 2" between crank and block.

You can buy a complete timing kit of eBay including a crankshaft holding tool you will need one of these kits for timing.

Think it maybe a V8 don't need timing tools for those. A block of wood is a lot cheaper. Specially if you already have the sump off.

wammers said:

Think it maybe a V8 don't need timing tools for those. A block of wood is a lot cheaper. Specially if you already have the sump off.

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That's what I get for assuming .

defender300td1 said:

That's what I get for assuming .

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Well i am guessing, but he said he was replacing oil pump, timing chain and cam. To do that on a doozel you have to remove the cylinder head and the sump to get the front cover off. So assume it's a V8.

yep its a lpg guzler. I think the block wood option is the best . I assume its the same as any thread. Face the front of the engine and turn bolt to left to untighten. The old lefty loosy righty tighty !
The starter motor option nd reakr bar is a little extreme for my liking

Willos said:

yep its a lpg guzler. I think the block wood option is the best . I assume its the same as any thread. Face the front of the engine and turn bolt to left to untighten. The old lefty loosy righty tighty !
The starter motor option nd reakr bar is a little extreme for my liking

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Yeah that's about the gist of it. Steady pressure on a breaker bar should see it move, not all that tight. Only 200lb ft. Don't forget to torque it up before you put the sump back on though. Or you will need a crank holding tool.

Arrr only 200 lbs. I dont think my torque rench goes that far. A lorry torque kit might do the job. I think i know someone with kit so big. Or just go beyond the 100lb mark until forearms are about to snap should do the trick. I hope the sockets up to it as its not an impact set

panic over. 3x2 block in block and a good steady hand on breaker bar and hey presto .
That nut was the do or die of the build cos if that dont shift nowt else can be done
Ta fellow p38 fans another rangie will live to see another day. Oil leak on the transfer box ive just noticed. another job for another day