How to ruin an antique trailer (camper)

Well I have finally moved into mi little lock up so it’s time to start the trailer.

For those that may be faintly interested or having trouble falling to sleep I’ll remind you of the story so far. I like little adventures with my shooting and fly fishing but staying out overnight is always s pain. Using a B&B isn’t always practical when ending s day full of mud and I can’t be doing with a tent.

Henry, my series mongral needed a little trailer to pull along that was equipped with a bed and kettle, possibly some wet wipes and an empty paint can for sanitation. I eventually found s cheap enough donor trailer that would match my vintage vehicle with leaf springs and same sized wheels to negate the need of two spares and promptly stuck it round the back of the house for 18 months until today.
I did find out that it was worth a fortune and a collectors item and was made by Brockhouse for a series one in the 50s but that’s another story and after offering it for a swap to anyone as a restoration project no body came forward so it’s finally time for the angle grinder to come out.

I began today with the strip down. This is how it looked first thing.


Way too small with a bed of about six foot by three and a half foot.

It’s almost unrecognisable as a Brockhouse as it’s had a frame welded round the sides but it still had the little giveaways like the hub caps and the nose bump


By this afternoon I had managed to cannibalise it until...... well until very little was left.



First job will be to refurb the springs, axle and hubs then onto making it the right size. Weight isn’t going to be a factor as it was originally built to take vastly more than a tin tent so I can concentrate on making it ruddy gorgeous.

It’s going to take an age to do but hey, what else am I going to do with a lock up.

They knew how to make a spring in the 50s.



Wish I knew how to restore one

Split one this morning and set about it with a wire wheel. Then onto a bit of specialist coating.


Lots more head scratching and pondering with a tape measure in hand but not much physical progress. Then again it’s early days.
One issue I’m going to have is with the shackle bushes or lack of them. You see the bolt has a grease nipple on the end that delivers lubrication to the steel against steel articulation for the spring. As expected after lord only knows how many years, the hole in the solid dumb iron has ovalised. Not sure how I’m going to tackle the issue but I want to try and keep the original bolts. Was thinking of some sort of tubular shim but I don’t even know if such a thing exists.

those old ones might of had a brass/bronze bushing for the spring eye. Those shackle irons just make some new ones out of high carbon flat bar, such as cold rolled. and just drill the right size hole for the bolts. And if springs are to stiff just remove a center leaf if needed. Really it is childs play

Thor1950 said:

those old ones might of had a brass/bronze bushing for the spring eye. Those shackle irons just make some new ones out of high carbon flat bar, such as cold rolled. and just drill the right size hole for the bolts. And if springs are to stiff just remove a center leaf if needed. Really it is childs play

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The hole through the curl in the spring is surprisingly snug. It’s the hole in the piece welded to the chassis that’s the problem.
No sign of a bush but there is plenty of meat in it to drill it out a few mm and insert something to take up the slack. Looks like I’ll be investing in an appropriate sized reamer.

I wonder if I can remember what order the springs go back together

I'd suggest getting something like radius arm bushes (almost and cheap, easily obtainable bush) and use them, make the holes to suit, or bushes sized to suit the existing holes, IYSWIM. Brackets I'd probably fabricate new and weld on once the base frame is cleaned up.

Doing a good job with the springs so far, mind .. )

Bobsticle said:

The hole through the curl in the spring is surprisingly snug. It’s the hole in the piece welded to the chassis that’s the problem.
No sign of a bush but there is plenty of meat in it to drill it out a few mm and insert something to take up the slack. Looks like I’ll be investing in an appropriate sized reamer.

I wonder if I can remember what order the springs go back together

Click to expand...

When we had worn parts like that, we would usually drill over size, machine a spacer, and weld it back in the oversize hole. Once in and welded, make it the size you want/need for the bolt. It requires a lathe to be done properly, but you can do it without.

Just been having a look at bronze bushes. I should be able to slip one in from either side leaving a well in the center to collect grease. Just a case of reaming out to the bolt size then. Looks like about a tenner should cover it for bushes. Its the reamer that will be a killer.

Or weld the oval hole up, and redrill to original size

Managed the other spring today but I may have to re think the chassis. Being sympathetic to the latest regulations on trailer legislation I would like to maintain its originality but am struggling with its size and configuration. The easiest way would be to make a new one but I may have to settle for locking it in a door jamb and stretching it until fit for purpose.

While I’ve been a ponderin and plannin it would seem the chassis has been mucked about with in the past. I thought it strange a manufacturer would take two inch angle iron and stitch two by two box section in it to create a strong frame. That is until you realise that it may only have been originally angle iron and the box section was added later to increase the weight capacity. Even the springs may have been upgraded as they seem a little heavy for such a small unit.
None the less the springs will be staying as is. It’s not as if ride quality is important for something that won’t be ridden in and tyre pressure can be adjusted to reduce any bounce. More important is rigidity when camping in it. I’d hate it to become airborne at an inconvenient moment of passion if Mrs Bob was aboard. Best I aim for stability for rutting bison than field mouse foreplay.

Back at it tomorrow as the 22/32 reamer has arrived that will take my chosen bushes with a 5/8 inside diameter for the bolts.

Having an hour to spare this afternoon I had a look at the oles for these spring bolts.
First job was to drill out the uneven hole on my very inadequate pillar drill. With much perseverance and a fair amount of spitting as the bit jammed and bounced it’s way through the steel I managed a reasonable guide for the reamer.



Then a flush through with the reamer to make it proper kruckid like.



They fit nice but unsure whether to glue them in with a smear of silicone just so they dont move but the bolt does. They are only thin but I didnt want to compromise the shackle and they will be easily replaceable. Pushed in from each side they dont quite meet in the middle leaving a nice gap for a grease trap. Ill probably weld up the hole in the side. I removed a knock in nipple from each one but If I fix the shims, I wont need this grease point as the bolts have a nipple on them.



Once fitted and pumped with grease I should get one or two journeys out of them.
Now saving up to replace my stolen welder so things may slow on the chassis front but at least I can rebuild the springs.

Seems the double posting is rife.

Any updates on this Mr Sticle? V interested in what you come up with.

Retrospaceman said:

Any updates on this Mr Sticle? V interested in what you come up with.

Click to expand...

Sod all mucka.
I am busy replacing my tools at the mo. Just picked up a welder/generator that will need fettling as they are around a grand for a usable one and this was £80. Quite a lot of fettling I should think.
The springs are done but no use getting the chassis steel until the lock ups security has been upgraded and I need a working welder for that. Catch 22

Youll all be pleased to know the security is now upgraded and work can re commence.

That is after the kitchen is finished.