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[ HOW TO ] 200tdi Timing Belt

Discussion in 'Common Faults and Questions' started by accywingy, Jul 21, 2004.

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  1. accywingy

    accywingy Large Member! Administrator

    Mar 16, 2004
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    Jetting around the world or Sunny Accrington
    Of all the things that could go wrong it had to be the timing belt !!!!!

    After searching around and doing a little research on the 200tdi engine, I decided that the best idea would be for me to strip down and rebuild any damage myself.
    So I thought I would do a kind of step by step description of what I did/found. So here goes.
    First things first for those who are not sure (I wasn’t before I started) The 200tdi and 300tdi Land Rover engines are Four cylinder in-line over head valve, so the amount of damage from a timing belt break should be minimal. The first job was to remove the rocker cover to see if I could see any damage, and sure enough there was. 6 of the 8 pushrods were bent, a sure sign that the belt had gone if I was in any doubt before.


    So now its time to get down to the timing belt housing, This was a little more complex than I had imagined it would be, so here are a list of bits to be removed:-
    First you should remove all water pipes to the pump, and hoses from the intercooler to increase access.

    Then the viscous coupling and fan should be loosend, a special spanner is required here so I made my own, you need a 32 mm with a crank in it.
    To remove the fan you must remove the cowling screws amd retract the fan and cowling together.
    Then comes the water pump, being careful to make note of the bolt positions as they are different lengths.
    Remove the alternator
    Remove the power steering pump and place it on the steering arms or somewhere equally secure, there is no need to remove the pipes/ pump from the vehicle.
    If you vehicle has air conditioning the pump must be removed, ensuring that the pipes are not disturbed, the pump can be placed out of the way gently.
    Next you must remove the Crankshaft pulley and damper,(note that upon refitting this bolt should be tightened to 340nm so this should be Very tight) in this case it was loose, indicating that whoever did the timing belt last time did not tighten it properly and I suspect that this is the reason for the belt snapping. I made a tool to help to hold the crankshaft consisting of a piece of flat bar with holes to pick up on the damper fixing holes.
    Due to the damper not being securely fixed it was found to be badly damaged and a new one was required.
    Once all of these are removed you should be able to remove the Timing belt cover, again noting the the bolt positions due to different lengths.
    Once inside you should be able to see the condition of your belt. Mine is pretty bad, so I decided it best to replace the idler wheel and tensioner as well.


    Before any rebuilding could be done I had to clean all the grime from around the housing, and remove the rocker shaft and pushrods so that I could re-time the engine..
    To remove the rocker shaft it is best to loosen the screws but not remove them, this will help to hold the rocker arms in position.
    Once the rocker shaft is removed pull out the pushrods and inspect them. In this case 6 of the 8 where damaged so I changed all 8 of them. ( at £2.30 each I could see no reason not too.)
    So on with the timing……
    There are timing marks on the engine and pulleys so timing from this position is easy.
    The woodruff key in the Crankshaft should line up with the mark and be in the top position, the camshaft should have the dimple lined up with the mark on the head, and the injection pump can be pinned using a 9.5 mm pin or in this case a 9.5mm drill bit.


    Once the relative positions have been found the knew belt, idler and tensioner can be fit (this is harder than it sounds believe me!!) Once fitted double check the marks and tension ( I think its around 35nm) rotate the engine by hand 2 revolutions and check again.
    The crankshaft fixing bolt should be tightened to the specified torque at this point. The torque wrenck that I used was about 1.5 metres in length!! To give you some idea of how tight it should be……
    Assuming the marks are as set, the timing belt cover can be refit.( note that wherever possible I kept the pin in the injection pump to keep the engine at tdc.)
    All of the components should be refit in reverse of removal ensuring to replace all gaskets and tighten all screws to the specified torques.

    Once the parts have been re-placed, the new pushrods can be inserted. It is best to lightly lubricate the pushrods with new oil. Once the pushrods are in place, the rocker shaft can be refit and the valve clearances set. I think the gaps were .1mm to .12mm. using either a feeler guage or a clock.

    Once the rocker is refit, refit the cover, check all fixings, fill with coolant, cross fingers and give her a whirl (that’s what I did anyway)

    YIPEEEEEEE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    She started first time and sounds great…

    I must admit i paniced a little when the AA guy said the words "timing Belt" but i honestly think that had i had lots of free time and the parts readily available, i could have done the job in a day or so. All parts where bought from Buckley Bros Land Rover spares in Blackburn and all in cost me £135!!! which i thought was very reasonable. Had the pulley not been damaged you could knock another £50 off that....
    And for my trouble i managed to learn alittle about the 200tdi, so not all bad ;)
  2. ETC7867

    ETC7867 New Member

    Apr 15, 2008
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    Sounds good, you also need to check the slides the push rods sit into, they are housed just above the cam shaft and roller, the edge sometimes snaps off causing the push rod to jam up and a serious misfire. The head needs to come off if you replace these.
    The slide is quite easy to see with a torch, it&#8217;s the brass looking thing.
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