P38A How much of a pain in the rear is it to replace ventilation ducting

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awkwardbob

Well-Known Member
Posts
590
Location
Glasgow
Hi there,

I have my Instrument cluster out to redo the bulbs and the centre console and switches for a combination of bulbs and hevac repair.

I noticed that the plastic ducting for the heater / ventilation is a bit of a mess. It looks I’ll-fitted and there’s a ton of old gaffer tape just about holding it together.

I suspect a PO has done the o-rings using the ‘cut a hole in the fascua’ method but they may need done again due to soggy foot wells.

what I wondered was whether there was anything else worthwhile I should do whilst in this state of disassembly ?

How much of a pain in the ar*e is it to replace the ducting (which has been cut and has a few broken screw lugs) ? Or does that entail a complete dash removal ? (I can always try and improve the fitting on the ducts) -but maybe it has something to do with why the screen won’t de-mist properly.

I’ve also been reading about blend motors. Is there an easy way to check whether they’re functional or not ?

thanks again for your hell and advice !

bob
 
Dash out is the only way I can see. Heater matrix might be worth replacing whole you're in there. I think the blend motors are checked on startup so no book symbol on the HEVAC and you should be OK.

I totally get you wanting it right but I think I'd be looking at new gaffer tape unless I had time on my hands.
 
You can test the blend motors by removing the hevac and there are wires you can connect to in the plugs and directly power the motors with care and short bursts.
We did this recently to my son's and got his blend motors exercised and working again.
 
blend-motor-diag.jpg
 
If you put the suspension on high and scoot down in the footwell you can repair most of the ducting usually. Only way to get it all is dash out but if your facia is cut they’ve likely not been in there to bodge things in the 1st place so could be fine.
 
I would fix what is bust before looking for other stuff to fix.

Yes, that’s on the list too, I have a new condenser and drier to slot in -I’m just fearful of seized nuts and screws. I might get a chance to tackle that through the week though.

just out of interest, is there an easy (ie. inexpensive) way of reading the HEVAC fault codes ?
 
Yeah, but isn’t that around. £400 ?
Or is it a sensible thing to keep in the glovebox ? (I have VCDS for my Audi so I appreciate the value of a decent diagnostic tool)

Is there anything a little less pricey which might be worth a look ?
 
There is cheaper like Hawkeye but they won’t do much. Won’t get you anywhere with a diesel.
Nanocom is little bit more but does everything. (99%).
Your engine / EAS / hevac - the lot.
MSV2 does the extra 1% for an extra £1000 :eek:

One thing is if you do ever decide to get rid - worst case - Nanocom will sell same day here they will bite your arm off for one.
 
There is cheaper like Hawkeye but they won’t do much. Won’t get you anywhere with a diesel.
Nanocom is little bit more but does everything. (99%).
Your engine / EAS / hevac - the lot.
MSV2 does the extra 1% for an extra £1000 :eek:

One thing is if you do ever decide to get rid - worst case - Nanocom will sell same day here they will bite your arm off for one.
Very true, there’s no point it getting something half-assed and it could save the price of admission in actually knowing what’s broken this time !
I’m a 4.6l Gems so it’s the thick end of £450... wonder if my company needs one ?
 
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