How much could these faults save me

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EntropyUK

Well-Known Member
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Hemel Hempsted
Hi folks this is my first post after a lot of lurking. I am really thinking of dipping my toe into into the P38 world I was looking at a 97 DSE and all looked good except a couple of points. This was only the 2nd car I have looked at but it appears quite tidy. Apart from the items listed I could not find any other problems listed in the buyers guides that are around.

Firstly the rear N/S brake appeared to have some form of leak, you could see it on the inside of the wheel over the bottom half of cover that surrounds the brake.

Secondly I found moisture in the foot well on the drivers but not on the side of the tunnel as shown on Mez's buyers guide . It was mainly under the foot rest for your left foot.

Thirdly only one key available and I do not know if it is 1st or 2nd key or if that makes any difference.

I'm not sure if the 2nd point is the heater matrix so would like some advice on what it might be

Finally how much do you think that these issues could get knocked off the asking price? I am happy to carry out the work myself to keep costs down but they do not need to know that when discussing the price.
 
Last edited:
EntropyUK said:
Hi folks this is my first post after a lot of lurking. I am really thinking of dipping my toe into into the P38 world I was looking at a 97 DSE and all looked good except a couple of points. This was only the 2nd car I have looked at but it appears quite tidy. Apart from the items listed I could not find any other problems listed in the buyers guides that are around.

Firstly the rear N/S brake appeared to have some form of leak, you could see it on the inside of the wheel over the bottom half of cover that surrounds the brake.

Secondly I found moisture in the foot well on the drivers but not on the side of the tunnel as shown on Mez's buyers guide . It was mainly under the foot rest for your left foot.

Thirdly only one key available and I do not know if it is 1st or 2nd key or if that makes any difference.

I'm not sure if the 2nd point is the heater matrix so would like some advice on what it might be

Finally how much do you think that these issues could get knocked off the asking price? I am happy to carry out the work myself to keep costs down but they do not need to know that when discussing the price.
Click to expand...

Leak could be brake fluid but more likely diff oil weeping from oil seal. Dampness near foot rest will almost certainly be matrix O'rings weeping. Answer to final question. How longs a piece of string. O'rings pretty simple if you are competent same for oil seal. Matrix a pig of a job.
 
A key will set you back about £175. You can order any number from your dealer. Number 1 & 2 will have all the functions. 3 & 4 won't do the lazy locking and seat memory.

Posible way to see which key you have is to set the seat memories in different places. Then move it without setting the memory. Unlock the car on the fob and hold the button down. Which ever position it moves to will be the key you have.

Hope you understand what I mean :D:D
 
Just done the rear hub seal on mine. It's pretty straight forward. However if you find the bearing shot be ready for a bill of couple hundred quid for parts.
 
I presume it's right hand drive? In that case, a leak by your left foot in the footwell is more than likely o rings. I did mine last year and it was a pain of a job as the screw holding them in was seized solid. Had to use a screw extractor set but it is possible to do yourself. Pollen filters will leak into the corners of the footwells on the door side.
 
stjohnsmythe said:
I presume it's right hand drive? In that case, a leak by your left foot in the footwell is more than likely o rings. I did mine last year and it was a pain of a job as the screw holding them in was seized solid. Had to use a screw extractor set but it is possible to do yourself. Pollen filters will leak into the corners of the footwells on the door side.
Click to expand...
Pollen filters leaked into both sides of the footwell on mine, the pollen filter drains were blocked.
 
Thanks for such quick responses. So how much would it roughly cost a garage, all in, to put them right.

1. Key £150 - £175
2. Hub Seal ???
3. Bearing £200ish - Is there anything that I check without jacking the car up?
4. Caliper ???
5. Replace Heater matrix O-rings??? - I know the parts are tens of pounds and the main cost is labour. Would £500 sound reasonable?
 
EntropyUK said:
Thanks for such quick responses. So how much would it roughly cost a garage, all in, to put them right.

1. Key £150 - £175
2. Hub Seal ???
3. Bearing £200ish - Is there anything that I check without jacking the car up?
4. Caliper ???
5. Replace Heater matrix O-rings??? - I know the parts are tens of pounds and the main cost is labour. Would £500 sound reasonable?
Click to expand...
Do you mean £500 each job? If not I think you are in for a nasty surprise, that's why most on here DIY.
 
EntropyUK said:
I was refering to the just the O rings in that instance. Is that a realistic guess as I was thinking it was basically 1 days labour plus £20ish parts.
Click to expand...
The O rings can be done in one hour or so if the screw is not seized using the short cuts posted on RANGEROVERS.NET HOME however it's unlikely a garage would do it that way so it's a complete dash out job. I've no idea how long that takes.
 
And now you see why everyone says "Don't buy a Range Rover with ANY faults on it" (unless you know exactly what you are doing). I bought a "faultless" one (it seemed) and have still spent well over a grand on it already: new air bags, compressor seals, a Nanocom diagnostic tool and some tyres etc. So be warned. But it's fun doing the DIY - mostly :)

Nik
 
stjohnsmythe said:
Unless the screw is seized like mine was. If you're not familiar with a P38 then I'd say it takes a day to do it.
Click to expand...

Speculation was about a garage removing dash. It takes me about an hour. And a couple to put it back. Obviously the jobs you do whilst it's out have to be added to that.
 
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