How Do I Determine the Year of Manufacture?

I have been trying to decipher the VIN and have got it down to that it is indeed a Series 3 88" petrol built in Solihull between 1979-84 but have been unable to narrow down to the year of manufacture. Any idea how I could narrow it down to a year?? I believe it may well have been a military vehicle so could well have been built some time before it was registered for RFL which was 1981. Are there any sites that would be able to determine the actual year of manufacture based on the VIN?

What’s RFL?

Road Fund Licence ---sorry probably using old terminology ---- basically the date of vehicle being registered for road use with the, now, DVLA

Aah got you,

okay, first of all I double it was ex-military as very unlikely they would only use it for a year or two then sell it off privately (the military are RFL exempt as the vehicles aren’t registered until they sell into private hands). The do occasionally register civilian vehicles but it’s not that often tbh,

If 1981 was RFL I would hazard a guess it was built in 1981. They sold well back then.

Land Rover heritage at gaydon can probably supply you the heritage certificate which will detail this kind of thing

You can pay and find out the full build date and history from the Heritage Motor Museum.
https://www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk/archive/heritage-certificates

Several different packages, I think I just did the email option when I checked mine 3-4 years ago. Bit pricey, but the only way to find out for sure.

This one is free to use.
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&s...WMAV6BAgOEAI&usg=AOvVaw2BzYXxj1GuEMHUyy0MS_23

VIN numbers were introduced in 1980 up till then it was chassis number but 62-79 the chassis number didnt show build year...

I guess I'll go down the route suggested by 300bhp/ton as the free websites all give me a range of 1979-84. The reason I'm keen to know is that the Series, although registered in 1981, is throwing up issues such as having pre 1980 wheel bearings, where inner bearing is significantly larger than outer bearing ---- and it is a bit of a bummer when, eventually getting brake drum et al off, you discover you have the wrong wheel bearings sitting in a lovely little box.
As I have mentioned before I am new to trying to fix mechanical things and this is certainly a bit of a steep learning curve ----- steep but enjoyable!!!

Do you have a chassis number or a vin number...they are different...
I have an ex-mil 101 and V5 states built in 75 first date of reg 97..

If you have a 17. Digit VIN then you can decode it here

https://twinwoods4x4.co.uk/how-to-decode-your-land-rover-vin-vehicle-identification-number/

McBoon said:

I guess I'll go down the route suggested by 300bhp/ton as the free websites all give me a range of 1979-84. The reason I'm keen to know is that the Series, although registered in 1981, is throwing up issues such as having pre 1980 wheel bearings, where inner bearing is significantly larger than outer bearing ---- and it is a bit of a bummer when, eventually getting brake drum et al off, you discover you have the wrong wheel bearings sitting in a lovely little box.
As I have mentioned before I am new to trying to fix mechanical things and this is certainly a bit of a steep learning curve ----- steep but enjoyable!!!

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Begs the question as to why you pre order parts?

I very rarely do, apart from parts like mats, which fit a wide range of vehicles.

With parts like bearings, I would remove the old ones, have a look at them, measure them if necessary, and look for part numbers on the old parts. Then there is a much better chance you will order the right ones.

Turboman said:

Begs the question as to why you pre order parts?

I very rarely do, apart from parts like mats, which fit a wide range of vehicles.

With parts like bearings, I would remove the old ones, have a look at them, measure them if necessary, and look for part numbers on the old parts. Then there is a much better chance you will order the right ones.

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Restoring a 59 S2 for a client in Uk...did a proforma for parts cost and he transfered money along with stage labour payments through his son who lives down here...had first lot sent down after stripping and checking whats needed...he now realises why I didnt buy all the parts 4 months ago as his water pump is an 8 bolt but when I removed it there was only 7 and when I looked to order a 7 bolt was military and looked nothing like his checked engine and found broken bolt and under crud on pump a sealed up hole...you cant buy a replacement 8 stud only exchange with surcharge...any parts I buy must be correct so strip and visually look as postage and customs to Portugal means no returns if wrong ordered by me...

Turboman said:

Begs the question as to why you pre order parts?

I very rarely do, apart from parts like mats, which fit a wide range of vehicles.

With parts like bearings, I would remove the old ones, have a look at them, measure them if necessary, and look for part numbers on the old parts. Then there is a much better chance you will order the right ones.

Click to expand...

Thanks, as said before I'm new to this therefore I'm learning and that is what I shall do in the future. Any advice will be welcome!!

McBoon said:

Thanks, as said before I'm new to this therefore I'm learning and that is what I shall do in the future. Any advice will be welcome!!

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Bear in mind that 50 year old vehicles are rarely made up of all the parts that were on the vehicle when new.

Over the years, previous owners may have fitted all kinds of stuff off other models, either because they happened to have those parts lying around, or because they were looking to increase performance, by fitting later engines, or things like higher ratio differentials or transfer boxes.

In the past, when Series were of very low value, and most owners wanted to keep them going at a low cost, this was probably sensible.

Now, with Series increasing in value, and very often second vehicles,it may be better to try and return to original spec where possible.

I have been doing the rear axle and have different stub axles on my 84 model, I’ve had it nearly 15 years and just found out, maybe a tip is to work through each corner and strip the hubs, make notes of bearings and seals before you grease back up, good to see how they work and condition as said above

McBoon said:

I have been trying to decipher the VIN and have got it down to that it is indeed a Series 3 88" petrol built in Solihull between 1979-84 but have been unable to narrow down to the year of manufacture. Any idea how I could narrow it down to a year?? I believe it may well have been a military vehicle so could well have been built some time before it was registered for RFL which was 1981. Are there any sites that would be able to determine the actual year of manufacture based on the VIN?

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Did you manage to decode your VIN?

wireman said:

Did you manage to decode your VIN?

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Decoded all except actual year of manufacture, I can only get range 1979-84. I am looking to go through British Motor Museum system to see if I can get a definitive year.

Turboman said:

Begs the question as to why you pre order parts?

I very rarely do, apart from parts like mats, which fit a wide range of vehicles.

With parts like bearings, I would remove the old ones, have a look at them, measure them if necessary, and look for part numbers on the old parts. Then there is a much better chance you will order the right ones.

Click to expand...

Glad to report that I have managed to change the bearings and the Series no longer drives like a bucking bronco!!!

Turboman said:

Bear in mind that 50 year old vehicles are rarely made up of all the parts that were on the vehicle when new.

Over the years, previous owners may have fitted all kinds of stuff off other models, either because they happened to have those parts lying around, or because they were looking to increase performance, by fitting later engines, or things like higher ratio differentials or transfer boxes.

In the past, when Series were of very low value, and most owners wanted to keep them going at a low cost, this was probably sensible.

Now, with Series increasing in value, and very often second vehicles,it may be better to try and return to original spec where possible.

Click to expand...

Superficially there doesn't appear to be anything major changed, only noticeable thing is the pancake air filter replacing the original big lump. As noted I got the bearings sorted and there is now very noticeably lower vibrations when driving. For my first venture into what I viewed as a bit of a daunting task for a beginner I must say I am rather chuffed!!! Thanks for all your guidance, please feel free to keep it coming.

McBoon said:

Superficially there doesn't appear to be anything major changed, only noticeable thing is the pancake air filter replacing the original big lump. As noted I got the bearings sorted and there is now very noticeably lower vibrations when driving. For my first venture into what I viewed as a bit of a daunting task for a beginner I must say I am rather chuffed!!! Thanks for all your guidance, please feel free to keep it coming.

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Get rid of the pancake filter for a start, the oil bath air cleaner is a good system, and no elements to buy.

The bits that have often been changed are often bits like axles, that are not very different from outside.