How bad is this chassis!!???

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Another area to check is the rear A frame crossmember where the gussets are on the chassis rails, it’s a proper moisture/dirt trap.

after doing 2 chassis changes it opens your eyes to how bad the chassis get when you have them fully stripped down.
That’s exactly where my chassis has failed. I’m not even contemplating a repair, when it gets that bad the rot has already set-in internally. Time for a new galvanised chassis.
 
Where on the Landy is this? I can't figure out what the specific A frame crossmembers and gusset is, that you are referring to.
All l can see underneath my 110 are crossmembers and gussets!!
 
Where on the Landy is this? I can't figure out what the specific A frame crossmembers and gusset is, that you are referring to.
All l can see underneath my 110 are crossmembers and gussets!!


The x member the A frame arm mounts to
 
Where on the Landy is this? I can't figure out what the specific A frame crossmembers and gusset is, that you are referring to.
All l can see underneath my 110 are crossmembers and gussets!!

it’s forward of the rear shock top mounts. The photo is a Richards chassis which is slightly different to allow less of a trap.
 

Attachments

  • 26C4A52F-E703-4099-9CC8-4261AAD492F4.jpeg
    26C4A52F-E703-4099-9CC8-4261AAD492F4.jpeg
    214.3 KB · Views: 102
Oh yes l've cleaned mud out of that area many times.
Definitely a mud trap. Treated mine inside and out with "XCP rust blocker" which is a spray that never dries but doesn't wash off.
 
Just had a galvanised chassis fitted to my 2001 TD5 90. Its around £4,000 fitted. I also had the A frame ball joint done and new brake pipes plus new rad hoses and intercooler ones too as the engine and box were out and the rad. Whilst at it, i had the transfer box seals and O rings renewed plus unfortunately a new AMC cylinder head too as mine was adding pressure into the water jacket and spraying fluid out of the header tank. I also had new turrets and seats fitted as they were well rusted plus they spotted a nasty looking short hose behind the turbo which you cant see normally.
Not cheap at £8,000 so be warned.
A couple of months before this i had three new doors fitted and sprayed, cost was £2,500 ...........
 
And now you've got a lovely rust free Land Rover that will last you thirty years, for the price of a deposit and two years PCP payments on a VW T-Roc just like half your street has on their drive.

And after a further year at £300 per month they've nothing to show for it, except a deposit for their next one.

Where your Land Rover will still be on your drive, standing tall and all yours, and as an added bonus probably worth more than you paid for it.
 
Just had a galvanised chassis fitted to my 2001 TD5 90. Its around £4,000 fitted. I also had the A frame ball joint done and new brake pipes plus new rad hoses and intercooler ones too as the engine and box were out and the rad. Whilst at it, i had the transfer box seals and O rings renewed plus unfortunately a new AMC cylinder head too as mine was adding pressure into the water jacket and spraying fluid out of the header tank. I also had new turrets and seats fitted as they were well rusted plus they spotted a nasty looking short hose behind the turbo which you cant see normally.
Not cheap at £8,000 so be warned.
A couple of months before this i had three new doors fitted and sprayed, cost was £2,500 ...........
£4k fitted is a good price, how did it mount up to £8k? How much is an AMC head?
 
The AMC head is from Turner Engineering and costs £1315 with valves and springs. On top of that are the new head bolts, head gasket, other manifold and cam cover gasket set, a few new studs/bolts, an engine oil change and new filters x 2, new OAT coolant for the rad plus fitting by the Landrover garage plus VAT. So the head replacement cost was over £2,000 plus VAT. My old head was damaged due to previous owners using tap water not OAT fluid in the radiator. The water caused rust and rot in the head and there were holes on the main head face that allowed the cylinders to force pressure into the waterways in the head and also to rot the head gasket, Thats why LR tell you not to use other than OAT fluid for the coolant....its red/orange in colour and you cant use ordinary antifreeze either as it reacts with the alloy head etc.
Not nice paying out around £2,400 because an idiot skimped on his servicing or running costs.
So £4.4k for chassis, £2.4k for the head plus a transfer box rebuild, adding a new £600 LOF powerspec clutch and flywheel i supplied, taking out engine and g/box to replace main crank oil seal and sump gasket, new radius arm bushes fitted, fitting new hoses i supplied for radiator and intercooler, adding new A frame bracket and ball joint, new bump stops, new suspension galvanised turrets and seats, new brake pipes as well. Thats why it all came to £8,123 incl vat.
I previously in Feb 22 had three new doors costing £2,500, all new door seals and HRW glass and three door locks and striker plates plus spraying done. Before that i have had everything under it renewed, all wheel bearings, all shockers, steering damper, springs, brake calipers/pads/ discs and all flexi pipes and some copper ones, all ball joints, three track rod ends, new power steering pump and pipes, new turbo wastegate actuator, new belt and all pulleys, all new seats x 3, new wiper motor/relay/control stalk, all new lights, bonnet release cable , two new exhaust sections and full Dodomat soundproofing added. All done to pass the mot which it did with no advisories. But they did say the chassis was showing signs of needing to also be renewed soon, so i did it.......
Not a cheap hobby owning a Defender is it? I estimate around £22k so far including buying it as a project for £8k.
 
The costs certainly mount up, as with most restoration projects.

lt's all worth it in the end though, watch the neighbours trying not to look at it while they walk their dogs past your house, wishing they had one instead of the Ford C-Max languishing on their drive.
 
Here is my old TD5 chassis its the top one of the two shown. You can see where the waxoyl didnt get to on it....The other is the rolling chassis with its wheels on and the body is above the chassis in that picture on a 4 post ramp.
Old chassis is top one of the two.jpg
New chassis started.jpg
 
My chassis is going on 30 years old. I have already replaced rear tubular outriggers. I have the bulkhead outriggers in the garage ready to do -these have already been replaced in the past. I think my rear crossmember needs replacing - again this has already been replaced. My dumb irons need tidying up. I am sure people will say do a galv chassis swap, and to be honest I would agree, but funds wouldn't!

As I can weld and fabricate, these things will take my time and probably about £300 for the bits (dependant on how I do it).

I have tried to scrape the loose stuff off my chassis and I have sprayed it with Lanoguard so that I can keep my eye on it. When I have done the welding on the outriggers I will treat the inside (after cleaning inside first!).

Me too. 33 years and counting. Hoping for 40 and then I will re-chassis.
 
Back
Top