Freelander 1 Houston we have a problem!!!!

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Bottom line . . if the 24mm bolt is not tight it will never move the tensioner spring. I'm fairly sure it's a normal CW thread.

You need to tighten the 24mm first, and then tighten up the locknut behind, as per the picture posted by Arctic2.

The assembly looks like the attached pic (from RAVE), so you cannot remove the assembly with the engine in the car :(
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Bottom line . . if the 24mm bolt is not tight it will never move the tensioner spring. I'm fairly sure it's a normal CW thread.

You need to tighten the 24mm first, and then tighten up the locknut behind, as per the picture posted by Arctic2.

The assembly looks like the attached pic (from RAVE), so you cannot remove the assembly with the engine in the car :(
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Real photo of the pulley tensioner.
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All the pulleys freewheels off the car.
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Yes it is a pulley wheel which is attached to an arm which is the tensioner spring arm, so you need to tighten the back nut, then the arm will go backwards anticlockwise when you pull towards you on the wheel 24mm bolt.
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Tool i use for the tensioner when changing the belts, these are ground down so they can also be used on the Rover 75 with limited space against the chassis arm.
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15mm aviation spanner is good for getting to the 15mm nut behind the wheel.


Good luck you will get there.
 
I bought a spanner extender to move the tensioner, and keep it loose. Was awkward to hold it, get the belt on and not get one skin behind the belt. To stop the spanner slipping off a wedge of wood may help.
 
A 15/16 inch ring spanner is a better fit than 24mm. They are cheap and turn up at junk tool sales. Well worth having an old one handy. You can weld an extension on, or just slip a pipe on it as I do.
 
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WOOOOOOHOOOOOOOO!!!! done!!!!!
I manage to insert a 15 mm curved behind the tensioner and then used my home made 24mm and it tight the tensioner , came out easy breeeeezyyyy.
YOU GUYS ARE JUST AMAZING!!!!
THANK YOU ALL!!!

ONEEEEEEE LAST QUESTION i know you might kill me but...

I dont have the tool to remove the pulley....
i have seen..
using the engine (hey say you shouldnt)
using the impact wrench (they say you shouldnt )
using a belt with a wrench to hold it
What are your thoughts?
and then to tight it again?

By the photo my pulley was getting noisyyyyy
 

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Never use impact wrench on TD4 as you will fracture the cast iron crankshaft.

Tool is the answer. Buy a good one or it bends !!!
 
You need to stop the bolt from turning. The link I posted, above, says the back nut is a reverse thread.

If that is tight then the 24mm will release the tension when turned.
Hi, I'm just piggybacking on this as I have the belt ready etc but can't move the tensioner sufficiently to get the belt on? plus is there a particular order for putting the new belt on, which is last?? TIA
 
15/16 inch AF spanner and extension bar.

Fit around all top pulleys and idlers and tensioner. Make sure belt is down in grooves fully or it won't go on...

Slide over crank pulley last. Don't put fingers between belt and pulley else if it slips you loose a finger or two !!
 
Obvs take wheel off and plastic splash guard. Get comfy by wheel as it needs lot of control and effort to turn it enough.
Thanks for that! Im struggling though to move the tensioner spring sufficiently to get it over the Crank pulley? Do I have to release the tensioner pulley? oOr just turn with my big 24mm?
 
If the belt is correctly on all the pulleys and down properly, pushing the tensioner will just allow it to fit over the crank pulley. I usually get it half on and then relocate my tensioner spanner and bite a bit more turn.
 
If the belt is correctly on all the pulleys and down properly, pushing the tensioner will just allow it to fit over the crank pulley. I usually get it half on and then relocate my tensioner spanner and bite a bit more turn.
Well after much grunting and sore knuckles.... SUCCESS!! Thanks for the 'half way' tip it did the trick eventually but still needed a bit of persuasion! Ta v much!
 
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