Freelander 2 (LR2) Hoses

Hi all
Not been on here a while, generally had a good running FL2 SD4 and kept it serviced and change what needs doing.

Recently had the hose from intercooler, into the the throttle body blow. Replaced with a cheap amazon next day delivery job to get the car back on the road. Still on there as worked fine, though it was tight as hell to get on and I would advise not using if you can get a proper sized one if you need.

Car been ok for about a month, now similar intermittent loss of power, but its not the same hose. Go to accelerate, hesitates, revs drop, build back up and it responds ok, but its not right. Whack it into semi manual and change up to 3rd gear, it wants to drop back to 2nd by itself, odd that.

Anyway, I could not find a new full set of hoses from one single supplier anywhere. They all seem to have intercooler to throttle body, only some have turbo to intercooler, and they didnt have the full set (or do it) so I ended up buying from 2 suppliers. One is Britpart badged and looks correct sizing. The other is from another supplier and the internal diameter of the turbo hose and steel pipe (inlet) hose (to intercooler) is also slimmer.

So the question is, is the turbo hose and the hose that comes off the steel pipe to the intercooler, just smaller diameter, than Inlet/outlet of the intercooler (understandable) and also smaller than the throttle body diameter?

The only supplier I could find online who did the full set btw, never responded to any emails or picked up the phone, quite well known, not sure if they are still in business. Otherwise would have bought from them.

The other part I bought to replace as could be the culprit of the intermittent issue, is the crank pulse sensor, so will do that whilst working on the hoses. Im not sure the 3 remaining original hoses are split or the issue...

Oh yeah, are there any difference between the TD4 and SD4 hoses?

Cheers
Vin

Loss of boost pressure normally puts the MIL on, or gives a message on the dash about reduced power.
A code read will normally give a P0299 code, which basically means there's a different between the air measured by the MAF, and the boost pressure measured by the MAP.

A failing crank sensor normally gives misfiring type symptoms, but can also cause momentary dropouts of power.

I would think the boost hoses are all the same, as the engines are basically the same, with a slightly different turbo and different mapping on the SD4.

Thanks for the response. MIL light and limp mode kicked in when hose split. Happened a Friday evening a mile from home, took it home, ordered a cheap poor fitting amazon pipe which arrived the Saturday morning and that problem sorted.

There's 2 sensors for crank though right, the crank position sensor, top back of engine, that if faulty fixes misfiring and loss of power, along with difficulty starting the engine? the crank pulse sensor is bottom of the engine and sits next to and behind crank pulley wheel right, that one seems to be a common failure and causes power loss - Thats the one Im changing.

I cant find any vids or good info so far on the crank position sensor.

Hoses, yes I'd hope so, but definitely a difference in size of the hoses inlet vs outlet side of the intercooler.

Vinny73 said:

There's 2 sensors for crank though right, the crank position sensor, top back of engine, that if faulty fixes misfiring and loss of power, along with difficulty starting the engine? the crank pulse sensor is bottom of the engine and sits next to and behind crank pulley wheel right, that one seems to be a common failure and causes power loss - Thats the one Im changing.

Click to expand...

There's only 1 crank sensor, which is at bottom, partially obscured by the crank pulley.
The upper sensor is the cam sensor, and is only used for starting the engine, so the ECM can learn the cam position. Once this is known, the ECM can continue to calculate injector sequence from the crank sensor pulses.

Thanks for clarifying that. I was mixing crank and cam there. So yes, its the crank sensor by the pulley that i have and will change.

I've just run a TopDon OBD check, no codes, was slightly surprised at that. But all clear. Doing the crank pulse sensor later today or tomorrow.
I also did a soft reset of the learning for the gearing, I think it is, oddly this does seem to be making it drive better in the short time since, no searching/hunting for gears and power. may be coincidental and not run it long enough though.