Freelander 1 High Pressure Fuel Pump

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Here's the tool
 

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This is very odd - where the hell is that bolt going? Have a look and a feel inside the access hole and push on the pump spindle a bit. Could it have broken inside the pump and be pushing inwards?
 
The bolt is 50mm long.
It screws all the way in by hand
View attachment 104005

There is your problem then.
The bolt on my tool is 80mm and as you know, it did the same job perfectly.

The collar is 30mm deep (10mm threaded & 20mm knurled).
The sprocket guide is 60mm deep (20mm threaded & 40mm smooth) and then the hex section is another 15mm.
 
Turned out to be a nightmare job after all then (and still is)?

I was really worried about doing mine, one reason being that the vehicle was due to be sold soon afterwards and the last thing I wanted was the possibility of having to fork out on another pump.
Apart from having to take a day out to do the job (actually took from 8AM to about 2.30PM including rebuilding the pump) I was really pleased with how it went and could probably do it in little over half the time now.
Had heard from a few people who had either rebuilt the pump themselves or bought a "rebuilt" pump which leaked either straight away or soon afterwards so left the undertray off for a few weeks so I could spot any tell-tail drips, needless to say that it was all ok and we ran the vehicle for months afterwards until it was sold (new car took 6-months to arrive so we kept the FL1 for longer than anticipated).
 
There are 2 sizes of extractor, a long one and a short one. One is for BMW in general and the other is for Freelanders. I think the Freelander should be shorter because of access (not enough room). Am I right in remembering that the Knurled bush (part 1) is NOT used depending on which BMW engine you are working on (thus converting from long to short)?
 
There are 2 sizes of extractor, a long one and a short one. One is for BMW in general and the other is for Freelanders. I think the Freelander should be shorter because of access (not enough room). Am I right in remembering that the Knurled bush (part 1) is NOT used depending on which BMW engine you are working on (thus converting from long to short)?
Part 2 slides in and out of the knurled bush, so the latter doesn't have any effect on the bolt length. It's just a guide.
 
I've been into the workshop and got the tool so I don't have to remember. It fits: BMW 3 Series E46, 5 Series E39, 7 Series E38, X5 3.0D, Vauxhall/Opal Omega-B, Freelander, Rover 75.
There are 2 bushes A & B (termed rings in the instructions), 1 extractor, 1 bolt. Because this tool fits many engines you have to vary it to suit each engine. The instructions state on some 'use with or without ring dependant on operation'. Also under Freelander it states 'short body may use A or B'. So there we have it, slightly useful but not completely.
Recap the job - Remove the bung in the casing, take the large nut off the pump shaft, [maybe don't fit any bush], screw on the extractor and nip it [no bolt is fitted to the extractor at this stage], NOW screw in the bolt until it contacts the the end of the pump shaft, [I think you can] support the extractor hexagon with a spanner whilst you tighten the bolt. 'CRACK' and the sprocket is released from the taper on the pump shaft. No Woodruff keys to worry about. Leave the extractor attached to stop the sprocket dropping. Maybe slip the bush on ready for assembly to aid alignment.
I didn't have any problems. Does this help?
 
***UPDATE***

Ordered another tool, JOB DONE had it out in less than 10 minutes. Put it all back together today.
Started on the button after letting it prime a couple of times
Come to drive it revs to about 2k then dies with the eml on :(
Have i missed something off, any ideas??
 
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