High lift Jack

Hi all, looking for a bit of advice on the purchase of a high lift style
jack. I own a defender 90 and currently have no way of jacking it if I get a
flat.
What are the pro's and con's of the hi lifts? Where do they attach to the
vehicle when in use and do I need any add on bits for it, base plate jack
adapters for a 90 etc?
Some links to photos of them in use would be a great help too
Thanks in advance

Graeme

http://www.hi-lift.com/

--
nigel@leginDOTorg
1979 Lightwieght


"Cassillis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all, looking for a bit of advice on the purchase of a high lift style
> jack. I own a defender 90 and currently have no way of jacking it if I get
> a
> flat.
> What are the pro's and con's of the hi lifts? Where do they attach to the
> vehicle when in use and do I need any add on bits for it, base plate jack
> adapters for a 90 etc?
> Some links to photos of them in use would be a great help too
> Thanks in advance
>
> Graeme
>
>

"Nigel" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> http://www.hi-lift.com/
>


Excellent! thanks for the link Nigel.

Graeme

> What are the pro's and con's of the hi lifts?

Do not leave the jack under load with the handle away from the clipped
upright position, if you press the lever down to descend and you have a limb
or your head in the way, the handle will whip up and strike - it hurts
lots!!!!!

Alistair


"Cassillis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi all, looking for a bit of advice on the purchase of a high lift style
> jack. I own a defender 90 and currently have no way of jacking it if I get
> a
> flat.
> What are the pro's and con's of the hi lifts? Where do they attach to the
> vehicle when in use and do I need any add on bits for it, base plate jack
> adapters for a 90 etc?
> Some links to photos of them in use would be a great help too
> Thanks in advance
>
> Graeme
>
>

We have a Jackall with an adaptor that goes on the toe to fit the original
jacking points on our 90. Assume you need one for a Hi-Lift too? We also
have jackallble sills from Rebel 4x4 so you can jack along the side.
For the base I use a square of plywood laminated to the thickness of about
2".
For storage in the back of the 90 I cut about 3" off the end and have it
clamped along the floor under the rear banch seat.
Richard



"Ali" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> What are the pro's and con's of the hi lifts?
>
> Do not leave the jack under load with the handle away from the clipped
> upright position, if you press the lever down to descend and you have a
> limb or your head in the way, the handle will whip up and strike - it
> hurts lots!!!!!
>
> Alistair
>
>
> "Cassillis" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Hi all, looking for a bit of advice on the purchase of a high lift style
>> jack. I own a defender 90 and currently have no way of jacking it if I
>> get a
>> flat.
>> What are the pro's and con's of the hi lifts? Where do they attach to the
>> vehicle when in use and do I need any add on bits for it, base plate jack
>> adapters for a 90 etc?
>> Some links to photos of them in use would be a great help too
>> Thanks in advance
>>
>> Graeme
>>
>>
>
>

On Sat, 6 Aug 2005 07:31:57 +0000 (UTC), "Cassillis"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Hi all, looking for a bit of advice on the purchase of a high lift style
>jack.

ONLY get a hi-lift a close second by a gnats, is the Jackall. The
rest, especially those non-named 'farm jacks' are likely to bend and
potentially kill you...

> I own a defender 90 and currently have no way of jacking it if I get a
>flat.

Yes you do... The one that (should have) came with it.

>What are the pro's and con's of the hi lifts? Where do they attach to the
>vehicle when in use and do I need any add on bits for it, base plate jack
>adapters for a 90 etc?

Pro: they look the business, can be used as log splitters and as an
impromptu winch with a chain. Good at times for de-rutting (lift the
entire front of the vehicle a few feet in the air, then push from the
side...

Con: Think about this carefully. You jack from some part of the
chassis or body - there's suspension, you have to raise a hi-lift VERY
high before you get the wheel off the ground enough to change it. At
that height the vehicle is somewhat unstable.

Better to get a good bottle jack, make a big base for it. You get
this under the axle, lift it a mere couple of inches, change the
wheel.

If you do go for a nice Hi-Lift, the best and only advice you should
take is to READ THE INSTRUCTIONS - if you don't understand them, READ
THEM AGAIN until you do - and keep it very, very well lubed (I use
spray grease twice a year).

If you're anywhere near Sheffield, I have a 4' hi-lift, complete with
a Terrain Master jacking adapter, and Terrain Master spare wheel mount
(designed for a Discovery) up for grabs at 75 quid the lot. Unlike my
5' hi-lift, hasn't been used but has been maintained. My 5' has been
used lots and lots, but only once to change a wheel - then I got a
good bottle jack

I would like to echo mothers comments re hi-lift jacks.
They are wonderfuly versitile (sp) implements in trained hands
and extremely dangerous in untrained hands.
Get one by all means but please learn how to use one properly before risking
lives with one.
For wheel changing i would recomend a good 3 to 5 tonne trolly jack or a
simular rated bottle jack.

On Sat, 06 Aug 2005 21:39:30 GMT, "Shayne" <[email protected]> wrote:

>I would like to echo mothers comments re hi-lift jacks.
>They are wonderfuly versitile (sp) implements in trained hands
>and extremely dangerous in untrained hands.

I find there's only one rule with Hi-lift jacks.

NEVER trust them. Never go underneath a vehicle supported by one,
never rely on one for lifting, never stand near one used as a spreader
etc etc etc.

Alex

I agree. You can change a wheel with one but I hate doing it - had to
do it twice now.

I much prefer using the trolly jack.

Mine is a standard ht 90 with slightly bigger than standard wheels -
when on the end of a Hi-Lift the articulaion seems imense and you feel
as though you are lifting forever. If you have a 2" lift that will
only compund the issues.

if you do get one and you have to change a wheel, try to find a kerb
to rest the un-jacked side of the vehicle agains so that it cant slide
away from you. That said when you doo need it chances are you'll be
in a field and no kerbs about!

Jon

>
>Con: Think about this carefully. You jack from some part of the
>chassis or body - there's suspension, you have to raise a hi-lift VERY
>high before you get the wheel off the ground enough to change it. At
>that height the vehicle is somewhat unstable.
>

On Mon, 8 Aug 2005 07:10:50 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
wrote:

>
>if you do get one and you have to change a wheel, try to find a kerb
>to rest the un-jacked side of the vehicle agains so that it cant slide
>away from you. That said when you doo need it chances are you'll be
>in a field and no kerbs about!


Most seem to agree that the hi lift type is not a safe way of jacking
a vehicle because they are not stable. It's this coupled with the way
the land rover handbrake works that makes the dangerous combination. I
think it's important to engage difflock and put vehicle in a low gear
but don't rely on the hi lift alone. They really come into their own
for jacking a bogged down or stuck vehicle clear of obstacles.

AJH

On or around Mon, 08 Aug 2005 09:00:02 +0200, AJH <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>On Mon, 8 Aug 2005 07:10:50 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>if you do get one and you have to change a wheel, try to find a kerb
>>to rest the un-jacked side of the vehicle agains so that it cant slide
>>away from you. That said when you doo need it chances are you'll be
>>in a field and no kerbs about!
>
>
>Most seem to agree that the hi lift type is not a safe way of jacking
>a vehicle because they are not stable. It's this coupled with the way
>the land rover handbrake works that makes the dangerous combination. I
>think it's important to engage difflock and put vehicle in a low gear
>but don't rely on the hi lift alone. They really come into their own
>for jacking a bogged down or stuck vehicle clear of obstacles.

'tis a fact that they're not really intended for "normal" jacking, I don't
think - the whole design is never going to be stable, in any case.

There's an obvious temptation, though, if the hi-lift is to hand, to grab
that and use it for wheel changing.

You shouldn't, of course, ever go under a vehicle without a fixed support
(wheels, a block or an axle stand).
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Any man's death diminishes me, because I am involved in Mankind; and
therefore never send to know for whom the bell tolls, it tolls for thee"
John Donne (1571? - 1631) Devotions, XVII

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Mon, 08 Aug 2005 09:00:02 +0200, AJH <[email protected]>
> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >On Mon, 8 Aug 2005 07:10:50 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
> >wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>if you do get one and you have to change a wheel, try to find a kerb
> >>to rest the un-jacked side of the vehicle agains so that it cant slide
> >>away from you. That said when you doo need it chances are you'll be
> >>in a field and no kerbs about!
> >
> >


Well Gents, and Ladies if there are any here, Thank you all very much for
the advice. The only jacking i intend to do in this vehicle is to change a
wheel in the event of a flat, so a good quality bottle jack it is then.
Once again thanks.

Graeme

On Sat, 06 Aug 2005 11:38:46 GMT, "Richard" <[email protected]>
wrote:

>We have a Jackall with an adaptor that goes on the toe to fit the original
>jacking points on our 90. Assume you need one for a Hi-Lift too? We also
>have jackallble sills from Rebel 4x4 so you can jack along the side.
>For the base I use a square of plywood laminated to the thickness of about
>2".
>For storage in the back of the 90 I cut about 3" off the end and have it
>clamped along the floor under the rear banch seat.
>Richard
>
>
The 90/110 jack adapter is available for the HiLift as well.

I've used my HiLift for wheel changing on a 90 more times than I can
remember. I don't carry any other jack. It's also been used for
breaking the bead on tube type tyres, to mend a punctured inner tube.

I also have the jackable sills, and have found that jacking up one
side, while completely chocking(sp?) the wheels on the opposite side,
is a lot more secure and confidence inspiring than jacking up a front
or back corner and chocking the opposite corner wheel.

BUT heed the following:

If jacking up a side with the HiLift on a road, or concrete, or other
hard surface, use a pad of something grippy under the HiLift base to
prevent the steel base from slipping away from the vehicle. I have a
pad of tough rubber for this purpose.

Incidentally Richard; how come you had to cut 3" off your HiLift? I
have mine mounted in the same place as yours, and it fitted OK!

Neil

(Reply via NG please)