Hesitant battery change

steve long · Dec 7, 2011

Hi,
My battery goes flat after about two days of none use and as there doesn't seem to be any reason for it (nothing left on and no lights showing) I think it may be at the end of its life. The only thing I have done recently is to change to coil springs. A very kind expert on here told me how to disconnect the EAS lead and jump the pins on the lead to stop the fault signals. That works fine and am pleased with the result. I was very careful not to trap/damage any wires. All the other electrics associated with the EAS such as ride height sensors and dashboard switch were left untouched.
Anyway, back to the battery change. I do not have an EKA code but the locking system works fine. Is it just a case of old battery out, new one in with a window left open just in case, or is it more complicated than that? Thanks in advance.

Saint.V8 · Dec 7, 2011

I would sort out your battery drain before you change the battery....

The most usual suspect is the RF unit picking up spurious signals and waking the BeCM up to check it out....

Temporary solution is to disconnect the blue aerial wire from the RF unit, although this will greatly reduce the effective range of the key fob.

There is a revised unit available that isn't so sensitive to stray RF signals, this should be fitted.

As for changing the battery, you have to cycle the ignition then within 17 seconds disconnect the battery, this process deactivates the alarm sounder as it will think someone is disconnecting the battery in order to nick it....

So it is best to loosen the Negative clamp, cycle the ignition then whip off the negative terminal.

On reconnection, you will need to reset the windows by cycling them one at a time up and down and lkiewise with the sunroof.

You will need to enter the radio code, and resync the key fobs....

On the '95 model, I believe it is a case of putting the key in the door lock and turn to LOCK then press the LOCK button, then turn to UNLOCK and press the UNLOCK button, then put the key in the ignition and start the engine....this should be done with all the keys you have....

But sort the drain out first, as it will only drain a new battery too....

Rick-the-Pick · Dec 7, 2011

All you have to do is unlock the vehicle before you change the battery.
You will have no problems.

Saint.V8 · Dec 7, 2011

Rick, not disputing, all I was doing is quoting the Owners Manual as attached....

I guess it depends on model year and the alrma sounder unit....

steve long · Dec 7, 2011

Thanks for that gents. Think i can manage that. Will let you know how I get on.
Have checked the RF lead and its already been dissconnected. I wonder why?
Have looked on the net and battery prices seem to vary a lot depending on CCA. (and make of course) so what would be a reasonable CCA be without going over the top and which makes are good/bad?

Druim · Dec 7, 2011

Just had my battery off similar car, left it unlocked and no problems after reconnecting as Rick-the-Pick says.
I have coils and the fuse for EAS are removed and no faults showing. (For that anyway)

Datatek · Dec 7, 2011

steve long said:
Thanks for that gents. Think i can manage that. Will let you know how I get on.
Have checked the RF lead and its already been dissconnected. I wonder why?
Have looked on the net and battery prices seem to vary a lot depending on CCA. (and make of course) so what would be a reasonable CCA be without going over the top and which makes are good/bad?

Try Battery megastore Alphaline C31-1000 £98 delivered, 4 year guarantee. 135AH, 1000 Cold Cranking amps. It's the largest battery that will fit. I have no connection with the company,just very happy with my battery. I had no problem changing mine just followed the user manual instructions

If the RF has been disconnected you would be well advised to replace it with the latest version before you have real trouble with locks burning out etc.

Turtled · Dec 7, 2011

Datatek said:
Try Battery megastore Alphaline C31-1000 £98 delivered, 4 year guarantee. 135AH, 1000 Cold Cranking amps. It's the largest battery that will fit. I have no connection with the company,just very happy with my battery. I had no problem changing mine just followed the user manual instructions
If the RF has been disconnected you would be well advised to replace it with the latest version before you have real trouble with locks burning out etc.

My battery has been on its last legs for about a year - particularly when cold, so I've just ordered a new one this morning from Battery Megastore - as per Datatek's spec. The price has gone up a touch - now £99.95. Just a warning though, if you follow the website's battery finder for a P38, you might end up with a battery with terminals the wrong way round - well that was the case for my car anyway. The C31-1000 does not come up automatically, and has 'centre' terminals, but I'm confident my cables will reach. Just go to the search box and type in C31-1000 - sorted.

Now a question.... I'm intrigued about this RF thing.... where is it? And could that be the reason my doors lock and unlock sometimes when I'm driving around??

steve long · Dec 7, 2011

Hello again,
Got a battery from my local car bits shop 740 cca for £87.00. Cant wait for delivery as I need to use it. No problems appart from had to reset windows and sunroof. (never been able to set the sun roof and still cant) Thanks for the advice gents.
Just a point that Druim mentioned - Where exactly is the fuse for the EAS? The main lead/plug to/from it is disconnected and two pins shorted out. I think it was pin 7 and 18..Is this enough?

Druim · Dec 7, 2011

steve long said:
Just a point that Druim mentioned - Where exactly is the fuse for the EAS? The main lead/plug to/from it is disconnected and two pins shorted out. I think it was pin 7 and 18..Is this enough?

Saw one saying EAS in the lid of the box in engine bay and mine is removed, can't help with the shorted pins.

Datatek · Dec 7, 2011

Turtled said:
My battery has been on its last legs for about a year - particularly when cold, so I've just ordered a new one this morning from Battery Megastore - as per Datatek's spec. The price has gone up a touch - now £99.95. Just a warning though, if you follow the website's battery finder for a P38, you might end up with a battery with terminals the wrong way round - well that was the case for my car anyway. The C31-1000 does not come up automatically, and has 'centre' terminals, but I'm confident my cables will reach. Just go to the search box and type in C31-1000 - sorted.

Now a question.... I'm intrigued about this RF thing.... where is it? And could that be the reason my doors lock and unlock sometimes when I'm driving around??

It could, but the tailgate not closing properly can also cause the doors to lock and unlock. If it's the RF receiver, change it quick as it will end up burning the locks

steve long · Dec 7, 2011

Thanks to everyone for your input.

roddy4 · Dec 7, 2011

Turtled said:
My battery has been on its last legs for about a year - particularly when cold, so I've just ordered a new one this morning from Battery Megastore - as per Datatek's spec. The price has gone up a touch - now £99.95. Just a warning though, if you follow the website's battery finder for a P38, you might end up with a battery with terminals the wrong way round - well that was the case for my car anyway. The C31-1000 does not come up automatically, and has 'centre' terminals, but I'm confident my cables will reach. Just go to the search box and type in C31-1000 - sorted.

Now a question.... I'm intrigued about this RF thing.... where is it? And could that be the reason my doors lock and unlock sometimes when I'm driving around??

no this is caused by a loose wire or connection in the drivers door,or at least mine was. mine was a break in the black wire.

Datatek · Dec 7, 2011

roddy4 said:
no this is caused by a loose wire or connection in the drivers door,or at least mine was. mine was a break in the black wire.

That was your problem, mine was the tailgate, for others it's been a duff RF receiver.

StuckAgainSteve · Dec 7, 2011

I hooked my P38 up to a motorcycle battery when changing the battery, no need to reset anything - just be careful not to earth the positive out by accident!

roddy4 · Dec 7, 2011

Datatek said:
That was your problem, mine was the tailgate, for others it's been a duff RF receiver.

yes thinking about it i had lock bounce as well, which was also caused by a break in the wire,also seemed like a dodgy tailgate button,but once i had cured the fault the tailgate button has been fine.

Hesitant battery change

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