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soak it with diesel or similiar then try a hacksaw blade in gap below to clean the crud out . Put a jack under it and leave it awhile if chassis in good condition can chance a bash on the top to assist.
Comes out eventually.
 
There is a post on you tube showing a guy (think a Dutchman) removing his. Home made puller thing and a big fook off breaker bar.
 
I never did get mine out - ended up replacing the internals in situ. When I replaced the chassis I found out why - it was totally corroded in - except where it was exposed behind the crossmember by a bloody great hole...
 
Had a similar experience as above. I was replacing the chassis, so could afford to use a lot of force - but no joy. I cut the chassis away from it in the end.
If you don't really have to remove it, leave it alone. If it really has to come out, then lots of releasing oil over several days, heat the chassis around it and whack it hard, with a piece of wood inbetween the hammer and relay.
 
If you've already got a new one it's fairly easy, if a bit fiddly, to transfer the shaft, spring bushes and top/bottom plates (with the oil seals). Use the new body to help with compressing the spring and hold the bushes in place with some large jubilee clips. I slid it in from underneath and pushed it home with a trolley jack and a piece of pipe bearing on the bush.
 
I jacked up the front of the landrover from the relay...and whacked the crossmember downwards with a 7lb sledge hammer...protected with a lump of 3x3",

Gave it a good socking first...
 
I reckon the barrels are reusable - it retains the bushes and not a lot else. As long as the top and bottom faces are OK so the oil seal retaining plates will fit without leaking, and the ridges that retain the bushes are still there you should be able to reuse it. The shaft moves against the bushes not the barrel.
 
If it is US take the inards out of it and cut the sides with a hacksaw in the same manner we remove spring bushes from chassis you should be able to collapse the outer cast case.
 
Get heat round it and jack it up. Pouring diesel round it will help.

Probably a daft question but all the bolts are out arent they? The 2 on top and 4 beneath
 
I'd swap the parts over in place How to rebuild a steering relay.

You don't want to smash it out as Blackburn suggests, the casting is not cheap and will be stronger than the chassis that its rusted to so I'd say you'd end up needing a new cross member before the casting gave way!

Most difficult parts are getting the rad panel off and its associated wiring and making some suitable spring clamps...

As said elsewhere make sure you've got the retainer plate off the bottom.

If doing all the jacking up/bashing about I'd be tempted to take the gubbins out first anyway.

On my project vehicle I've tried everything but the bastards rusted in tight so it will be an angle grinder job but I'm not fussed about the chassis on that!
 
If you compress the spring and hold the bushes on the shaft with jubilee clips you can push it up from underneath using a suitable sized bit of pipe and a jack - no need to remove the radiator.
 
Well im pi##ed off now . Bought new relay fitted itltoday tried driving it up and down my drive slowly and everything seemed ok then heard a loud noise and lost steering. Top of relay moves but bottom dont. Im guessing the shaft has snapped. I thought this happened to the cheap makes of relay but i boght this from a dealer. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr !!!!!!!
 
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