Help with wiring Defender 90 heated screen

Hi Guys,
Wondering if someone with some wiring knowledge can help me as I am struggling to identify what wire’s I should be using, the instructions aren’t great with the kit I have.

I have a yellow wire that needs fused ignition.
Red orange to a illuminated positive supply.
Black to a negative.

Question is what existing wires are best to use? I can see that the heated rear screen has the Red/orange and a negative could I use these? But I have no idea where to join the yellow.

Many thanks.

Yellow is switched live can take a feed from the radio live or cig lighter as long as it goes off
with the ignition, or the yellow wire under the ignition cowling to key switch.

Heated screens take a fair whack don't they? Guessing in the region of 30-40amps. Make sure whatever you tap into can take the extra load, or go to the battery if you're not sure.
Switched live will need to go to a suitable feed with an inline switch? You don't want it heating up all the time the engine is on

G-P said:

Hi Guys,
Wondering if someone with some wiring knowledge can help me as I am struggling to identify what wire’s I should be using, the instructions aren’t great with the kit I have.

I have a yellow wire that needs fused ignition.
Red orange to a illuminated positive supply.
Black to a negative.

Question is what existing wires are best to use? I can see that the heated rear screen has the Red/orange and a negative could I use these? But I have no idea where to join the yellow.

Many thanks.

Click to expand...

Are the wires in the photo the only ones that came with the kit? None of them look thick enough to be the supply to the screen. Mine is wired up with 6mm2. I would be very careful how you wire it up, these things will melt normal wires in no time.

Was the wiring kit supplied with the screen?

kermit_rr said:

Heated screens take a fair whack don't they? Guessing in the region of 30-40amps. Make sure whatever you tap into can take the extra load, or go to the battery if you're not sure.
Switched live will need to go to a suitable feed with an inline switch? You don't want it heating up all the time the engine is on

Click to expand...

Looking at his pic..is the disconnected plug with the red/orange/green/black wires from the
heated window kit or an oem plug looks like its to a switch.
Ive never fitted one of these but interested as id quite like one too.

Hi all, the kit has a thicker positive that is part of this loom, this goes to the positive on the screen from the battery has a inline fuse. There are also the required relays etc mounted in the battery box.

kevstar said:

Looking at his pic..is the disconnected plug with the red/orange/green/black wires from the
heated window kit or an oem plug looks like its to a switch.
Ive never fitted one of these but interested as id quite like one too.

Click to expand...

Yes all part of the kit and has original LR switch. Bought from Masai

G-P said:

Hi all, the kit has a thicker positive that is part of this loom, this goes to the positive on the screen from the battery has a inline fuse. There are also the required relays etc mounted in the battery box.

Click to expand...

G-P said:

Yes all part of the kit and has original LR switch. Bought from Masai

Click to expand...

If that is the case, you need to find a fused switched live for the yellow, I’m not sure what colour that is off the top of my head, but won’t be hard to find with a multimeter. The red/orange is for the switch illumination and can be piggybacked from one of the other red/orange from the switches in the photo. Make sure your connections are good, and don’t use scotchlocks.

Edit: the black can go to any screw/bolt in the body, but I would try and get it to a black multi plug or bolt/screw that already has earth wires on it.

mick 1986 said:

If that is the case, you need to find a fused switched live for the yellow, I’m not sure what colour that is off the top of my head, but won’t be hard to find with a multimeter. The red/orange is for the switch illumination and can be piggybacked from one of the other red/orange from the switches in the photo. Make sure your connections are good, and don’t use scotchlocks.

Edit: the black can go to any screw/bolt in the body, but I would try and get it to a black multi plug or bolt/screw that already has earth wires on it.

Click to expand...

To find the fused yellow is it just a case of finding a 12v wire with the multimeter? I think the green/white wire on the rear heated screen would work if that’s the case. Thanks

G-P said:

To find the fused yellow is it just a case of finding a 12v wire with the multimeter? I think the green/white wire on the rear heated screen would work if that’s the case. Thanks

Click to expand...

If you turn the ignition on, and find 12V on a wire, then turn the ignition off and the 12v switches off, then you have an ignition live. As to if that’s fused and acceptable to use, I don’t know without actually looking at the circuit. If the yellow wire is only used to power the relay through the new switch, then it shouldn’t make too much of a difference to the circuit as I would expect the relay to only draw something like 30-50mA.

Test the green/white wire to see if it’s ignition switched.

Great thanks Mick.

G-P said:

Great thanks Mick.

Click to expand...

Your welcome. Good luck with it.

TD5 FRONT SCREEN HEATER MAY HELP

Thanks for your help, all up and running now. I managed to put the dash back with no leftover screws as well.