Help with nasty new clunking sound

Hi All,

On my way home tonight my landy developed a somewhat worrying clunking noise when first changing gear.
I put her in first to pull away, no noise until I actually engage the clutch and start to move, then I get a clunking noise, which disappears after a second or so. I change into second and let out the clutch and I get it again, for about a second. This seems to happen in all gears, including overdrive.
It doesn't seem as loud in higher gears, but that may just be it's drowned out more by road noise.
I can only really describe the noise as "clunk clunk clunk". It sounds rotational in nature to my untrained ear and seems like it's coming from either the gear box or rear axle areas (tough to tell as noise tends to travel around the hollow tubes that make up a landy).
For the sake of supplying as much information as possible, I had her in 2WD on the way out, 4WD high box while out and drove back in 2WD. The noise only developed after I'd changed back to 2WD high box after being in 4WD.

At the weekend I'll check things like the oil levels in the various boxes and axles, but since I've not seen a large puddle anywhere I don't think it can be all the oil suddenly fleeing the system.

I realise that trying to diagnose an issue based on a poor description of a noise is, to say the least, an inexact science, but any suggestions would be very welcome.

Thanks in advance!

Sounds like your UJs are going. DO NOT DRIVE ANY FURTHER WITHOUT CHECKING THEM! If one of them goes completely at speed it can be very nasty.

Yeah,sounds like a uj gone on one of the props

Thanks for the suggestion. Yikes.

OK, so a couple of stupid questions.
Firstly, how can I tell if the UJ is going? Is it visible or do I have to remove the props and check the UJ's in some way off the landy?

Secondly, can I get just a new UJ or do I need a new prop shaft if one of them is buggered?

Thanks in advance.

OK, answered my own second question there with a quick check on Paddocks. Yes, I can get new UJ's and based on comments on here Hardy Spicer are the ones to go for.
Sorry for the "panic" response before checking

The first question still stands, can I diagnose the issue without removing the propshaft (I'm guessing from the location of the sounds it's the rear one)?

To add a new question, on a landy with uncertain history (no idea if these have ever been done) should I bite the bullet and just replace the whole propshaft, UJ's included?

you can replace the UJ's seperately its an easy job but a bit fiddly. Its quicker but more expensive to change the prop. Its upto you which you do. You could change the prop the rebuild the old one and keep it as spare?

To check the UJ either get underneath with a big svrewdriver/bar and put it in the UJ and try lever it around, you shouldnt get any movement. If your not sure drop the prop off and manually move the UJ's around by hand to find the dodgy one. They can look good on the vehicle but literally fall apart when you drop the prop off.

If it was me, personally, on an unknown vehicle i would drop the props off inspect the UJ's and slider splines and general condition of the props and give them a good clean, inspection and grease. Its up to you though, depends how much you want to get oyur hands dirty.

I have just done this on my rover, took 3ish hours in the morning (i didnt time or look at the clock), but i was fiddling around, drinking tea and faffing/taking my time doing other things if i cracked on it would be faster

Ed

Make sure when checking ujs that the vehicle wheels are chocked, the hand brake is off and the gearboxes in neutral. Otherwise the car will be "leaning" on the uj making it seem solid....like flat says they can seem fine when there's something holding them but shocking when not.

Swapping the uj's is fairly easy but a bit brutal....I removed the old ones by taking out the circlips and then laying the prop on the floor and bashing the prop with a FBH to force the old ones to come out.
Then clean up the holes with emery and press the new ones home in a decent big vice with a bit of packing material, refit the circlips then give a tap with a mallet each way to seat the bearing caps against the circlips (otherwise they may be a bit tight).

I'd buy and extra couple of ujs as it is easy to drop the needle bearings out and lose them when refitting! and they shouldn't be too dear.

Like flat says a couple or three hours normally but of course there's always the chance that something will get stuck.

Thanks for the advice all. Much appreciated as ever.
I'll have a look at the UJ's when I get home.
Assuming they are the issue then I think I'll get a new prop shaft including UJ's. Based on the (very sensible) suggestion to get a couple of spares in case I cock up (entirely likely) it makes the price much the same to buy a new prop or 4 UJ's.
Yes, I know it's likely to only be one that's currently at fault, but if I'm replacing one it seems to make sense to replace both.
Well, it all makes sense to me anyway and sounds like an approach I can justify to the wife
Time to read up on replacing prop shafts I guess

Replacing a propshaft is literally a doodle, 2 x 14mm ring spanners is all that's needed - don't waste your money on the propshaft tool.

If your taking the propshafts off then it's worth checking your diff pinion oil seal, it isn't much more hassle to change it. Obviously if it doesn't need doing them don't worry! If it's weeping then during a prop change is a good time.

Info here
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/how-replace-diff-pinion-oil-seal-rover-axles-229650.html

Ed

Thinkin about it, you could prob fix your old prop after you have fitted a new one and sell it on eBay to recoup some money

Also, consider the quality of the new shaft....will it be as good as an original? I'm getting so that I prefer to repair an old part than risk an unknown new one...

D

dominicbeesley said:

Make sure when checking ujs that the vehicle wheels are chocked, the hand brake is off and the gearboxes in neutral. Otherwise the car will be "leaning" on the uj making it seem solid....like flat says they can seem fine when there's something holding them but shocking when not.

Swapping the uj's is fairly easy but a bit brutal....I removed the old ones by taking out the circlips and then laying the prop on the floor and bashing the prop with a FBH to force the old ones to come out.
Then clean up the holes with emery and press the new ones home in a decent big vice with a bit of packing material, refit the circlips then give a tap with a mallet each way to seat the bearing caps against the circlips (otherwise they may be a bit tight).

I'd buy and extra couple of ujs as it is easy to drop the needle bearings out and lose them when refitting! and they shouldn't be too dear.

Like flat says a couple or three hours normally but of course there's always the chance that something will get stuck.

Click to expand...

+1 Only thing I'd add is removing prob nuts from the hand brake is a lot easier with a 9/16th prop tool....it means you can whip them off with a ratchet rather than an 1/8th of a turn at a time with the ring spanner only gripping the very end of the nut.....

And it's not like you'll never use it again....believe me

Or use a 1/4 inch socket and an extension bar.

oxides said:

Or use a 1/4 inch socket and an extension bar.

Click to expand...

Yep, done that a few times and got the socket wedged requiring and screwdriver to lever it out.....better than a ring spanner though

blue beasty said:

Yep, done that a few times and got the socket wedged requiring and screwdriver to lever it out.....better than a ring spanner though

Click to expand...

If you take the prop off at the diff end first you can hold it to one side so it opens the gap between the socket and the prop