Help! Injector clamp stud sheared

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G

Graham Carter

Guest
Hi,

I was refitting an injector today, and tightening the clamp down. I was
just about to release the tension on the last pull on the spanner, when the
clamp stud snapped.

It looks to me like the stud can be extracted from the cylinder head. Is
this correct? Anyone know the part number for the replacement stud? Or do
I have to either replace the cylinder head or have it drilled and tapped?

Any advice gratefully received.

Cheers!
Graham Carter.

--
Carter Computer Services (Pvt) Ltd
P.O. Box A1619
Avondale
Harare
Zimbabwe
Tel: +263 4 300082
Cell: +263 91 329310
Fax: +263 918 329310
email:gcarter(at)mweb(dot)co(dot)zw



 
Graham Carter wrote:

> It looks to me like the stud can be extracted from the cylinder head. Is
> this correct?

Any stud CAN be extracted.. "Easy"way is to drill and retap, hard way
(least destruction) is to spark it out with an EDM.

Which engine ? Stud broken flush with the surface ?

Steve
 

"Steve" <steve@thetaylorfamily.org.uk> wrote in message
news:43bd1d3a$0$910$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...
> Graham Carter wrote:
>
> > It looks to me like the stud can be extracted from the cylinder head.
Is
> > this correct?
>
> Any stud CAN be extracted.. "Easy"way is to drill and retap, hard way
> (least destruction) is to spark it out with an EDM.
>
> Which engine ? Stud broken flush with the surface ?
>
> Steve

Hi,

Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is tricky -
the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.

Cheers!
Graham


 
Graham Carter wrote:

> Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is tricky -
> the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.

If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread,
put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner
using the bottom nut.

Regards

William MacLeod

 
willie@macleod-group.com <willie@macleod-group.com> wrote:

> Graham Carter wrote:
>
>> Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is
>> tricky -
>> the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.
>
> If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread,
> put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner
> using the bottom nut.

perhaps after lagging the entire shebang in penetrating oil (plusgas
maybe) for a day or two.

if it's stuck fast there's a good risk of stripping the thread from the
head.

--
William Tasso
 

<willie@macleod-group.com> wrote in message
news:1136470459.394861.148430@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Graham Carter wrote:
>
>> Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is
>> tricky -
>> the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.
>
> If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread,
> put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner
> using the bottom nut.
>
> Regards
>
> William MacLeod

Or, put a nut over the end of the thread and weld on to stud with a mig on a
fairly high power setting and unscrew whilst still hot. Works every time,
for me at least.
Badger.


 

<willie@macleod-group.com> wrote in message
news:1136470459.394861.148430@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> Graham Carter wrote:
>
> > Engine is 300Tdi. Stud still protrudes about 10mm, but access is
tricky -
> > the cylinder head is sculpted around the injector.
>
> If you've still got 10mm of stud protruding just clean up the thread,
> put on two nuts (if necessary cut down) and unthread with a spanner
> using the bottom nut.
>
> Regards
>
> William MacLeod
>
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, this stud is shaped. You have a
thread that goes into the head (I assume). This has like a flange so it
goes in the correct distance. The bit that sicks out then is shaped, and
has a waistlike section without any threads, and then there is the thread
for the clamp nut.

So stud protruding doesn't have any threads, and is about 3/4 the diameter
of the rest of the stud.

My thoughts are a professional stud extractor or weld a nut onto it!

Cheers!
Graham


 
Graham Carter <grahamcarter@hotmail.com> wrote:

> ...
> So stud protruding doesn't have any threads...
>
> My thoughts are a professional stud extractor or weld a nut onto it!

maybe welding on a bolt or t-piece (rather than a nut) if there's enough
room in the immediate location.

--
William Tasso
 
In article <dpjdpi$nbt$1@domitilla.aioe.org>, Graham Carter
<grahamcarter@hotmail.com> writes

>My thoughts are a professional stud extractor or weld a nut onto it!

The latter. At least to start with. Yer proper stud extractor won't do
it either if it's just round bar.

And an afterthought which is probably obvious: block the hole up before
using the welder. having a lump of spatter rattling around inside won't
improve performance but would be a pig to remove (or should that be boar
- see another thread)


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
 
Badger wrote:

> Or, put a nut over the end of the thread and weld on to stud with a mig on a
> fairly high power setting and unscrew whilst still hot. Works every time,
> for me at least.

I'll second that.

Also, contrary to another post here, if you've got enough room for it a
stud extractor will remove the remaining piece.


--
EMB
 
Thanks for the advice on removing the stud. Anyone out there got a parts
manual for the 300Tdi. I need to confirm that I can actually get a
replacement stud.

When you look at the cylinder head, you have the injector, then a threaded
stud (the bit that has broken), and then a small dowel. The clamp fits
round the injector flats at one end, rests on the dowel at the other end.
The broken stud goes through the middle of the clamp, and a nut is used to
clamp the injector in place.

I have had a look on a few sites (Richard's at Bearmend's is one of the
best, shame he can't ship to me here in Zimbabwe (problem with insurance))
and there is a part "ERR1019 - Stud - Injector Clamp". Can anyone with a
parts manual confirm that this is the right part?

Cheers
Graham

> --
> Carter Computer Services (Pvt) Ltd
> P.O. Box A1619
> Avondale
> Harare
> Zimbabwe
> Tel: +263 4 300082
> Cell: +263 91 329310
> Fax: +263 918 329310
> email:gcarter(at)mweb(dot)co(dot)zw
>
>
>


 
On or around Fri, 06 Jan 2006 07:47:37 +1300, EMB <embtwo@gmail.com>
enlightened us thusly:

>Badger wrote:
>
>> Or, put a nut over the end of the thread and weld on to stud with a mig on a
>> fairly high power setting and unscrew whilst still hot. Works every time,
>> for me at least.
>
>I'll second that.
>

yep. done it on a sheared-flush head bolt on a V8, also done it on locking
wheelnuts on the car which some brain-stillborn type had done up far too
tight, with the result that the pins in the key sheared when trying to get
the wheels off. W**kers everywhere, when you look.

Also applies the weld technique to a very tricky littel one in a thermostat
housing on a Reliant 700cc engine. In that case, I used a gas torch and
built up the sheared stud (flush again) with welding rod, before welding a
nut to it. 'twas too small to get a mig to in that case. Either that or it
might have been before I got the mig...
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
0123456789112345678921234567893123456789412345678951234567896123456789712345
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2 bob: it a SigRuler! | check out the weebl and bob archive:
3 weebl: How Handy! | http://www.weebl.jolt.co.uk/archives.php
 
Graham Carter wrote:
> Thanks for the advice on removing the stud. Anyone out there got a parts
> manual for the 300Tdi. I need to confirm that I can actually get a
> replacement stud.
>
>
You can get one made locally - it doesn't need to be more than a short
length of studding.

Steve
 
In message <dpjqim$bea$1@domitilla.aioe.org>
"Graham Carter" <grahamcarter@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the advice on removing the stud. Anyone out there got a parts
> manual for the 300Tdi. I need to confirm that I can actually get a
> replacement stud.
>
> When you look at the cylinder head, you have the injector, then a threaded
> stud (the bit that has broken), and then a small dowel. The clamp fits
> round the injector flats at one end, rests on the dowel at the other end.
> The broken stud goes through the middle of the clamp, and a nut is used to
> clamp the injector in place.
>
> I have had a look on a few sites (Richard's at Bearmend's is one of the
> best, shame he can't ship to me here in Zimbabwe (problem with insurance))
> and there is a part "ERR1019 - Stud - Injector Clamp". Can anyone with a
> parts manual confirm that this is the right part?
>
> Cheers
> Graham

It is the right stud.

Richard


>
> > --
> > Carter Computer Services (Pvt) Ltd
> > P.O. Box A1619
> > Avondale
> > Harare
> > Zimbabwe
> > Tel: +263 4 300082
> > Cell: +263 91 329310
> > Fax: +263 918 329310
> > email:gcarter(at)mweb(dot)co(dot)zw
> >
> >
> >
>
>

--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk sales@beamends-lrspares.co.uk
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Boycott the Yorkshire Dales - No Play, No Pay
 
> > and there is a part "ERR1019 - Stud - Injector Clamp". Can anyone with
a
> > parts manual confirm that this is the right part?
> >
> > Cheers
> > Graham
>
> It is the right stud.
>
> Richard

Thanks Richard.

Knowing that, I went along to a Land Rover independent here in Zim. They
didn't have a new one but found me a second hand one.

All I've got to do now is get the old stud out!

I'll let the group know the results.

Cheers!
Graham Carter


 
A result!!!

Thanks again for all the advice on stud removal. In the end, it came out
really easily. The stud (part ERR1019) has a flange to stop it being
screwed too far into the head. Then there is a narrow section (like a
waist) before the outer set of threads the clam goes through. The stud
broke in the waisted section.

By removing the injector, and the pipes for No 1 and 2 injectors, I could
actually get a grip on the flange with a pair of grips. The stud loosened
without a struggle!!! So I didn't need to find a welder or extractor.
Obviously these studs are designed to be like this. Maybe to stop
overtightening and warping the head.

2nd hand stud only cost Z$500,000 as well!!!

Cheers everyone. Happy 2006 to you all.
Graham Carter

--
Carter Computer Services (Pvt) Ltd
P.O. Box A1619
Avondale
Harare
Zimbabwe
Tel: +263 4 300082
Cell: +263 91 329310
Fax: +263 918 329310
email:gcarter(at)mweb(dot)co(dot)zw




 
On or around Sat, 7 Jan 2006 09:46:43 +0200, "Graham Carter"
<grahamcarter@hotmail.com> enlightened us thusly:

>A result!!!
>
>By removing the injector, and the pipes for No 1 and 2 injectors, I could
>actually get a grip on the flange with a pair of grips. The stud loosened
>without a struggle!!! So I didn't need to find a welder or extractor.
>Obviously these studs are designed to be like this. Maybe to stop
>overtightening and warping the head.
>
>2nd hand stud only cost Z$500,000 as well!!!

today... bet next week it's 550,000 :)

wonder how long that's gonna last - shades of the german economy before
WWII, and people carrying their pay home in wheelbarrows. If you didn't
spend it within a few days it was worthless.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"The woods are lovely, dark and deep. But I have promises to keep,
And miles to go before I sleep."
Robert Frost (1874-1963) from Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening
 
....and Graham Carter spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...

> 2nd hand stud only cost Z$500,000 as well!!!

Is that good or bad?

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)


 
On or around Sat, 7 Jan 2006 17:31:59 -0000, "Richard Brookman"
<newsboy@nowhere.com> enlightened us thusly:

>...and Graham Carter spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...
>
>> 2nd hand stud only cost Z$500,000 as well!!!
>
>Is that good or bad?

they've got inflation there ATM, AIUI. make sour currency look megastable.
not sure they've got to the stage the Weimar replublic had in the 30s yet.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
If all be true that I do think, There are five reasons we should drink;
Good wine, a friend, or being dry, Or lest we should be by and by;
Or any other reason why. - Henry Aldrich (1647 - 1710)
 
....and Austin Shackles spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...


> On or around Sat, 7 Jan 2006 17:31:59 -0000, "Richard Brookman"
> <newsboy@nowhere.com> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> ...and Graham Carter spake unto the tribes of Usenet, saying...
>>
>>> 2nd hand stud only cost Z$500,000 as well!!!
>>
>> Is that good or bad?
>
> they've got inflation there ATM, AIUI. make sour currency look
> megastable. not sure they've got to the stage the Weimar replublic
> had in the 30s yet.

I dunno about their inflation rate. It just that a figure of half a million
and the word "only" didn't seem to sit well together!

Wheelbarrow time.

--
Rich
==============================
Disco 300 Tdi auto
S2a 88" SW
Tiggrr (V8 trialler)


 
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