Help (Again) Clutch bite point

Well was having problems getting reverse and the bit was on the floor (Freelander 1 1800) so today have changed the bracket and the sealed clutch hydraulics.
There is no change, bite is on the floor, still crunching reverse.
Pedal looks ok, as I say also changed the bracket, any ideas or is it new clutch time?
Only had the car a week and its a money pit, nice to drive though.

could try bleeding the clutch system? (think it's in the how to section or do a search)

Thanks for the reply, its a 1800 petrol, it has the sealed master slave which I replaced today, have just noticed I am loosing about 2mm with the bracket bending (was also new today) so perhaps the release arm is stiff, have WD40;d it will try 3in1 tomorrow

you should be able to jiggle the clutch arm by hand a little bit - if it feels totally solid, then it's most likely seized (almost) solid

WD40 dries out - once you've got it going, use something like 3in1 oil to try to keep it lubed up

Thanks for the advice, will put 3in1 on it tonight, having took another look, as the pedal is pressed, the lever moves though there seems to be back pressure as the bracket gives so that's properly how I am loosing release are travel so must be partially seized.
Hope this works or I will be looking for a 'how to' to take the gear box off.

with the 1800 we have found out that to put it into reverse stop wait a second or two and then put it into reverse.

another method - select 3rd before selecting reverse. Aligns the gears a bit better

cheers guys, seems to be a bit better, only have about 1cm of travel in the pedal to the bit. what is 'normal' on these?

Have you bled it at the slave cylinder. Had a bitch of a job bleeding my MGF with a similar setup.

These have a manufacturer sealed system, you cant bleed it, it was replaced at the weekend.

It has defiantly improved, been soaking the release arm in 2in1 for a couple of days have about 2 cm to the bite and its changing gear a lot better. The 3rd to reverse seems to also help. not crunked any gears today. Would just like a higher pedal bit point.

titchfield9 said:

It has defiantly improved,

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Yeah, hippos are like that. They don't wanna be fixed, honest!

titchfield9 said:

These have a manufacturer sealed system, you cant bleed it, it was replaced at the weekend.

Click to expand...

Didn't know you could get a sealed system, could also be the bracket is done. Mine is pretty rusty and I just bought a new one for a Tenner off ebay.

yups, some clever arse in Rover, decided that they'd make the clutch system "Sealed for life, but still needs to be bled, so go **** yourself"


Had the mispleasure of attempting to bleed mine today.....

yes it had the bracket changed at the same time.
Was a doddle to change over just a shame its not solved it.
Will admit the design is not very good, could do with some additional bracing as it flexes and its a genuine Rover one.

well its off to the garage next week for a new clutch, bet I will end up needing a second hand gear box if the arm is seized and cant be released.

I read here someone had a cheap ebay bracket fitted and had your problem. Guess if yours is genuine that shouldn't be the problem though. The MG boys often have to replace the release arm as it gets very rusty,

Well turned out car needed a new clutch but also the sealed master slave I purchased turned out to be faulty.
Had the garage scratching there heads for a bit.

Now I am settling in for a long drawn out fight with the parts supplier.

If you bought it off ebay then no problem, just open a dispute with Paypal and your near guaranteed to win. Otherwise good luck.
Good to hear it's fixed though.

Didn't buy from ebay so its in the hands of Visa.
Its a shame as will need many more parts and will not use this particular company again.