Hello ...and a rust question

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Landy Lavin

Landy Lavin

Member
Posts
11
Location
southampton
Hi all ..

This is my first day here but I have loved looking at some of the advice that has been given.

after 25 years of waiting at last I have a def 110 ... its in wonderful nic. Sadly I am no Machanic so ill be after a few things that I can handle and any advice would be really appreciated.

so here goes my first question and please bare with me if anything sounds a little lame..

The chassis looks like it it is still holding together with minor rust parts, I have noticed all the help with wax oiling and Dinitrol tells us to put on ramp, take wheels off, foil exhaust and paper everything up ... I was wondering just for this year (as it may be raining soon) if it is worth just wire brushing down and painting by hand to help for this winter or will it cause more problems if I miss bits and water then gets trapped by not doing it properly... next year I will probably pay for it to be done professionally but I just want to do something to help now ... even if its just leaving the chassis and doing the inside of the bumper and tow bar ... any advice and if there another make of Waxoyl/ Dinitrol or rust paint I should use ..

thanks in advance
 
Aye Up,

Welcome Lentilist.

I think that protocol on here is to introduce and write a little about yourself in the intro section first.

Re your question, it is a bit like asking how long is a piece of string because what you are going to do with the vehicle between now and the time that you are going to go to town on doing/having the job done properly you haven’t stated.

If for example you are going to dry store it and not use it I would say just leave it until you can do it properly.

If it is going to be stored outside and not used same advice, 12 months is hardly going to make a difference but make sure that it is not stored over long grass and that air can flow under/around it.

If you intend to use it, if you can I would limit journeys to dry weather and especially avoid using it when salt is spread during winter.

In that case the minimum that I would do is get at the chassis with a screwdriver and a wire brush.
Get any flaky paint/underseal and flaky rust off and any road dirt and mud out of chassis crevices, the crud holds water (possibly salty!) where you don’t want it.
Where you can, get to bare metal or at least ‘solid’ rust and then treat it with some rust killer (KURUST. Small bottle, very thin liquid and spreads far, followed by some clear waxoyl in rattle cans or a thin coat of hammerite smooth from a rattle can and do enough to arrest/protect what is effectively a major component of your truck. The waxoyl can be wiped off with thinners next year if you think that it is necessary.

It’s not a long or difficult job depending on how much there is to do and how meticulous you want to be.
I recently did my Disco 1 chassis over several days going to town even on surface rust and observing the specified drying times between KURUST/paint and underseal.

If you do have a go - Make sure that -

The vehicle handbrake is on and effective;
In park if an auto; in 1st or reverse if on an incline (slight incline!);
On-ground wheels are chocked;
If you take any of the wheels off - double the jack up with the right number and strength of axle/chassis stands before getting underneath.

Get some protection/insulation beneath you - old carpet on builders polysheet or mil surplus ground mats.

Use protective clothing/eyewear/gloves/hat etc.
Whatever you wear is likely to get knackered so use some old overalls/hat that you can throw away afterwards.

A good strong light is a necessity but be careful about using mains electric - I used one of those Big Larry LED COB torches. It’s compact for use underneath, has an adjustable light output and a useful strong magnet in the base which means that you can place it exactly where you need it.

Before you start, get underneath and have good look (with the torch) and yer nose to check for any fuel leaks before you go scraping around.

Have fun.
 
Enzian said:
Aye Up,

Welcome Lentilist.

I think that protocol on here is to introduce and write a little about yourself in the intro section first.

Re your question, it is a bit like asking how long is a piece of string because what you are going to do with the vehicle between now and the time that you are going to go to town on doing/having the job done properly you haven’t stated.

If for example you are going to dry store it and not use it I would say just leave it until you can do it properly.

If it is going to be stored outside and not used same advice, 12 months is hardly going to make a difference but make sure that it is not stored over long grass and that air can flow under/around it.

If you intend to use it, if you can I would limit journeys to dry weather and especially avoid using it when salt is spread during winter.

In that case the minimum that I would do is get at the chassis with a screwdriver and a wire brush.
Get any flaky paint/underseal and flaky rust off and any road dirt and mud out of chassis crevices, the crud holds water (possibly salty!) where you don’t want it.
Where you can, get to bare metal or at least ‘solid’ rust and then treat it with some rust killer (KURUST. Small bottle, very thin liquid and spreads far, followed by some clear waxoyl in rattle cans or a thin coat of hammerite smooth from a rattle can and do enough to arrest/protect what is effectively a major component of your truck. The waxoyl can be wiped off with thinners next year if you think that it is necessary.

It’s not a long or difficult job depending on how much there is to do and how meticulous you want to be.
I recently did my Disco 1 chassis over several days going to town even on surface rust and observing the specified drying times between KURUST/paint and underseal.

If you do have a go - Make sure that -

The vehicle handbrake is on and effective;
In park if an auto; in 1st or reverse if on an incline (slight incline!);
On-ground wheels are chocked;
If you take any of the wheels off - double the jack up with the right number and strength of axle/chassis stands before getting underneath.

Get some protection/insulation beneath you - old carpet on builders polysheet or mil surplus ground mats.

Use protective clothing/eyewear/gloves/hat etc.
Whatever you wear is likely to get knackered so use some old overalls/hat that you can throw away afterwards.

A good strong light is a necessity but be careful about using mains electric - I used one of those Big Larry LED COB torches. It’s compact for use underneath, has an adjustable light output and a useful strong magnet in the base which means that you can place it exactly where you need it.

Before you start, get underneath and have good look (with the torch) and yer nose to check for any fuel leaks before you go scraping around.

Have fun.
Click to expand...
Enzian said:
Aye Up,

Welcome Lentilist.

I think that protocol on here is to introduce and write a little about yourself in the intro section first.

Re your question, it is a bit like asking how long is a piece of string because what you are going to do with the vehicle between now and the time that you are going to go to town on doing/having the job done properly you haven’t stated.

If for example you are going to dry store it and not use it I would say just leave it until you can do it properly.

If it is going to be stored outside and not used same advice, 12 months is hardly going to make a difference but make sure that it is not stored over long grass and that air can flow under/around it.

If you intend to use it, if you can I would limit journeys to dry weather and especially avoid using it when salt is spread during winter.

In that case the minimum that I would do is get at the chassis with a screwdriver and a wire brush.
Get any flaky paint/underseal and flaky rust off and any road dirt and mud out of chassis crevices, the crud holds water (possibly salty!) where you don’t want it.
Where you can, get to bare metal or at least ‘solid’ rust and then treat it with some rust killer (KURUST. Small bottle, very thin liquid and spreads far, followed by some clear waxoyl in rattle cans or a thin coat of hammerite smooth from a rattle can and do enough to arrest/protect what is effectively a major component of your truck. The waxoyl can be wiped off with thinners next year if you think that it is necessary.

It’s not a long or difficult job depending on how much there is to do and how meticulous you want to be.
I recently did my Disco 1 chassis over several days going to town even on surface rust and observing the specified drying times between KURUST/paint and underseal.

If you do have a go - Make sure that -

The vehicle handbrake is on and effective;
In park if an auto; in 1st or reverse if on an incline (slight incline!);
On-ground wheels are chocked;
If you take any of the wheels off - double the jack up with the right number and strength of axle/chassis stands before getting underneath.

Get some protection/insulation beneath you - old carpet on builders polysheet or mil surplus ground mats.

Use protective clothing/eyewear/gloves/hat etc.
Whatever you wear is likely to get knackered so use some old overalls/hat that you can throw away afterwards.

A good strong light is a necessity but be careful about using mains electric - I used one of those Big Larry LED COB torches. It’s compact for use underneath, has an adjustable light output and a useful strong magnet in the base which means that you can place it exactly where you need it.

Before you start, get underneath and have good look (with the torch) and yer nose to check for any fuel leaks before you go scraping around.

Have fun.
Click to expand...
Enzian said:
Aye Up,

Welcome Lentilist.

I think that protocol on here is to introduce and write a little about yourself in the intro section first.

Re your question, it is a bit like asking how long is a piece of string because what you are going to do with the vehicle between now and the time that you are going to go to town on doing/having the job done properly you haven’t stated.

If for example you are going to dry store it and not use it I would say just leave it until you can do it properly.

If it is going to be stored outside and not used same advice, 12 months is hardly going to make a difference but make sure that it is not stored over long grass and that air can flow under/around it.

If you intend to use it, if you can I would limit journeys to dry weather and especially avoid using it when salt is spread during winter.

In that case the minimum that I would do is get at the chassis with a screwdriver and a wire brush.
Get any flaky paint/underseal and flaky rust off and any road dirt and mud out of chassis crevices, the crud holds water (possibly salty!) where you don’t want it.
Where you can, get to bare metal or at least ‘solid’ rust and then treat it with some rust killer (KURUST. Small bottle, very thin liquid and spreads far, followed by some clear waxoyl in rattle cans or a thin coat of hammerite smooth from a rattle can and do enough to arrest/protect what is effectively a major component of your truck. The waxoyl can be wiped off with thinners next year if you think that it is necessary.

It’s not a long or difficult job depending on how much there is to do and how meticulous you want to be.
I recently did my Disco 1 chassis over several days going to town even on surface rust and observing the specified drying times between KURUST/paint and underseal.

If you do have a go - Make sure that -

The vehicle handbrake is on and effective;
In park if an auto; in 1st or reverse if on an incline (slight incline!);
On-ground wheels are chocked;
If you take any of the wheels off - double the jack up with the right number and strength of axle/chassis stands before getting underneath.

Get some protection/insulation beneath you - old carpet on builders polysheet or mil surplus ground mats.

Use protective clothing/eyewear/gloves/hat etc.
Whatever you wear is likely to get knackered so use some old overalls/hat that you can throw away afterwards.

A good strong light is a necessity but be careful about using mains electric - I used one of those Big Larry LED COB torches. It’s compact for use underneath, has an adjustable light output and a useful strong magnet in the base which means that you can place it exactly where you need it.

Before you start, get underneath and have good look (with the torch) and yer nose to check for any fuel leaks before you go scraping around.

Have fun.
Click to expand...
 
hey hey .

I knew I would get the joining bit wrong . im not computer literate at the best of times.

Thank you so much . It will be used daily through the winter (ive still got a permanent grin when im in it) so yes I will attempt this ..... I did see some blue liquid but im not sure that can do the whole chassis but ill have a look at this KURUST .. im happy to spend time slowly painting it on . its the compressor air bushing idea that scared me lol..

Thanks again

I guess ill have a look at the joining part again ..
 
Aye Up,

It is most likely that the chassis nearer to the front is less affected by rust than the rear, shed oil from the engine and transmission, plus heat from those sources plus the exhaust drying things out quickly.

Towards the rear less oil shed/heat plus water thrown backwards under the body so more likely to be rust in that area, so you probably won’t be treating the entire chassis just patches in certain areas. Check out this site for where 110 owners identify common rust areas - or do a quick post asking if you don’t find anything in the search.

The KURUST comes in what appears to be a stupidly small bottle but it is very thin and spreads far.
Don’t overload the brush or it will end up down your sleeve!! (I only used two bottles on a 22 year old Disco).

You don’t need a compressor, you can achieve what I have stated just from spray cans.
(I used only one time of Hammerite Smooth brushable and six tins (from the inet) of spray underseal with waxoyl).
If you can, work from one end of the vehicle to the other scraping/cleaning;
Then one end to the other rust killing;
Then one end to the other painting;
Then one end to the other undersealing if you want to use it.
This way you use a can of paint/underseal from full to empty and don’t have to worry about the valves getting clogged.

A couple of things that I forgot to mention -
i) Get under the truck first with a screwdriver and seek out any crud (lumps of it!) in chassis crevices and along the tops of the chassis rails, dig them out and then take the truck to a jet wash and blast the whole of the underneath to get as much surface road dirt off the chassis as possible. Do this asap before the warm-ish weather changes so that it can dry out for a few days.

ii) Have a good look at your brake pipes and hoses and check them for corrosion/perishing - don’t just spray over a problem - note it and address either by light sanding and repainting if its just surface rust or replacing if corrosion is bad.

:)
 
Enzian said:
Aye Up,

It is most likely that the chassis nearer to the front is less affected by rust than the rear, shed oil from the engine and transmission, plus heat from those sources plus the exhaust drying things out quickly.

Towards the rear less oil shed/heat plus water thrown backwards under the body so more likely to be rust in that area, so you probably won’t be treating the entire chassis just patches in certain areas. Check out this site for where 110 owners identify common rust areas - or do a quick post asking if you don’t find anything in the search.

The KURUST comes in what appears to be a stupidly small bottle but it is very thin and spreads far.
Don’t overload the brush or it will end up down your sleeve!! (I only used two bottles on a 22 year old Disco).

You don’t need a compressor, you can achieve what I have stated just from spray cans.
(I used only one time of Hammerite Smooth brushable and six tins (from the inet) of spray underseal with waxoyl).
If you can, work from one end of the vehicle to the other scraping/cleaning;
Then one end to the other rust killing;
Then one end to the other painting;
Then one end to the other undersealing if you want to use it.
This way you use a can of paint/underseal from full to empty and don’t have to worry about the valves getting clogged.

A couple of things that I forgot to mention -
i) Get under the truck first with a screwdriver and seek out any crud (lumps of it!) in chassis crevices and along the tops of the chassis rails, dig them out and then take the truck to a jet wash and blast the whole of the underneath to get as much surface road dirt off the chassis as possible. Do this asap before the warm-ish weather changes so that it can dry out for a few days.

ii) Have a good look at your brake pipes and hoses and check them for corrosion/perishing - don’t just spray over a problem - note it and address either by light sanding and repainting if its just surface rust or replacing if corrosion is bad.

:)
Click to expand...

There's some good advice above ^^ - apart from the underseal bit - Underseal is a death sentence - do NOT use it - even the mention of it should be a capital offence :p ;)

Proper Preparation Prevents P*ss Poor Performance !

Prep is EVERYTHING.

Dinitrol and or Bilt Hamber products are the best. Waxoyl is a waste of your time. ( now - used to be good ).

The inside of the chassis is worse than the outside - and will need serious cleaning / rinsing out and rust treating to suit.

My preference for rust converters is Fertan - which requires water to work ( oh the irony ). It can be air sprayed, or pressure sprayed ( think garden sprayer ), or brushed on.

BH's Dynax wax is great in an aerosol - heat the can in hot water before use.

Here's a pic of my sill on my D1 - fitted 4 years ago, and simply sprayed with BH Dynax S50 Cavity wax...
sill.jpg

I'd suggest this is a good result :)
 
Fook me, you after the longest reply award!?:eek::D

As mentioned prep is key. Don’t seal any crud in or itl be worse next year. Little bit thoroughly is better than all done ****e and sealing rot in.

Kurust is good stuff but few coats be thorough, just wear gloves and don’t breathe it in - like old tippex but way stronger

Welcome :)
 
Disco1BFG said:
There's some good advice above ^^ - apart from the underseal bit - Underseal is a death sentence - do NOT use it - even the mention of it should be a capital offence :p ;)

Proper Preparation Prevents P*ss Poor Performance !

Prep is EVERYTHING.

Dinitrol and or Bilt Hamber products are the best. Waxoyl is a waste of your time. ( now - used to be good ).

The inside of the chassis is worse than the outside - and will need serious cleaning / rinsing out and rust treating to suit.

My preference for rust converters is Fertan - which requires water to work ( oh the irony ). It can be air sprayed, or pressure sprayed ( think garden sprayer ), or brushed on.

BH's Dynax wax is great in an aerosol - heat the can in hot water before use.

Here's a pic of my sill on my D1 - fitted 4 years ago, and simply sprayed with BH Dynax S50 Cavity wax...View attachment 190105
I'd suggest this is a good result :)
Click to expand...


THIS!^
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Fook me, you after the longest reply award!?:eek:
Click to expand...

Yep!! What do I win ??!!?? - Any Cake involved ....:D

I just thought I'd sort it, once and for all:) - It's been done to death on here, and we get to see such great results with a certain D3 .... and a certain D2, and also our D1's .... BH / Dinitrol stuff obviously works...

Plus, I hate rust ! :)
 
RangeRoller dt said:
Fook me, you after the longest reply award!?:eek::D

As mentioned prep is key. Don’t seal any crud in or itl be worse next year. Little bit thoroughly is better than all done ****e and sealing rot in.

Kurust is good stuff but few coats be thorough, just wear gloves and don’t breathe it in - like old tippex but way stronger

Welcome :)
Click to expand...

No pal, not after the longest answer award, just helping a new bloke out who I noticed hadn’t had a response for the best part of 7 hours. Maybe you should open your eyes before your mouth.
 
Disco1BFG said:
Yep!! What do I win ??!!?? - Any Cake involved ....:D

I just thought I'd sort it, once and for all:) - It's been done to death on here, and we get to see such great results with a certain D3 .... and a certain D2, and also our D1's .... BH / Dinitrol stuff obviously works...

Plus, I hate rust ! :)
Click to expand...

It’s brilliant stuff. Really is. In my experience I’d also go fertan or the BH equivalent for your neutralizing also. BH are real geeks with the lab results to back it all up
 
resto_d1 said:
It’s brilliant stuff. Really is. In my experience I’d also go fertan or the BH equivalent for your neutralizing also. BH are real geeks with the lab results to back it all up
Click to expand...

And they'll speak to the likes of us quite happily about our "projects" and offer practical advise too. :)
 
Hi and welcome!

Dinitrol is the best from my experience. My disco 2 chassis was like new after four years when this was applied. But as said, preparation is key, make sure all rust is removed first.
 
Thank you all ...

I only managed to get two coats of the Krust on the tow bar and back end before the heavens opened up .... i can see myself spending a while under it now I'm kinda getting more obsessed of underneath than on top .... sadly rain is in for a week now from what I can see...
 
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