Heater
- Thread starter Robin1998
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neilly
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Has been discussed a few times, and at least once recently.
Altho, have to say my 90 heater works really well......
Are you sure yours is set up correctly?
Cheers
Altho, have to say my 90 heater works really well......
Are you sure yours is set up correctly?
Cheers
Sorry forgot to say it’s an 300tdi seems like It’s all set up okay do about 11 miles each way to work and doesn’t get hot in the cab So was thinking of a electric heater to go inHas been discussed a few times, and at least once recently.
Altho, have to say my 90 heater works really well......
Are you sure yours is set up correctly?
Cheers
neilly
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- Oxfordshireness
Does the fan work?
Will it change speed as it is meant to?
Is there hot air coming out of the outlet in the cab by your knees when it is set to come out of it?
Do the slide controls actually change what they are meant to?
Cheers
Will it change speed as it is meant to?
Is there hot air coming out of the outlet in the cab by your knees when it is set to come out of it?
Do the slide controls actually change what they are meant to?
Cheers
Retroanaconda
Well-Known Member
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- SW Scotland
All of the above, plus:
Is the heater box full of holes?
Are the seals shot?
Is the matrix blocked with dirt/detritus?
Is the engine getting up to temperature (thermostat)?
After 4 or 5 miles of normal open road driving a Tdi should be up to temperature. The air coming out of the vents should be hot enough to start to hurt your hand if held there on the high fan speed for a little while.
Is the heater box full of holes?
Are the seals shot?
Is the matrix blocked with dirt/detritus?
Is the engine getting up to temperature (thermostat)?
After 4 or 5 miles of normal open road driving a Tdi should be up to temperature. The air coming out of the vents should be hot enough to start to hurt your hand if held there on the high fan speed for a little while.
My 300tdi barely gets warm on cold days.
I've just taken to wearing two layers of socks and a scarf.
One day I'll endeavour to sort properly, but I only ever remember about it when it's cold and I don't want to be outside.
Litch
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- Oxfordshire
That time of year again when people suddenly decide that the heater doesn't work but as "they all do that" an expensive and/or complicated solution is required.......
As already stated by several helpful posts, the standard heater is more than up to the job when the cooling system is working as it should and the heater is set up correctly.
If your journey is under 5-miles then it is unlikely that the engine will reach normal operating temperature and therefore you may need to look in to a pre-heater but at anything over this then you should be nice and toasty without resorting to multiple layers, carry out the normal checks and adjustments first and you may just find that all is well.
There are of course many other factors what will reduce the performance of even the best heater. If there are gaps around the doors, the vent-flaps don't shut or a howling gale through holes in the floor then you are on a hiding to nothing. After that, consider if you need to heat the whole interior or just the front driving compartment? Now the cooler mornings are with us I have just fitted the fume curtain to my 300TDi 90 soft-top daily driver and the heater is very effective, this is despite there not being a single piece of sound deadening or carpet (i.e. insulation) to be seen.
As already stated by several helpful posts, the standard heater is more than up to the job when the cooling system is working as it should and the heater is set up correctly.
If your journey is under 5-miles then it is unlikely that the engine will reach normal operating temperature and therefore you may need to look in to a pre-heater but at anything over this then you should be nice and toasty without resorting to multiple layers, carry out the normal checks and adjustments first and you may just find that all is well.
There are of course many other factors what will reduce the performance of even the best heater. If there are gaps around the doors, the vent-flaps don't shut or a howling gale through holes in the floor then you are on a hiding to nothing. After that, consider if you need to heat the whole interior or just the front driving compartment? Now the cooler mornings are with us I have just fitted the fume curtain to my 300TDi 90 soft-top daily driver and the heater is very effective, this is despite there not being a single piece of sound deadening or carpet (i.e. insulation) to be seen.
blue beasty
Leaks an prone to bits dropping off
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Ive just ordered a bilge blower, the heat in the cab of my ambulance is fine but demisting is atrocious.
That time of year again when people suddenly decide that the heater doesn't work but as "they all do that" an expensive and/or complicated solution is required.......
As already stated by several helpful posts, the standard heater is more than up to the job when the cooling system is working as it should and the heater is set up correctly.
If your journey is under 5-miles then it is unlikely that the engine will reach normal operating temperature and therefore you may need to look in to a pre-heater but at anything over this then you should be nice and toasty without resorting to multiple layers, carry out the normal checks and adjustments first and you may just find that all is well.
There are of course many other factors what will reduce the performance of even the best heater. If there are gaps around the doors, the vent-flaps don't shut or a howling gale through holes in the floor then you are on a hiding to nothing. After that, consider if you need to heat the whole interior or just the front driving compartment? Now the cooler mornings are with us I have just fitted the fume curtain to my 300TDi 90 soft-top daily driver and the heater is very effective, this is despite there not being a single piece of sound deadening or carpet (i.e. insulation) to be seen.
Do those fume curtains seal well?
I tried the bulge blower on mine it was pants, new fan+motor cured the poor air flow nicely.
All the comments on setting it up are the way to go, I put up with mine for 3 yrs before looking at it properly!
Slide the heater to hot, lift bonnet see the top cable? unclip the spring clip widget and move the cable OUTER towards the left side of the vehicle by about 1/4 of an inch, refit clip and then test with hot engine, this transformed mine, what was happening if the flap closed to ho position but didnt fully close so you got luke warm air at best.
Litch
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- Oxfordshire
"Do those fume curtains seal well?"
Mine is a soft-top and therefore the fume curtain fits around the front hoop and while there are some small gaps these are insignificant in the scheme of things and the difference is considerable.
Compare heating a truck-cab against a hard-top.
Mine is a soft-top and therefore the fume curtain fits around the front hoop and while there are some small gaps these are insignificant in the scheme of things and the difference is considerable.
Compare heating a truck-cab against a hard-top.
steveyorks
Well-Known Member
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- 817
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- west yorks
I had a Webasto diesel fuelled night heater fitted in my last Landy; they are not dependent on the engine temp so can run hot immediately.I would describe the output as being like a normal household fan heater. It made a massive difference to the car, hot from start, dried out all the leaks and very cheap to run although not cheap to buy. They do come up on ebay from time to time.
Last edited:
the murfster
Member
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- tamworth
Night heater like you have in trucks,instant heat on tap.
Not cheap though to buy 12 volt.
Not cheap though to buy 12 volt.
Mine too and it neds a new roof so I'm thinking soft top truck cab or bikini top and fume curtain, the latter because it would be easier to strip down in the summer. It's my daily drive and I'm dubious about bikini/curtian in the depths of winter.
