heater blower fan

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

dag019

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,155
Location
Warwick
My blower fan is not working correctly despite working fine on a bench test during the rebuild. After some diagnosis I have two problems. First one is in removing the plug one of the bullets snapped off in the loom side so I need a new plug to solder onto that piece of loom (not the main loom the resistor loom), not a major issue.

The more pressing issue is that the motor does not appear to be working correctly. On hooking the current fitted motor direct to the battery it did not start immediately, and with a knock it then did start but did not spin as fast as fast as I was expecting.

I have removed the motor assembly form my burnt out on and on bench testing it it works no problem and when hooked direct to the batter spins much faster than the current one fitted and when hooked into the vehicle loom spins much faster than the one fitted.

My plan is to repair the wiring loom with a new plug and then try and fit the spare motor from the fire damaged unit.

My question is how much do I need to remove to be able to get the motor out. If I unbolt the heater box from the bulkhead, remove the intake duct from the wing, is there enough space to move it forward far enough to get the motor assembly out without having to remove the wing?
 
My blower fan is not working correctly despite working fine on a bench test during the rebuild. After some diagnosis I have two problems. First one is in removing the plug one of the bullets snapped off in the loom side so I need a new plug to solder onto that piece of loom (not the main loom the resistor loom), not a major issue.

The more pressing issue is that the motor does not appear to be working correctly. On hooking the current fitted motor direct to the battery it did not start immediately, and with a knock it then did start but did not spin as fast as fast as I was expecting.

I have removed the motor assembly form my burnt out on and on bench testing it it works no problem and when hooked direct to the batter spins much faster than the current one fitted and when hooked into the vehicle loom spins much faster than the one fitted.

My plan is to repair the wiring loom with a new plug and then try and fit the spare motor from the fire damaged unit.

My question is how much do I need to remove to be able to get the motor out. If I unbolt the heater box from the bulkhead, remove the intake duct from the wing, is there enough space to move it forward far enough to get the motor assembly out without having to remove the wing?
It’s a pita. Unbolt from bulkhead remove the intake etc. likely siliconed gasket to bulkhead etc. then once you have wrestled it from the engine bay you’ll want to rebuild it. New heater to bulkhead seal etc. iirc you need to remove the washer bottle and frame. I’m surprised no one has developed an ally substitute with a better motor. Oh and there is the heater matrix to undo. You can continue to drive the LR by bypassing the matrix whilst you work on the thing. Don’t bust off the cable adjusters either. Refit is the reverse.
 
It’s a pita. Unbolt from bulkhead remove the intake etc. likely siliconed gasket to bulkhead etc. then once you have wrestled it from the engine bay you’ll want to rebuild it. New heater to bulkhead seal etc. iirc you need to remove the washer bottle and frame. I’m surprised no one has developed an ally substitute with a better motor. Oh and there is the heater matrix to undo. You can continue to drive the LR by bypassing the matrix whilst you work on the thing. Don’t bust off the cable adjusters either. Refit is the reverse.
It has just had the heater box rebuilt after the fire (link) hence how I know the motor worked on the bench but I had nothing to compare it to so think when tested it was weak then compared to the old one. And yes the gasket is siliconed to the bulkhead so I know I will need a new one of those. I have an underwing washer bottle so don’t think I will need to remove that. But you have confirmed that I don’t need to take the wing off which is good news!
 
Last edited:
No need to remove wings etc. you will need an extra pair of hands or some mole grips as it’s difficult to get at both the nuts and bolts if they are no captive.
I had already worked out I would need a willing volunteer (read reluctant wife) to hold a spanner in the footwell!
 
Back
Top