heated windscreen fitted!

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NiallRussell

Well-Known Member
Posts
619
Location
Dorset, UK
I know some people might be in a simular positon to me - winter coming and thinking about a heated scree. Just did mine and it went surprisingly well.

1) cut out the old screen. I did this with a sharpe knife along the little inwards ridge on the seal, do the screen can 'pop' out. You need to do almost the whole way round the screen for it to come out.

2) fit the new seal to the screen. Make sure you see which way round it goes - don't spend ages getting it on and then find out you've wasted your time like I did.

3) There are three 'groves' on the seal. One for the glass, one in between that you leave empty (it has a small flap that folds down when the screen is pressed into the frame) and one to fit around the frame lip. Once the glass is in, put some cord through the frame groove. Wet the cord (4mm-5mm), it will slip in/out much easier.

4) Grease the frame and seal with washing up liquid (or something) very liberally. Now get to work. Offer up the screen to the frame and try to get the bottom edge / corners pushed into the frame as far as possible. Now offer up the rest as far as it will go.

5) with someone else providing pressure from the outside, pull the cord out of the seal from the inside and the seal will lift over the frame. Go all the way round. I put my cord in and left two 'handles' out at either end so I could do a bit one side and then the other, so I wasn't pulling the screen out one side.

6) Now you will probably have to 'tap' the screen home. Hopefully this will only need to be done on the sides and top, not the bottom (as the lip under the screen makes it hard to see / 'tap' the seal without damaging things). I used a rubber hammer and a piece of wood and took my time. In the end I was 'tapping' with some force and eventually got the screen home all the way round.

Took me 2 hours - I'm not a fast worker.

Oh and I bought a genuine seal from landrover on advice from others and when the screen came with it's cheap seal I was glad I did, the LR seal has real flex and I'm pleased I spent the money.
 
I've been thinking off doing this myself was going to get one national windscreen firms to do it for me but may attempt myself now after reading this. Do you need to take the top dash rail off? Also where did you get your screen from?
 
I took the top of the dash off, had to for the wiring, but to be honest I could have done it with it on. Mine took me 2 minutes to remove as it's very very old.

Got the screen in a kit from paddocks. There are cheaper ones around, you can buy a screen and then make up the wiring kit yourself if you want to save money.
 
Sounds good, my only criticism is to not use washing up liquid but as I did - tyre soap. And if you remove the frame from the vehicle it's even easier.
 
interesting. I've never seen it done that way, i'm sure you might be right.

I have to say the satifaction of finishing nearly all of my autum jobs is as warm as my palm against my new heated screen. Now I just have to deal with that rusty spot. how hard can it be...
 
My other cars have been Fords for many years and so I have enjoyed the heated screen pleasure for many years. I have toyed with the idea of a heated screen in my Defender. What about the electrical kit and installation? can you post a step by step of what you did please? :)
 
the paddocks kit is all made up and was very very easy. All the bits come fitted and crimped, with fuses and connectors where you want them.

Top dash removed and the space for the 'box-o-tricks' goes somewhere inside. It's sealed and small and is happy most anywhere dry and secure.

There is a thickish wire that went through the bulkhead that I screwed onto the alternator. I had enough wire to go round the outside of the engine bay and cable tied it all out of the way. That is the only wire going through the bulk head.

There is another thick wire for the screen and I found a small rubber 'plug' for it to go through to the channel that runs between the top dash and the wind screen seal. The plug was in the middle but there is more than enough wire to come out and go to the left hand side of the screen out of the way.

The negative end of the screen wiring is a little more challenging and depends on what you've got set up. My dash is completely mutated over the 33 years the car has been alive, so I had some earth wires that bolt to a metal point where the front flap controls would be (mine is a 110 AC bulkhead so doesn't have them) for 12volt sockets, radio, etc. (FYI I then back this up with another wire going to a engine earth point, just in case). The small wire for the earth or right side of the screen reached this junction through a small gap in the dash out of sight.

The switch is a carling / ARB size. I cut a new hole in my raptor dash thingy and plugged it in. There is another wire to connect to a point/wire that is live when the headlights are on so the switch lights up in the dark, but I didn't bother with that. Having wired it without a relay through the ignition means it can be switched on without the engine running, but I'm happy with that, also I have a battery isolator which is the last thing I switch off before getting out of the cab.

As I said it all came in a kit pre-assembled. If you have to lengthen anything it would only be the earth from the screen that goes onto the body somewhere.

I'd attach a photo, but everything is done now, and all out of sight.
 
Easy earths are each end of the dash using the 13mm headed bolts that hold the screen to the bulkhead.
 
the paddocks kit is all made up and was very very easy. All the bits come fitted and crimped, with fuses and connectors where you want them.

Top dash removed and the space for the 'box-o-tricks' goes somewhere inside. It's sealed and small and is happy most anywhere dry and secure.

There is a thickish wire that went through the bulkhead that I screwed onto the alternator. I had enough wire to go round the outside of the engine bay and cable tied it all out of the way. That is the only wire going through the bulk head.

There is another thick wire for the screen and I found a small rubber 'plug' for it to go through to the channel that runs between the top dash and the wind screen seal. The plug was in the middle but there is more than enough wire to come out and go to the left hand side of the screen out of the way.

The negative end of the screen wiring is a little more challenging and depends on what you've got set up. My dash is completely mutated over the 33 years the car has been alive, so I had some earth wires that bolt to a metal point where the front flap controls would be (mine is a 110 AC bulkhead so doesn't have them) for 12volt sockets, radio, etc. (FYI I then back this up with another wire going to a engine earth point, just in case). The small wire for the earth or right side of the screen reached this junction through a small gap in the dash out of sight.

The switch is a carling / ARB size. I cut a new hole in my raptor dash thingy and plugged it in. There is another wire to connect to a point/wire that is live when the headlights are on so the switch lights up in the dark, but I didn't bother with that. Having wired it without a relay through the ignition means it can be switched on without the engine running, but I'm happy with that, also I have a battery isolator which is the last thing I switch off before getting out of the cab.

As I said it all came in a kit pre-assembled. If you have to lengthen anything it would only be the earth from the screen that goes onto the body somewhere.

I'd attach a photo, but everything is done now, and all out of sight.
That's a great description. No need for photo's.
Many thanks.
 
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