Headlights

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J

John Oakes

Guest
Hello All.
I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker
rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version
75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice
headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping.
--
-
Compliments

John N Oakes
Manchester, England.

=============================
! Nightshift Morlock Worker!
! Landrover 110 V8 1988 !
! Atari/Win/Mac User !
=============================
 
John Oakes wrote:
> Hello All.
> I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker
> rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version
> 75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice
> headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping.

The fuse is rated to protect the cable so don't uprate the fuse or you
run the risk of burned out cables and maybe a fire.

If the lights are dimming or flickering on tickover then check the
alternator/dynamo belt tension. If your vehicle (you don't say what it
is) is fitted with a dynamo then I'd expect tat to happen anyway.

HTH

--
Regards

Steve G
 
I upgraded my headlamps (never realised what **** poor efforts them sealed
beams was before) however with regards to fuses I hold the original wiring
system in utter contempt and have bypassed the original fusebox with an
alternative using blade fuses

(and if the insurance world don't like it they can go F themselves ((if they
have the agilitity)) .....)


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes


"John Oakes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello All.
> I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker
> rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version
> 75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice
> headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping.
> --
> -
> Compliments
>
> John N Oakes
> Manchester, England.
>
> =============================
> ! Nightshift Morlock Worker!
> ! Landrover 110 V8 1988 !
> ! Atari/Win/Mac User !
> =============================


 


SteveG <"s.goodfellow"@blueyonder dot> wrote:
> John Oakes wrote:
>
>> Hello All.
>> I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker
>> rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version
>> 75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice
>> headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping.
>
>
> The fuse is rated to protect the cable so don't uprate the fuse or you
> run the risk of burned out cables and maybe a fire.
>
> If the lights are dimming or flickering on tickover then check the
> alternator/dynamo belt tension. If your vehicle (you don't say what it
> is) is fitted with a dynamo then I'd expect tat to happen anyway.
>
> HTH
>
Hello Steve.
My 110 v8 1988 headlight problem all check okay. Would
dipping affect be a sign of the slackness in the belt tension of alternator.
--
-
Compliments

John N Oakes
Manchester, England.

=============================
! Nightshift Morlock Worker!
! Landrover 110 V8 1988 !
! Atari/Win/Mac User !
=============================
 
John Oakes wrote:
>
> SteveG <"s.goodfellow"@blueyonder dot> wrote:
>
>> John Oakes wrote:
>>
>>> Hello All.
>>> I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker
>>> rusting screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version
>>> 75/50w. Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice
>>> headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping.
>>
>> The fuse is rated to protect the cable so don't uprate the fuse or you
>> run the risk of burned out cables and maybe a fire.
>>
>> If the lights are dimming or flickering on tickover then check the
>> alternator/dynamo belt tension. If your vehicle (you don't say what it
>> is) is fitted with a dynamo then I'd expect tat to happen anyway.
>>
>> HTH
>>
> Hello Steve.
> My 110 v8 1988 headlight problem all check okay. Would
> dipping affect be a sign of the slackness in the belt tension of
> alternator.

It could be an indication that all is well. If the alternator is
demanding more power from the engine than the engine can provide at
idling speed and the belt does not slip it will 'pull the engine down'.

Full beam and an idling engine are not a common combination so not much
to worry about. Increase your idling speed a bit if it concerns you.
 
John Oakes wrote:
>

>>
> Hello Steve.
> My 110 v8 1988 headlight problem all check okay. Would
> dipping affect be a sign of the slackness in the belt tension of
> alternator.

I agree with Dougal - just forgot to include that thought in my original
response. There's probably nothing wrong at all. As a peace of mind
check I'd measure the charging current at idle with dipped beam on and
as long as that is positive (i.e. the battery is still getting a charge)
then I'd be happy.

--
Regards

Steve G
 
Hi,

I suspect your wiring will cope with 100 watts, so no problem with simply
putting th eheadlights straight in. I had problems with wiring 150w
spotlights into a Discovery and had to use a relay in the end to stop wires
melting, but that was a combined 300 watts which is fairly meaty.

If you have any doubts about your wring put in a cheap relay form Halfords,
about 12 pounds.

You will not blow any fuses, however, if you do simply put the next step
fuse in. If running 10, then put a 15 in.

I really cannot see any problems though.

I suspect the headlights goign dull on idling has more to do with your
alternator and I suspect you need to upgrade it to a higher output.

Yours

Andrew

P.S. Still trying to get my 110 ready for Africa in six months time. You
should try wiring in , banks of rear and front spotlights, fridge, GPS,
three cigarette lighters and interior lights.


"John Oakes" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hello All.
> I have just had fun replacing my Headlights with knacker rusting
> screws to boot.:( My old ones were 60/55w for sealed version 75/50w.
> Question is do I need to change any fuses to cope. As I notice
> headlamps on full beam on enginge idle dipping.
> --
> -
> Compliments
>
> John N Oakes
> Manchester, England.
>
> =============================
> ! Nightshift Morlock Worker!
> ! Landrover 110 V8 1988 !
> ! Atari/Win/Mac User !
> =============================


 
On or around Sun, 26 Jun 2005 08:29:38 GMT, "Andrew Renshaw"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Hi,
>
>I suspect your wiring will cope with 100 watts, so no problem with simply
>putting th eheadlights straight in.

The 110 headlight switch carries all the headlamp current and is marginal.
Running 60+55 on mine caused it to overheat and fail - note that if you run
a trailer with side marker lamps all that is running through the switch too.

If as I read it you've replaced your 2x60W beams with 2x75W, then I doubt
that's enough to overload it. Putting spots on as well might.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".
 
On Sun, 26 Jun 2005 08:29:38 GMT, Andrew Renshaw wrote:

> three cigarette lighters ...

Smoke a lot do we? I think I'd use almost any other high current
conector in preferance to ciggy lighters. 'orrible things work as
lighters even when used for just a power connection...

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail



 


Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Sun, 26 Jun 2005 08:29:38 GMT, "Andrew Renshaw"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
>>Hi,
>>
>>I suspect your wiring will cope with 100 watts, so no problem with simply
>>putting th eheadlights straight in.
>
>
> The 110 headlight switch carries all the headlamp current and is marginal.
> Running 60+55 on mine caused it to overheat and fail - note that if you run
> a trailer with side marker lamps all that is running through the switch too.
>
> If as I read it you've replaced your 2x60W beams with 2x75W, then I doubt
> that's enough to overload it. Putting spots on as well might.
>
Hello Austin.
Yes just a straight change over huh straight with a small
very small s. I was thinking of putting spots on but thought sod it.
Thank for the reassurance everyone. ;)
--
-
Compliments

John N Oakes
Manchester, England.

=============================
! Nightshift Morlock Worker!
! Landrover 110 V8 1988 !
! Atari/Win/Mac User !
=============================
 
Andrew Renshaw wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I suspect your wiring will cope with 100 watts, so no problem with simply
> putting th eheadlights straight in. I had problems with wiring 150w
> spotlights into a Discovery and had to use a relay in the end to stop wires
> melting, but that was a combined 300 watts which is fairly meaty.
>
> If you have any doubts about your wring put in a cheap relay form Halfords,
> about 12 pounds.
>
> You will not blow any fuses, however, if you do simply put the next step
> fuse in. If running 10, then put a 15 in.

SG: And if the wiring is designed to handle a maximum of 10A and you're
actually drawing 14 what will prevent the wiring loom from burning out
.... and maybe setting the car on fire? The fuse protects the wiring NOT
the load. Jeez I hate amateur electricians.

>
> I really cannot see any problems though.
>
> I suspect the headlights goign dull on idling has more to do with your
> alternator and I suspect you need to upgrade it to a higher output.
>
> Yours
>
> Andrew
>
> P.S. Still trying to get my 110 ready for Africa in six months time. You
> should try wiring in , banks of rear and front spotlights, fridge, GPS,
> three cigarette lighters and interior lights.

SG: Oh well, at least you'll be miles away when it all catches fire 'cos
you've used the wrong rated fuses ;-)

>
>
 
Larry wrote:
> I upgraded my headlamps (never realised what **** poor efforts them sealed
> beams was before) however with regards to fuses I hold the original wiring
> system in utter contempt and have bypassed the original fusebox with an
> alternative using blade fuses
>
> (and if the insurance world don't like it they can go F themselves ((if they
> have the agilitity)) .....)
>
>

It isn't the insurance you want to be really worried about. It is your
RIDE catching fire if your positive wire melts to the body and you short
your stuff to the body. Even with a minor oil leak or radiator leak, it
blossoms to a blaze fit for huge steaks.

In any oportunity, the circuitry will protect the fuse by catching fire.

You upgrade the headlamps, check the wiring afterwards by touching it or
seeing if the insulation is melting. If it is warming up, then get
yourself a wiring harness from Tiawan and let it take the load off by
handling the load.

In my 96 D1, I got the wiring harness and H4 voltage boosters with 55/60
H4s and it looks like I running 90/110 watts. I can see the grain on
the pavement at night and it isn't so glarey that it is dangerous.

Check out ebay and look for ntk as a vendor. He sells decent harnesses
that drop in after a hour and a wee bit of sweat (glow to you girlie men).

Adam in NYC
 
Really it is not as if I have never had smoke coming out of a dashboard
before and not even on a land rover. I have not increased the wattage merely
replaced the sealed beam units with halogen bulbs. In any case I have an
alternative fusebox to the original (more for an insurance company to worry
about) and I carry a fire extinguisher within easy reach (ought to get an
insurance discount for that even if it is a non standard fitting)

I replace my wiring on an as needed basis, eventually I will get round to
fitting relays, because the weak point in the system is actually the dip
switch as my last one burnt out eventually and that was before I had
replaced the headlamps.


--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes



"Adam Vazquez Kb2Jpd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Larry wrote:
>
> It isn't the insurance you want to be really worried about. It is your
> RIDE catching fire if your positive wire melts to the body and you short
> your stuff to the body. Even with a minor oil leak or radiator leak, it
> blossoms to a blaze fit for huge steaks.
>
> In any oportunity, the circuitry will protect the fuse by catching fire.
>
> You upgrade the headlamps, check the wiring afterwards by touching it or
> seeing if the insulation is melting. If it is warming up, then get
> yourself a wiring harness from Tiawan and let it take the load off by
> handling the load.
>
> In my 96 D1, I got the wiring harness and H4 voltage boosters with 55/60
> H4s and it looks like I running 90/110 watts. I can see the grain on
> the pavement at night and it isn't so glarey that it is dangerous.
>
> Check out ebay and look for ntk as a vendor. He sells decent harnesses
> that drop in after a hour and a wee bit of sweat (glow to you girlie men).
>
> Adam in NYC


 
Larry wrote:
> Really it is not as if I have never had smoke coming out of a dashboard
> before and not even on a land rover. I have not increased the wattage merely
> replaced the sealed beam units with halogen bulbs. In any case I have an
> alternative fusebox to the original (more for an insurance company to worry
> about) and I carry a fire extinguisher within easy reach (ought to get an
> insurance discount for that even if it is a non standard fitting)

I wish you well on your upgrades and may they hold up in the middle of
Africa. Don't forget to look at that book about taking care of Land
Rovers awhile in Africa and make sure you have a few replacement fuses
and bulbs carefully packed away so they will survive the trip.

By the way, the fire extingusher works best when there is someone behind
it who knows how to use it. If you are chowing down after a long night
driving in the bush, you might not notice the fumes from burning wiring
until it is too late.

Get a fire extinguisher that will handle gas oil and electrical fires
and won't leave a mess afterwards. Most will leave a terrible mess that
you won't be able to recover, like those cheap dry chemical ones.





>
> I replace my wiring on an as needed basis, eventually I will get round to
> fitting relays, because the weak point in the system is actually the dip
> switch as my last one burnt out eventually and that was before I had
> replaced the headlamps.
>
>

If this is your life line, you might want to buy all new wiring so you
don't have to worry about it when things get interesting.

Adam
 
On or around Tue, 28 Jun 2005 21:48:30 GMT, Adam Vazquez Kb2Jpd
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Get a fire extinguisher that will handle gas oil and electrical fires
>and won't leave a mess afterwards. Most will leave a terrible mess that
>you won't be able to recover, like those cheap dry chemical ones.
>

Mind, not sure which ones you're allowed, now. Halon gas used to be
favourite, but they've outlawed that, AFAICT. Dunno if you can still have
CO2 ones.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
Boswell's "Johnson".
 
Austin Shackles wrote:


> Mind, not sure which ones you're allowed, now. Halon gas used to be
> favourite, but they've outlawed that, AFAICT. Dunno if you can still have
> CO2 ones.
>

Ours at work are 50:50 powder and C02, so C02 must be legal.

Steve
 
Steve Taylor wrote:
> Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>
>> Mind, not sure which ones you're allowed, now. Halon gas used to be
>> favourite, but they've outlawed that, AFAICT. Dunno if you can still
>> have
>> CO2 ones.
>>
>
> Ours at work are 50:50 powder and C02, so C02 must be legal.
>
> Steve

Thank you Steve. Here in the US, I think they use a ABCD code so read
carefully. If they are available in Africa, then buy them there so you
wont have a problem transporting pressured containers on an aircraft.

However, you can try to get water cans (they are the soda powered fire
extingushers or the ones that you pump full of air ans then discharge)
and ship them empty until you hit the road over there. Then you let
everything dry after the BBQ.

Nothing like a little prior prep before the trip and triple check your
wiring, like a boy scout.(grin).

Adam (another boy scout, 96 D1 w/100k, one fire extingusher on board,
and I work for FDNY)
 
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