P38A headlight removal diagram

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One eye made it into the garden. It's cutting out when I put in drive or reverse. I hope its not the injector pump, reading into it now.
Revs fine, went to 4000 and heard something go pfffff , like a release of air.

EAS not in a working state as yet. Next task.



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I think it might have been the turbo, sounded similar to the dump valves boy racers fit. In which case its nothing to worry about. The stalling is more or a concern I think.
 
May also have been the EAS compressor blowing off. Or a turbo hose splitting. Dump valves don't work on diesels. If it stalls when gear is selected it is the injection pump. What is the idle RPM?
 
Cheers Wammers. I had read some threads and had a suspicion thats what it was. I'll let you know the idle speed later when I'm home.

Do I have to take off the timing chain cover to get at the pump?
This sounds like the worst thing that could have happened. I'll press on regardless though.
 
ned_ said:
Cheers Wammers. I had read some threads and had a suspicion thats what it was. I'll let you know the idle speed later when I'm home.

Do I have to take off the timing chain cover to get at the pump?
This sounds like the worst thing that could have happened. I'll press on regardless though.
Click to expand...

No you will need a sprocket holder to remove the pump. DO NOT remove pump unless sprocket holder is in place, only remove pump with engine locked at TDC number one firing.. You will also need special tools to time it on refit.
 
Okay great news. That's great news ) I'm in work with a monkey on my back, I'll be back on later with info on the RPM's.

Mighty, thank you.

I
 
ned_ said:
It idles at around 800 - 900 RPM

Click to expand...


Looks like 750 to me it should be 750 + or - 50. But stalling when put in gear is usually a quantity control servo problem. The noise like a chain slapping does not sound good. Unless you know it's not that.
 
wammers said:
Looks like 750 to me it should be 750 + or - 50. But stalling when put in gear is usually a quantity control servo problem. The noise like a chain slapping does not sound good. Unless you know it's not that.
Click to expand...
@wammers, do you remember when I had the noises from mine. You'd asked me to unplug the QCS on my pump while it was running. It made a similar but more constant noise when unplugged. Along with the stalling in gear and that noise being present. Could he test the QCS before pulling parts off?
 
Mark Piercy said:
@wammers, do you remember when I had the noises from mine. You'd asked me to unplug the QCS on my pump while it was running. It made a similar but more constant noise when unplugged. Along with the stalling in gear and that noise being present. Could he test the QCS before pulling parts off?
Click to expand...

Maybe i told you to unplug timing solenoid. You cannot unplug quantity control servo if that is what you mean by QCS. Feed for that is in the main plug to loom if you unplugged that engine would just stop. When pedal pot is below 9% ECU takes over idle control, when it sees engine rpm drop or rise via CPS it increases or decreases fuel via quantity control servo to compensate for high or low readings from CPS. It then maintains 750 +- 50. If car is put in gear, load is applied and revs will fall, ECU should then compensate by increasing fuel via quantity control. If pot is worn on control servo it loses contact with the ECU so no fuel increase takes place and the engine stalls. Sometimes slightly increasing idle rpm with such as Nanocom can forestall the inevitable for a short time. But a reconditioned pump will be needed eventually.
 
ned_ said:
Thanks for looking Wammers, I appreciate the input. That noise is completely new, never heard it before this evening.
Wonder is it related to the pfffff / dump valve noise I heard at 4000 rpm.

I am reading a thread you posted in on the similar subject, here - https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/bmw-diesel-timing-chain-tool-p38-diesel.306357/

Sounds like bad news. Taking the head off is a learning curve I could do without.
Click to expand...

Don't want to alarm you but that sounds to me as if one of the chain tensioners has broken. Sounds like a chain slapping, that would be my guess at this stage from what i heard.
 
wammers said:
Maybe i told you to unplug timing solenoid. You cannot unplug quantity control servo if that is what you mean by QCS. Feed for that is in the main plug to loom if you unplugged that engine would just stop. When pedal pot is below 9% ECU takes over idle control, when it sees engine rpm drop or rise via CPS it increases or decreases fuel via quantity control servo to compensate for high or low readings from CPS. It then maintains 750 +- 50. If car is put in gear, load is applied and revs will fall, ECU should then compensate by increasing fuel via quantity control. If pot is worn on control servo it loses contact with the ECU so no fuel increase takes place and the engine stalls. Sometimes slightly increasing idle rpm with such as Nanocom can forestall the inevitable for a short time. But a reconditioned pump will be needed eventually.
Click to expand...
Thanks @wammers, ooer that doesn't sound good at all..
Hopefully that isn't the case..fingers crossed.:eek:
 
good morning all )

I have a nanocom. I havnt even turned it on yet.

Is it possible to replace the tensioner without removing the head, or does the head have to come off to remove the front cover
 
ned_ said:
good morning all )

I have a nanocom. I havnt even turned it on yet.

Is it possible to replace the tensioner without removing the head, or does the head have to come off to remove the front cover
Click to expand...

The timing case cover can be removed without removing the head but you need to know what you are doing. You will need several special tools to do this. This is the main part of what you need and at a good price if sale is still on. http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?id=20&method=mViewProduct&productid=14033
 
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Okay I'll proceed with that option. I can buy the tools. If I mess up, I can remove the head.

I would like this engine to get the car through an MOT and road legal, which it is not at the moment.

Once it's on the road I'm going to start collecting the bits for an M57 swap.
 
Last edited:
ned_ said:
Okay I'll proceed with that option. I can buy the tools. If I mess up, I can remove the head.

I would like this engine to get the car through an MOT and road legal, which it is not at the moment.

Once it's on the road I'm going to start collecting the bits for an M57 swap.
Click to expand...
If you fit the M57, budget for the GEMS V8 RAD.
 
ned_ said:
Thanks for looking Wammers, I appreciate the input. That noise is completely new, never heard it before this evening.
Wonder is it related to the pfffff / dump valve noise I heard at 4000 rpm.
Click to expand...

Does it have that mechanical compressor thing running off the crank? Worth slipping the belt off and see if it is that venting?
 
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