P38A headlight removal diagram

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Thats an interesting notion worth trying, thanks Grrrrrr

Willdo Datatek, regarding the GEMS rad. Will be throwing money at that project I reckon, but the outcome should be fun.
 
Abomination.

Here is my air system. I know you can criticise it heavily, all day if you wanted to, but I would rather you did not.

If you could instead think, whether it will work or not, or is it dangerous. So constructive criticism welcomed please

2mPvv1a.png


odOhz37.png


The stock Air Dryer will be fitted between ports 7 and 5

The role of the pressure line is to make sure the pressure switch is getting an accurate reading from the tank.
 
Last edited:
ned_ said:
Abomination.

Here is my air system. I know you can criticise it heavily, all day if you wanted to, but I would rather you did not.

If you could instead think, whether it will work or not, or is it dangerous. So constructive criticism welcomed please

2mPvv1a.png


odOhz37.png


The stock Air Dryer will be fitted between ports 7 and 5

The role of the pressure line is to make sure the pressure switch is getting an accurate reading from the tank.
Click to expand...
You go your way, it seems an entirely pointless complication.
 
My constructive criticism would entail removing it, throwing it away and getting a proper EAS compressor. If you need air you can get a top notch 12 volt compressor for not a lot of money.
 
ned_ said:
Abomination.
Here is my air system. I know you can criticise it heavily, all day if you wanted to, but I would rather you did not.
If you could instead think, whether it will work or not, or is it dangerous. So constructive criticism welcomed please
The stock Air Dryer will be fitted between ports 7 and 5
The role of the pressure line is to make sure the pressure switch is getting an accurate reading from the tank.
Click to expand...

The air is dried on the way in and then moisture blown out on the way out. Seems to work so I would keep it as stock as possible. So, I'd take a line from your mechanical compressor, stick a relief valve that blows at 140 psi inline and then attach it to where the existing blue inlet pipe connects to the existing electric compressor. Even better, make the connection so you can switch it over to electric should the belt snap or similar - best of both worlds.
 
I found a stock electric compressor locally so may revert to standard. I have bigger issues now, I have an engine swap on my hands.
I bought an M57 today. I'm gloing to service the timing chain then think about installing it. Will take a while. Ces't la vie.

I had a good look underneath the rear of the car. Every part of the towbar has bad surface rust, that's all it is thankfully.

I need to take off the back bumper and clean and paint that area. I removed as much surface rust as I could while combing the underneath for badness. I didn't find any to horrify me.

The area of the chassis around the rear airbags is getting scabby. I am going to go at it with a screwdriver and a wire brush and then paint the area with a protective paint.

I was thinking, all P38's have sunroofs, and the sunroof all leak, so they must all be prone to rust in the back end?

How does it manifest itself?
 
Last edited:
ned_ said:
I found a stock electric compressor locally so may revert to standard. I have bigger issues now, I have an engine swap on my hands.
I bought an M57 today. I'm gloing to service the timing chain then think about installing it. Will take a while. Ces't la vie.

I had a good look underneath the rear of the car. Every part of the towbar has bad surface rust, that's all it is thankfully.

I need to take off the back bumper and clean and paint that area. I removed as much surface rust as I could while combing the underneath for badness. I didn't find any to horrify me.

The area of the chassis around the rear airbags is getting scabby. I am going to go at it with a screwdriver and a wire brush and then paint the area with a protective paint.

I was thinking, all P38's have sunroofs, and the sunroof all leak, so they must all be prone to rust in the back end?

How does it manifest itself?
Click to expand...

mine doesnt leak and is rust free
 
Can you make notes on the m57 install and do a right up as it seams a good swap to do, its just the electrics that are a bit of a mystery.
 
ned_ said:
I found a stock electric compressor locally so may revert to standard. I have bigger issues now, I have an engine swap on my hands.
I bought an M57 today. I'm gloing to service the timing chain then think about installing it. Will take a while. Ces't la vie.

I had a good look underneath the rear of the car. Every part of the towbar has bad surface rust, that's all it is thankfully.

I need to take off the back bumper and clean and paint that area. I removed as much surface rust as I could while combing the underneath for badness. I didn't find any to horrify me.

The area of the chassis around the rear airbags is getting scabby. I am going to go at it with a screwdriver and a wire brush and then paint the area with a protective paint.

I was thinking, all P38's have sunroofs, and the sunroof all leak, so they must all be prone to rust in the back end?

How does it manifest itself?
Click to expand...
I have 2 without the sunroof:D
 
ned_ said:
I found a stock electric compressor locally so may revert to standard. I have bigger issues now, I have an engine swap on my hands.
I bought an M57 today. I'm gloing to service the timing chain then think about installing it. Will take a while. Ces't la vie.

I had a good look underneath the rear of the car. Every part of the towbar has bad surface rust, that's all it is thankfully.

I need to take off the back bumper and clean and paint that area. I removed as much surface rust as I could while combing the underneath for badness. I didn't find any to horrify me.

The area of the chassis around the rear airbags is getting scabby. I am going to go at it with a screwdriver and a wire brush and then paint the area with a protective paint.

I was thinking, all P38's have sunroofs, and the sunroof all leak, so they must all be prone to rust in the back end?

How does it manifest itself?
Click to expand...
The M57 install has been done successfully by a guy in New Zealand, he fitted the GEMS V8 RAD and runs without the viscous towing a boat in high temperatures without issues. Needs the HP24 box if auto. It over heated with the standard diesel RAD.
 
ned_ said:
I found a stock electric compressor locally so may revert to standard. I have bigger issues now, I have an engine swap on my hands.
I bought an M57 today. I'm gloing to service the timing chain then think about installing it. Will take a while. Ces't la vie.
Click to expand...

The original engine is shot? Talk to @kurtjohnson10 if you need a compressor. He was selling a new one recently.

ned_ said:
I had a good look underneath the rear of the car. Every part of the towbar has bad surface rust, that's all it is thankfully.

I need to take off the back bumper and clean and paint that area. I removed as much surface rust as I could while combing the underneath for badness. I didn't find any to horrify me.
Click to expand...

You may find getting the torx bolt out by the tow-eye a total and utter barsteward to get out. Sometimes the tabs at the sides of the bumper crumble into dust on removal too. Don't do it unless you have to!
 
Grrrr nah I'll just crash into it. Be grand. Nice thing is I can buy a second bumper pretty cheap. Datatek thats interesting you dont have sunroofs. I actually want to get the alloy radiator thats on ebay, I might try find a second hand one, If I can't, they aren't too expensive.

Here is the turbo side of the engine sans compressor. Compressors a denso.

ZzcdB38.png


This side of the engine is pretty dry, the other side is black. I drained the coolant from the block and it ran clean, fresh coolant, which is nice.

There doesn't seem to be any play in the turbo, that I can detect.
 
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