Headlight issue

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tokyo pigeon

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5
Location
shropshire
My 2000 110 sw has developed a intermittent light problem. Three times now my headlights have cut out by themselves. Switching them off then on again has restored them, Can any one give any suggestions as to what the cause may be? Thanks in advance.
 
My 2000 110 sw has developed a intermittent light problem. Three times now my headlights have cut out by themselves. Switching them off then on again has restored them, Can any one give any suggestions as to what the cause may be? Thanks in advance.

I think this may be a similar issue to what @bankz5152 had a few weeks back. I’m sure he found it be a relay in the fuse box.
 
My 2000 110 sw has developed a intermittent light problem. Three times now my headlights have cut out by themselves. Switching them off then on again has restored them, Can any one give any suggestions as to what the cause may be? Thanks in advance.

Mine was almost exactly the same. Dead relay in the below dash fusebox.

Change it asap as i lost headlights all together shortly after!
 
Why not diagnose the fault properly instead of listening to people with similar problems? This could be anything from a dirty switch to a dodgy earth.
 
Coz relays are dirt cheap, its a place to start and easy to tell if its blown.

Plus the other thread already has answers as to what it could be, where to find and what to change if needed.
 
Why not diagnose the fault properly instead of listening to people with similar problems? This could be anything from a dirty switch to a dodgy earth.

Instead of posting negative ****e, why not try and help, or just don’t reply?

On that note, where would you advise starting?
 
Instead of posting negative ****e, why not try and help, or just don’t reply?

On that note, where would you advise starting?

How exactly is that negative? Telling the guy to swap out random parts is probably the worst advice you could ever give someone, telling them how to properly diagnose the fault would be a much more positive thing to do.

I would start by asking if the OP has a miltimeter , if not then he really needs one to do any kind of electrical work on a vehicle, but lets look at the problem,, loss of power, using the switch restores power, its pretty obvious where I would start if I A didn't have a meter and B didn't want to start swapping out parts randomly.

@tokyo pigeon , you need to test your switch, chances are its faulty, usually cleaning them works wonders. Do you have a multi meter or volt tester of any description?
 
How exactly is that negative? Telling the guy to swap out random parts is probably the worst advice you could ever give someone, telling them how to properly diagnose the fault would be a much more positive thing to do.

I would start by asking if the OP has a miltimeter , if not then he really needs one to do any kind of electrical work on a vehicle, but lets look at the problem,, loss of power, using the switch restores power, its pretty obvious where I would start if I A didn't have a meter and B didn't want to start swapping out parts randomly.

@tokyo pigeon , you need to test your switch, chances are its faulty, usually cleaning them works wonders. Do you have a multi meter or volt tester of any description?

What was positive about it? Judging by the fact the question was asked, that would say to me the OP has very little in faultfinding experience, so instead of saying “why not diagnose it properly”, I said have a look through a similar thread. I never said change anything, just that @bankz5152 had a similar issue and found it to be the relay.

Someone with little to no faultfinding experience can remove the fuse cover, swap out the headlight relay and see if it makes a difference, and if they use one from another position in the fuse box, it’s free.
 
I don't know whether this will be classed as a positive or negative response, but if all else fails this is the benefit of my very recent experience (cut and pasted from a similar thread this evening)........
I recently had a very similar sounding problem with my 1999 td5. Except when my lights went out I had nothing. No tails / side lights / or dipped beam, but the main beam worked fine. (and i had the buzzing yellow dim dip relay). eventually traced it to a fault in the supply from the main fuse box under the seat. So i took out the fused link (no 6) therefore isolating the old power supply to the switch and then fed a new 30amp wire with inline 30amp spade fuse to the switch. I cut the wire and fed power to the switch on the switch side of the connector block therefore leaving the loom intact. All my lights work fine now. It's a temporary fix, until in the summer when I hope I can trace the feed from the fuse box which travels through the transmission tunnel into the engine bay in the hope I might find the root cause.
Good luck.
 
I don't know whether this will be classed as a positive or negative response, but if all else fails this is the benefit of my very recent experience (cut and pasted from a similar thread this evening)........
I recently had a very similar sounding problem with my 1999 td5. Except when my lights went out I had nothing. No tails / side lights / or dipped beam, but the main beam worked fine. (and i had the buzzing yellow dim dip relay). eventually traced it to a fault in the supply from the main fuse box under the seat. So i took out the fused link (no 6) therefore isolating the old power supply to the switch and then fed a new 30amp wire with inline 30amp spade fuse to the switch. I cut the wire and fed power to the switch on the switch side of the connector block therefore leaving the loom intact. All my lights work fine now. It's a temporary fix, until in the summer when I hope I can trace the feed from the fuse box which travels through the transmission tunnel into the engine bay in the hope I might find the root cause.
Good luck.

The only problem I can see with doing something like this is if the fault is between the fuse and switch you could back feed into the fault, but if it works and nothing else is effected , I wouldn't wait until the summer though, Id be on that soon as, just in case it is feeding back unnoticed. To be sure you could isolate the old feed properly by disabling the original wire at the plug end so it cannot be energised by the new live feed.
 
What was positive about it? Judging by the fact the question was asked, that would say to me the OP has very little in faultfinding experience, so instead of saying “why not diagnose it properly”, I said have a look through a similar thread. I never said change anything, just that @bankz5152 had a similar issue and found it to be the relay.

Someone with little to no faultfinding experience can remove the fuse cover, swap out the headlight relay and see if it makes a difference, and if they use one from another position in the fuse box, it’s free.

Isnt this an intermittent fault? So swapping out the relay really doesnt tell you much except its working at that time, you could still end up with the fault at a later time, on a motorway for instance.
 
The only problem I can see with doing something like this is if the fault is between the fuse and switch you could back feed into the fault, but if it works and nothing else is effected , I wouldn't wait until the summer though, Id be on that soon as, just in case it is feeding back unnoticed. To be sure you could isolate the old feed properly by disabling the original wire at the plug end so it cannot be energised by the new live feed.

Absolutely. Anyone reading this thread should take Nobber's advice. As I forgot to mention in my post, The original live feed to the switch should be isolated at both ends. In my case, I removed the fused link (no 6) at the fuse box and I cut the brown live wire in between the white connector plug (beneath dash) and the switch itself. Thanks Nobber.
 
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