Head lining

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Anaconda

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Thames Valley
Faffing around with the front head lining in the Ninety before recovering it later in the year.
Would there be any benefit giving it a coat of pva solution in the meantime?
Reason is I have 5 litre of the stuff hanging around and trying to find something to use it on.
 
Ah. I didn't see this. Was it (hopefully) the outdoor/waterproof variety?

I'm now a headlining proffeshereranl - just done all of an Alfa's bits. Ask away when you get to finishing it. (Oh and I did use wproof pva to stich down some hairiness on the fibreboard moulding).
 
boguing said:
Ah. I didn't see this. Was it (hopefully) the outdoor/waterproof variety?

I'm now a headlining proffeshereranl - just done all of an Alfa's bits. Ask away when you get to finishing it. (Oh and I did use wproof pva to stich down some hairiness on the fibreboard moulding).
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It will be ok, its going inside the Ninety not on the roof, as we know it never gets damp in a Land Rover!
 
I have just spent the best part of the day putting a Lasalle headlining in my 90 which didn’t have one when I bought it. A real pig of a job trying to line up front to rear (in two parts).

Now done, please but exhausted.
 

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Anaconda said:
That's a proper good job, what materials did you use?
I will be happy if I get a reasonable job done.
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Now that's where I really earned points with the Daughter. She's a clothes designer and they have teams of fabric buyers, and she reckoned I'm good enough with Google images to get a job there.

As it happens, I googled 'headlining fabric' and https://www.eufabrics.com/ were at about the top. The exact match 2mm foam backed stuff was on their front page. Friendly chap running it too.

They do the spray adhesive too. If you go that way, don't go for the extra strong 'spray both surfaces'. It's not needed and it makes it far harder to stop it rippling. My main tip is that if the substrate is quite rough, practise shaping it over the awkward bits. If you 'push ' it you get ripples, so always be pulling it over shapes. (If it's not rough enough to give a feel for how it will stick, do an incredibly light dust with adhesive). Do it half a dozen times to get it into muscle memory. What happens is that fibre layer under the foam sticks down, and if you're pushing the fabric layer the foam in between stretches a bit and makes a ripple - which relaxes the foam until you push the fabric again - and get another wave.

If the foam makes a folded over edge too thick you can tear off the fibre and foam layer, best done with decent water pump pliers I found.
 
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Done it and I'm happy with the results. What I have learned is I should have spent some time repairing the head liner itself first, really I knew this but couldn't be bothered!
Secondly I missed a small area with the glue, happily it's not noticeable. If I hadn't glued both sides I might have been able to peal back the headlining and re-glue it.
Just need to do something with the sun visors.
 

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Anaconda said:
Done it and I'm happy with the results. What I have learned is I should have spent some time repairing the head liner itself first, really I knew this but couldn't be bothered!
Secondly I missed a small area with the glue, happily it's not noticeable. If I hadn't glued both sides I might have been able to peal back the headlining and re-glue it.
Just need to do something with the sun visors.
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If you used spray contact adhesive you did good, putting it on both surfaces does not go well! (Probably ok on the flat bits but there are no second chances when you get to the interesting bits).
 
Ive been wondering how to do mine. Im considering turning the roof upside down, and using it as a former / jig for the head liner, and then painting thin, slow setting, epoxy resin on to it.

That stuff seeps astoundingly well, and would get sucked right in (maybe too much, and go out the other side) but it would harden up the liner.

Id be tempted to spray it then, rather than line it.


It could all go very wrong though!
 
julianf said:
Ive been wondering how to do mine. Im considering turning the roof upside down, and using it as a former / jig for the head liner, and then painting thin, slow setting, epoxy resin on to it.

That stuff seeps astoundingly well, and would get sucked right in (maybe too much, and go out the other side) but it would harden up the liner.

Id be tempted to spray it then, rather than line it.


It could all go very wrong though!
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Do you know how much space there is between it and the metal? Stiffening is always best done by increasing the thickness, so if there's room for some battens that's the route I'd take. Failing that, if you've got the resin out, add some glassfibre?
 
boguing said:
Do you know how much space there is between it and the metal? Stiffening is always best done by increasing the thickness, so if there's room for some battens that's the route I'd take. Failing that, if you've got the resin out, add some glassfibre?
Click to expand...

As I remember, in some places it touches (where it's held by the tree clip things) but in other places (where people add sound proofing) there is a gap.

The epoxy resin is so thin that it creeps and wicks. Fibre glass would certainly strengthen the job but I'm not sure that's totally what I'm wanting to achieve.

I guess, if I had loads of money, I'd get a laselle. But I don't, so painting the existing one with resin and then (possibly) spraying it may be the answer? I'm not sure I need to toughen up the surface that much with glass fibre.

But it also doesn't sound like a bad idea either. I'm just not sure I need to go that far. I just want to stop bits of wood gouging it etc and get something that I can touch up with ease if need be.
 
Tricky to upholster too, needs sewing. My daughter's coming out this evening, and I know she put me on track to buy some dye for synthetics a while back (bought the wrong colour bonnet straps for the lightweight, never got round to it) I'll come back to you if nobody else knows.

Tell you what though, I bet one of those liquid shoe dyes polishes would be worth a try.
 
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