Freelander 1 HDC Sounding like a load of hammers ? - here's an easy fix

Hi all you good folk.

When I got my Flandy.... if I used HDC, it sounded like a load of steel workers using heavy duty presses hammering away - it was massively noisy ! - it worked as it should - but.. the noise was frightening.

I could not believe it was the ABS pump / solenoid system / valve system as it DID actually work. After a series of inspections and tests, I decided the hydraulic fluid was the culprit.
On draining and refilling - (Flushing) - I found the HF rather discoloured and looking like typical lack of servicing and hygroscopic issues (Hygroscopic is the affinity for water). Water causes air to form in the system, that in turn forms both air bubbles when heated and slight corrosion. Air is compressible, HF is not.

Bottom line, IF you have the 'shed full of hammers' syndrome with HDC on (and it seems to operate ok but hurts the ear drums) the answer is usually really easy ! - change the hydraulic fluid ! - do a complete flush - really complete !.

Even if you have a 'slightly' noisy HDC system or abs (apart from the normal 'cadence 'hammer - that should not occur on HDC - only on ABS) ) then completely change the fluid.
Mine is now absolutely silky smooth and virtually silent. a quick and cheap fix. It involves bleeding and flushing the complete system - don't skimp - flush it like it really needs - run a litre of fluid through if you need to - the first bleed may appear ok - however, you really need to get ALL of the old and knackered fluid out of the system, but, the results are simply amazing.

It is almost certainly NOT the abs system (with no warning lights - but - a hammering system!) - it is simply tired and ill treated service and fluid change.
Mine is back like new. cheap, easy and amazing difference.

Joe

Interesting info. When I changed my modulator I also needed to flush a lot of fluid through the system - I think I put 3 bottles of fluid into/through it in the end. The first bleed was not enough, it took a 2nd bleed to get the brakes working well. The "1 person bleed" kit was well worth investing a couple of $ in - makes the job a lot easier.

Hi GG, Yes, I can believe it !. I don't know about Flandy service schedules (it is buried in 'rave' but I cannot be ar$ed to look lol ) but with most vehicles, a complete fluid change of hydraulic systems at 2 years is recommended. My Flandy is almost 17 years old, and I am 100% certain it was NEVER done.
One of the HUGE issues over here is that because we never get 'really low temps / freezing) many people are convinced that they do not need antifreeze !!!!! - seriously ! - there is a culture of never changing it as 'it is not needed' - they forget the corrosion inhibiting value of the product.
Personally - with any vehicle - I will completely change the hydraulic fluid every 2 years - regardless of mileage - also , the coolant, drain, flush, refill. It is dirt cheap to do in reality. Same as changing the oil in the Gearbox, IRD, Diff, Engine.. not overly expensive - however, I do them every 12 months regardless of mileage.
It is the best insurance.
The flandy is going in on Tuesday for a new master cylinder, new rear cylinders and drums and new rear shoes, it will be having a 'flush' at the same time.. it was only done a few months back as part of a routine service, however, as I have not owned it for long, and, it was probably never changed before in 16 years, a second flush will help ! - hopefully the 2 month old fluid will have picked up any residual 'cr&p' and will be disposed of on this new flush.

I must confess that the 'first' change of fluid due to the sledge hammer HDC was an amazing transformation. it is absolutely superb now.
The brakes are still - errrrrr - 'not the best' , but I am Hoping that the rear end sort out and MC will help. The front was done a few months back with new discs and pads but did not help. the servo seems fine.

I could do with a vacuum pump 'normal' reading if anyone has one as that is a slight possibility, but seems fine. The normal pump the pedal and start the engine test for the servo is fine.. holding pressure on the pedal causes it to slowly sink though leading to the MC change.

Deep joy of Flandies eh ?

Joe_H said:

Deep joy of Flandies eh ?

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I dunno, sort of maintenance #1 on any motor really. I don't think the Freelander brakes are much/any more problematical than your average motor.

Having said that, I don't have much confidence in drums, so as they've got drums on the back, that's a bit of a pain. I also don't have much confidence in the Wabco modulator either having had to replace 2 of them.

So I suppose I should join you is saying, Deep joy of Flandies eh ?