Grrrrrr fitting side steps to a Defender 110

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A

Andrew Renshaw

Guest
Hi all,

Well I got some shiny new side steps off e-bay for my Defender 110 2.5TDI
CSW (1991). I noted how they fit on. So two bolts to the back chassis leg
(bolts provided and holes already drilled) - no problems.

Ah but you have to undo the bolt for the front chassis leg. Great big thing,
that refuses to turn. Soaked it in WD40, nope did not want to know. So Mr
Blowtorch and nice red hot bolt, nope refused to turn and gave me some pain
to my knuckles. So heated the bolt and immediately put cold water on the
thread thinking this would cause rapid contraction and break any corrosion.
Nope.

So here is the question, can I cut the bolt off with Mr Angle Grinder - of
course putting a new stainless steel one on - or will the body drop down
once I remove the bolt? I would love to get my side steps fitted.

Any help please.

Yours

Andy



 
Andrew Renshaw <[email protected]> wrote:

> ...
> but you have to undo the bolt for the front chassis leg. Great big thing,
> that refuses to turn. ...
>
> So here is the question, can I cut the bolt off with Mr Angle Grinder -

have you tried Messers Hammer & Chisel or indeed an impact driver?

--
William Tasso
 
Oh yes - they were brought out of miss Toolbox - it must be a miss, as it
seems to cost me money every week, little bit like my four daughters.

Andy

"William Tasso" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:eek:[email protected]...
> Andrew Renshaw <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> ...
>> but you have to undo the bolt for the front chassis leg. Great big thing,
>> that refuses to turn. ...
>>
>> So here is the question, can I cut the bolt off with Mr Angle Grinder -
>
> have you tried Messers Hammer & Chisel or indeed an impact driver?
>
> --
> William Tasso


 
Andrew Renshaw <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:
> Oh yes - they were brought out of miss Toolbox - it must be a miss,
> as it seems to cost me money every week, little bit like my four
> daughters.

If it's the same as the series ones and runs horizontal then you should have
no real problems. I'd jack under the support to take the weight. Chock
between the body and the outrigger. Don't over do it or it'll shift up once
free. It should be secured by the footwell to chassis braces as well as the
other side. I'd also avoid opening the doors during the process as they will
help keep things as in line as Landies get.

Lee D


 
Andrew Renshaw wrote:

> Ah but you have to undo the bolt for the front chassis leg. Great big thing,
> that refuses to turn. Soaked it in WD40, nope did not want to know. So Mr
> Blowtorch and nice red hot bolt, nope refused to turn and gave me some pain
> to my knuckles. So heated the bolt and immediately put cold water on the
> thread thinking this would cause rapid contraction and break any corrosion.
> Nope.

?! Forget about blowtorch, you need a breaker bar - about 3 ft long
would be ideal. And a set of six sided impact sockets to go with it.
WD40 and blowtorches are all very well, but not suitable replacements
for brute force. Witht he breaker bar you'll either snap the bolt
(saves getting the grinder out) or it'll unthread. And the chances are
it'll unthread.

> So here is the question, can I cut the bolt off with Mr Angle Grinder - of
> course putting a new stainless steel one on - or will the body drop down
> once I remove the bolt? I would love to get my side steps fitted.

It'll be fine, just put a bottle jack under the bulkhead to support it,
but it probably won't drop very much anyway as the bulkhead is still
supported by another bracket from the footwell to the chassis. You'll
need a long pin punch to drive the bolt out though.

Shopping list:

3 foot breaker bar
Air impact socket set
Punch set
Copper headed hammer (doesn't do so much damage when you're hammering
the sockets on)

Regards

William MacLeod

 
On or around 12 Dec 2005 03:23:26 -0800, [email protected]
enlightened us thusly:
>
>Shopping list:
>
>3 foot breaker bar
>Air impact socket set
>Punch set
>Copper headed hammer (doesn't do so much damage when you're hammering
>the sockets on)

Been playing with air impact wrench here. It won't undo the minibus
wheelnuts, even with a decent-sized compressor. Mind, it is a cheap impact
gun. I obviously did 'em up tighter than I thought I had with the BFO
breaker bar.


BTW - apropos wheelnuts, and this is for LR ones too: draper do a deep 27mm
socket described as an M24 diesel injector socket, which is perfect for LR
wheelnuts. Apart, of course, from the early ones that aren't 27mm.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Beyond the horizon of the place we lived when we were young / In a world
of magnets and miracles / Our thoughts strayed constantly and without
boundary / The ringing of the Division bell had begun. Pink Floyd (1994)
 
Austin Shackles wrote:

> Been playing with air impact wrench here. It won't undo the minibus
> wheelnuts, even with a decent-sized compressor. Mind, it is a cheap impact
> gun.

That'll be the problem Austin - the cheap ones are absolute ****e.
Informal testing (ie lads were bored over a beer on a Friday afternoon)
of a cheap Taiwanese one showed it was lucky to produce 200lbf of torque
- that compares to my newest 1/2" drive impact wrench is rated at
700lbf, and seems true to spec.


--
EMB
 
Austin Shackles wrote:

> Been playing with air impact wrench here. It won't undo the minibus
> wheelnuts, even with a decent-sized compressor. Mind, it is a cheap impact
> gun. I obviously did 'em up tighter than I thought I had with the BFO
> breaker bar.

Hi Austin,

Time to break out the scaffold tube ;-) The only piece of Snap-On
equipment I use is one of their 1/2" impact wrenches which I think was
originally used by Noah to build his ark! Couple of drops of oil every
day that it's used and it's away - I normally only use impact wrenches
for things I can't hold easily while undoing like brake discs from hubs
etc. But do make sure yours is well lubricated as dried out seals lead
to much poorer performance from air tools

> BTW - apropos wheelnuts, and this is for LR ones too: draper do a deep 27mm
> socket described as an M24 diesel injector socket, which is perfect for LR
> wheelnuts. Apart, of course, from the early ones that aren't 27mm.

If the original poster follows the shopping list, he'll get a 27mm
socket in his set.... probably not deep enough for injector removal
though.

Regards

William MacLeod

 
On or around Tue, 13 Dec 2005 08:51:20 +1300, EMB <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>> Been playing with air impact wrench here. It won't undo the minibus
>> wheelnuts, even with a decent-sized compressor. Mind, it is a cheap impact
>> gun.
>
>That'll be the problem Austin - the cheap ones are absolute ****e.
>Informal testing (ie lads were bored over a beer on a Friday afternoon)
>of a cheap Taiwanese one showed it was lucky to produce 200lbf of torque
>- that compares to my newest 1/2" drive impact wrench is rated at
>700lbf, and seems true to spec.

well it was only 30 quid. in fact, though I think it's rated about 200 lb
ft. However, that's about what the wheelnuts should be. I'd not be
surprised to find 'em tighter though, after i'd gorilla-ed them with the big
cracking bar.

I'll have to play with it and a torque wrench, and see what it does.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Remember that to change your mind and follow him who sets you right
is to be none the less free than you were before."
Marcus Aurelius Antoninus (121-180), from Meditations, VIII.16
 
On or around 12 Dec 2005 13:27:43 -0800, "[email protected]"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>
>> Been playing with air impact wrench here. It won't undo the minibus
>> wheelnuts, even with a decent-sized compressor. Mind, it is a cheap impact
>> gun. I obviously did 'em up tighter than I thought I had with the BFO
>> breaker bar.
>
>Hi Austin,
>
>Time to break out the scaffold tube ;-) The only piece of Snap-On
>equipment I use is one of their 1/2" impact wrenches which I think was
>originally used by Noah to build his ark! Couple of drops of oil every
>day that it's used and it's away - I normally only use impact wrenches
>for things I can't hold easily while undoing like brake discs from hubs
>etc. But do make sure yours is well lubricated as dried out seals lead
>to much poorer performance from air tools

I bunged a load of oil through it today, and also undid the little plug in
the side where it says "OIL" and put some in there for good measure.

I'll experiment further with some bolts and see how tight it goes. If it
turns out to be crap, well, swings and roundabouts, ain't it - I'll have to
buy a better one, put it down to experience or something.

>
>If the original poster follows the shopping list, he'll get a 27mm
>socket in his set.... probably not deep enough for injector removal
>though.


The nice thing about the injector socket is the depth, plus it's single hex.
The depth means the handle clears the bodywork without using an extension.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Beyond the horizon of the place we lived when we were young / In a world
of magnets and miracles / Our thoughts strayed constantly and without
boundary / The ringing of the Division bell had begun. Pink Floyd (1994)
 
Austin Shackles wrote:
>
> well it was only 30 quid. in fact, though I think it's rated about 200 lb
> ft. However, that's about what the wheelnuts should be. I'd not be
> surprised to find 'em tighter though, after i'd gorilla-ed them with the big
> cracking bar.
>
> I'll have to play with it and a torque wrench, and see what it does.

If it turns out to be a bit weak get a 3/4" drive one for next time -
useful for those really tight crank pulley bolts too.



--
EMB
 
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
funny about:
> I'll experiment further with some bolts and see how tight it goes.
> If it turns out to be crap, well, swings and roundabouts, ain't it -
> I'll have to buy a better one, put it down to experience or something.

Wus! Blow harder!


;-)

Lee D
--
www.lrproject.com



 
On or around Tue, 13 Dec 2005 12:07:25 +1300, EMB <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles wrote:
>>
>> well it was only 30 quid. in fact, though I think it's rated about 200 lb
>> ft. However, that's about what the wheelnuts should be. I'd not be
>> surprised to find 'em tighter though, after i'd gorilla-ed them with the big
>> cracking bar.
>>
>> I'll have to play with it and a torque wrench, and see what it does.
>
>If it turns out to be a bit weak get a 3/4" drive one for next time -
>useful for those really tight crank pulley bolts too.

yeha, but they require an upgrade of everything from the gun back to and
including the compressor... The existing compressor and pipe and so forth
should run a 1/2" type gun OK. The big ones need LOTS of air.

besides, I can do pulley bolts:

fit socket and big cracking bar to pulley, align end of cracking bar so it's
about an inch or so above the chassis rail. Turn starter.

it's tightening the bastard that I can't do. Or not as tight as the book
says, anyway. Not that it's come loose, as yet.

tracked down a nasty konck in the lathe the other day - main input pulley
not secure on shaft. dunno what moron did that (not had it long, so not me)


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Too Busy: Your mind is like a motorway. Sometimes it can be jammed by
too much traffic. Avoid the jams by never using your mind on a
Bank Holiday weekend.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
funny about:

> it's tightening the bastard that I can't do. Or not as tight as the
> book says, anyway. Not that it's come loose, as yet.
>
> tracked down a nasty konck in the lathe the other day - main input
> pulley not secure on shaft. dunno what moron did that (not had it
> long, so not me)

Torque converter, many years since I've seen one in use but seemed to do the
trick.

Lee D


 
On or around Mon, 12 Dec 2005 23:13:39 -0000, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
>funny about:
>> I'll experiment further with some bolts and see how tight it goes.
>> If it turns out to be crap, well, swings and roundabouts, ain't it -
>> I'll have to buy a better one, put it down to experience or something.
>
>Wus! Blow harder!

hehe. I've just got a more convincing compressor.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Satisfying: Satisfy your inner child by eating ten tubes of Smarties
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 
On or around Tue, 13 Dec 2005 11:43:24 -0000, "Lee_D"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Austin Shackles <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
>funny about:
>
>> it's tightening the bastard that I can't do. Or not as tight as the
>> book says, anyway. Not that it's come loose, as yet.
>>
>> tracked down a nasty konck in the lathe the other day - main input
>> pulley not secure on shaft. dunno what moron did that (not had it
>> long, so not me)
>
>Torque converter, many years since I've seen one in use but seemed to do the
>trick.

ferwot? tightening the front bolt?
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Beyond the horizon of the place we lived when we were young / In a world
of magnets and miracles / Our thoughts strayed constantly and without
boundary / The ringing of the Division bell had begun. Pink Floyd (1994)
 
Austin Shackles <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
funny about:
> On or around Tue, 13 Dec 2005 11:43:24 -0000, "Lee_D"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>> Torque converter, many years since I've seen one in use but seemed
>> to do the trick.
>
> ferwot? tightening the front bolt?

Yeah, It was like a ratchet thingy with two handles which you worked in
opposite directions. I guess there must have been some kind of fancy gearbox
inside the ratchety bit. Youth used it undoing flywheel bolts on a Bug
engine. His father ran a HGV company and they did all their own servicing so
I guess cost wasn't so much of an issue.

I guess there may be a proper name for them torque multipler or summat like
that.

Lee D


 
Lee_D wrote:

>
> I guess there may be a proper name for them torque multipler or summat like
> that.

That's the one. And you need summat bloody solid to lock the reaction
bar against.

--
EMB
 
EMB <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny about:
> That's the one. And you need summat bloody solid to lock the reaction
> bar against.

Like a chassis! :)

He was a big youff though!

Lee D


 
Okay I tried everything including a three foot breaker bar. So wandered off
to my friendly Land Rover Garage. He fitted the sidesteps in ten minutes.
Explained that I am using a cheap socket set and that a decent socket and
breaker bar will do it every time.

I asked him how much and he said - clear off.

I have spent a lot of money there in the last few months though, In fact to
date I have spent £2500 on repairs and modifications for the Defender. The
new Fuel pump and clutch were not cheap though. Nor upgraded heavy duty
suspension and top of the range Gas Shocks.

Yours

Andy

P.S. Many thanks for all your help I have now added to my Christmas list an
expensive socket set


 
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