gR@HaM's 300tdi Project

Okay - this is my first project, so be gentle with me!
Have included questions as I go along, not sure whether this follows etiquette on the forum but here goes - I'm sure someone will happily let me know if doesnt..
I bought a '95 300tdi off a mate a couple of months back with blown HG, plug popped out of the top of the rad causing engine to overheat.

Possibly in need of a new ignition barrel

So, bank holiday weekend - no better time to make a start and get my hands dirty!!

First things first I made a start on the rear interior, stripped out the seats and carpet to find something I was not expecting.. the fuel tank

Other areas of rust that I have noticed so far are as follows:

Both front inner wings (N/S outer wing removed)

Rear arches

The plan is to get myself a MIG and learn a new trade
Obviously I will need a new floor panel, but am thinking I will hopefully get away with patch welding all the other areas. Anyone know whether you can buy replacement inner wings for the 300tdi? or can you only for the 200tdi/RR

I then moved on to cylinder head removal.
After cutting my hands to shreds with the pain-in-the-arse manifold bolts and using an Irwin easy-out to remove the 10mm head bolt under the rocker (head of the bolt had worn down) I managed to get the head off.
There was certainly some water in there:

Removing the sump plug emptied out as much water as there was oil!!
Would anyone recommend using a flushing oil to remove all water from the engine once its (hopefully) up and running?

Head off:

Keeping head bolts in order (have done the same with push rods):

Next step is to get the head pressure tested and, if required, skimmed.

I have been wondering whether do a de-carbon whilst I'm at it, does anyone have an input as to whether it would be worth the extra work?
If I remove each of the valves (and DONT mix them up) to give them a clean am I correct in thinking that they will not need lapping?

Whilst I'm at it I'm also thinking of changing the following components:

HG & kit
Belt
Tensioners/idlers
Aux belts
Water pump (is there a specific type/metal impellor?)
Oil & filter
Air filter
Silicone hoses
Pollen filters?
Brake fluid
PS fluid
Anything else?

Any advice muchos appreciated Oh and be prepared for any daft questions I may well have down the line!!

You seem to be doing all the right things so far.

Mechanically it's a runner sooner or later.

It's the rust and rot that kills Discos.

CharlesY

I wouldn't spend any money on that mechanically, until the tin worm is fixed to MOT standard. No point in having a nicely running engine inside a pile of rust.

well i hope you can pick the mig welding up quick then !!
the welding of the inner rear door wheel arches will certainly have ya pulling your hair out remember dont just do the inside weld a nice nice big heavy gauge plate underneath... the boot floor easy enough to do ........ if the inner wings are to badly gone when your grinding them back there is a metal fabricator hwo makes new inner wings mind i havent use them ..YET ... www.yrm-metal-solutions.com there rear chassis mounts are good aswell

Yep, point taken should really be looking at the rust as a priority - just need to get myself a MIG first
Tbh I haven't considered the disco not getting an MOT, this along with the fact that I'm too stubborn to pay someone else to do any of the work should make sure I get it back on the road!
Thanks for the link robint will have a look see at what they can supply.
Re. the rear arches - I haven't had a proper look underneath them yet, or the sills infact so fingers crossed..

IMHO before you do anything, turn the engine slowly and check each piston comes to TDC with a dial gauge. If the engine hydraulic locked when it was running a con rod could be bent, this will tell you if you have to get deeper into the engine (and wallet). If all is ok I would then proceed as follows:

I would test and skim the head.
I would fit new head bolts.
Pull the valves and keep in order, check they are not bent, clean them up and lap them in with a grinding stick. Fit back in original holes with new oil stem seals.


Get the injectors out of the head as well to keep them clean, they have to come out for skimming anyway, don't forget you will need new copper washers to put the injectors back.


When all assembled I would fill with plain water in rad and cheap oil and filter and run up to temp for about 30 minutes. Take for a run if all well dump the oil and replace with your normal choice and a new filter, drain and flush rad and then put in antifreeze ect.

If all goes well (and I hope it does) get welding then get out there and enjoy the car, you cannot get the MOT (well not normaly) without the engine running anyway.

Re the welding, some of the places you showed us in the pics are proper MOT no no's so the welding has to be a bit near the mark.

If I have missed anything I am sure someone else will be along to offer more advice.

I hope this helps,

Good luck,

regards

Dave

Dave, thanks that has cleared up a lot of questions. Re the welding when you say it will have to be near the mark - does this mean I cannot patch much further from where some of the rust areas stop? What I'm getting at is can structral parts of the body be cut and welded or must these always remain either in good original condition or replaced. Sorry if a bit vague!

Well, I've managed to get hold of a MIG from a guy at work on long-term loan, the plan for tomorrow is pick up some scrap steel and have a play

This weekend curiosity got the better of me - the floor is now out!
I couldnt locate all of the spot welds but drilled out any I could see.
Managed to snap my hex bolt remover in the O/S seat belt harness points but was able to lock onto it with an easy-out. The other one wasnt budging at all so went for it with the angle grinder:


With the floor out:



Corroded fuel sender unit, hopefully the electrics are ok and I can just replace the union nuts:


My biggest concern is the rear chassis mounts:

robint said:

there rear chassis mounts are good aswell

Click to expand...

Would this do the job by any chance? Guess I should go for poly bushes aswell?
Thanks

gR@HaM said:

Would this do the job by any chance? Guess I should go for poly bushes aswell?
Thanks

Discovery Rear Cross Member Mounting Point Bracket

Instead of replacing the whole rear cross member on your Discovery - why not save time and money by just replacing the mounting point brackets?​

The body is made from 1.6mm mild steel with a 5mm laser cut locating plate welded to the body.​

The wings are extra wide to allow ease of welding.​

Click to expand...

they look really good, ive just had to make my own on my disco last week for m.o.t wasnt aware you could buy these.