Getting hot!!!.... new engine rebuild

HI, Anybody had this trouble before, rebuilt engine, new pump, new stat 74 degrees, flushed rad as was in good order, started for the first time but got a bit hot just under the red not ideal for new engine so turned it off. started it the next day and started to check a few things stat opening fine and getting heat to the top of rad but bottom hose cold, revved engine with rad cap off and cannot see any flow of water into the rad all looks static. I'm suspecting the pump even though it's new, it is one of those cheap britpart ones. I am thinking off trying the more expensive britpart pump in the red box called proflow, which i think is made in the UK and nearly three times the price. anybody tried these with any success?

I think my pump was a bearmach one and I’ve had no issues. The bottom hose should be much cooler than the top if the rad is doing its job.
I’d make sure the gauge is accurate before spending.

+ 1 on the above and run it again with the rad cap off to get air out. Is the heater warming? Is the temp sender new ?

Has the block got a bleed tap on it?

74°c sounds a very cool thermostat! Why did you choose it?

They run hot at first if the bores are new, it all takes a time to run in.

A thermostat doesn't dictate the temperature ceiling though <confused>

thanks for reply's guys, chose 74 degrees because its a lot hotter here in NZ most of the time, block has a drain tap on the side could try and crack that, there is no heater pipe it runs from one end of the head to the other, temp sender new, the pump was only about 14 pounds and seems too cheap that's why i was considering a more expensive replacement. bottom hose is cold when it's running and nearly all the rad water just not circulating.

Expain that heater pipe...

car has no heater so pipe just comes out near thermostat housing and diagonally across to the back of the head and back in, that's how it was set up when i bought it!

I would blank that off and see what differnce it makes. Does it have the little tap?

You need to bleed it from the block, just to be sure.
Other than that, a damn good thrashing down a motorway with an auto recovery card in your pocket.

New sender may not be right. I would fit a cappilary temp gauge that reads number's degrees and know what the actual engine temp is.

It's not so much the temperature bothers me at this stage as thermostat seems to be opening OK it's the lack of water movement that concerns me more, Did drain some water out the side of the block last night, there was no air, and it didn't seem to make any difference. I tried squeezing the heater pipe but still no flow.

You could try running with out the thermostat and rad cap off and see if if there is circulation.If you are running an engine static it can take a long time for it to heat up as it is not realy "working" even if you are reving it.
If you think the pump is faulty take it out and check.

Yep going to take the pump out and have a look, still have the old one so may put that back on, I replaced almost everything with new while i was rebuilding to try and make it reliable and avoid this situation, oh well.
will probably take thermostat out as well and just try to see if I can get some circulation going.
I wonder how many people have had trouble with these pumps and is that why Britpart now do an more expensive alternative made in the UK, can't find any reviews on it yet as I don't think it's been out long.

Was just wondering if anyone else had any similar issues.

Thanks for all your help guys will keep you posted.

There was a bad batch of britpart pumps a few years ago,some failing after little mileage. That may be the reason for the more expensive pump.

It's not unknown for new thermostats to stick.

Try it in a pan of boiling water to see if it opens.