Galvanised chassis swap

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dazzx10r

dazzx10r

Active Member
Posts
329
Location
Rotherham
Whilst replacing my gearbox and engine mounts on my 90, I noticed a few areas of rot on my chassis (both front legs and both outriggers). I pondered repairing the chassis, but after much thought about it I have decided on a new galv chassis from Richards Chassis, I called over to see them today and discussed what I wanted (they're only 6-7 miles from me). Now question is how long does it take to do a chassis swap? I will be sourcing a good second hand bulkhead to go into the build (which I am also considering having galvanised). Both front and rear axles were replaced by me only a few months ago, and the only other thing I want to change is my transfer box as it's getting a little tired. Most of the work will be done by myself, but I may be able to get a lending hand on the odd few days.
 
Interested in the replies to this one myself as well. Whilst reasonably sound my chassis is looking a little untidy in places, its had a few patches a new rear crossmember has been fitted in the past and also a pair of front outriggers.
I would really like to see it sitting on a nice new galvanised one.
My problems are the space to do the job, just room to park 2 cars in front of my house, and would be done not undercover which I guess is not ideal.
I see Richards do a fitting service, did u ask how much for that ?
Thing is though I'm a bit of a fiddler and would like to see everything cleaned and painted before refitment, ie axles, suspension arms etc. Im thinking that paying to have it done would just be a quick swop and not allow me those refinements.
How bigger job is it for home ??
Regards
Mark
PS Sorry to also jump on the thread, but I guess any answers will be of use to both of us.
 
the time it takes to change a chassis depends if you dont know what you are doing e.g first chassis swap it is a bigger job than most people think it is.
but it does not take long if you know what you are doing and you have all the equipment/ parts you need.

remember when you re chassis a landy ideally you need to change all the suspension bushes (new springs and shocks if needed).
you will need to fit new copper brake lines to the chassis.
it will need the wiring done (new loom if needed)
really you should use new bolts like bzp bolts not stainless as over time this reacts causing a galvanic reaction on the body panels.
while the landy is in bits its a good time to change any seals that need doing and inspect the clutch and see if that needs changing.

and when fitting a galvanized chassis its a good idea to paint or wax oil or schultz it as a the salt in the winter will eat into the galvanize at a alarming rate.
 
Did you see Paul in the workshop next door to Richards Chassis?

He swapped my Richards galv chassis over earlier this year, along with an Ashtree galv bulkhead. He did an excellent job.

I thought my bulkhead wasnt too badly rusted, until I saw it after it had been romoved:eek: It was a mess.

I also opted for new springs & dampers all around, along with new front & rear props, and fuel tank. The list of things to replace soon adds up:eek: Its also a good oportunity to replace the clutch whilst the gear box is off....

Also consider galv body & gearbox cross members whilst your at it. Richards sell these as a kit.

I didnt have the time or space to do it myself, as my 110 is my daily runner for work etc.
 
LeadFarmer said:
Did you see Paul in the workshop next door to Richards Chassis?

He swapped my Richards galv chassis over earlier this year, along with an Ashtree galv bulkhead. He did an excellent job.

I thought my bulkhead wasnt too badly rusted, until I saw it after it had been romoved:eek: It was a mess.

I also opted for new springs & dampers all around, along with new front & rear props, and fuel tank. The list of things to replace soon adds up:eek: Its also a good oportunity to replace the clutch whilst the gear box is off....

Also consider galv body & gearbox cross members whilst your at it. Richards sell these as a kit.

I didnt have the time or space to do it myself, as my 110 is my daily runner for work etc.
Click to expand...

How much did they charge you to do the swap? I am replacing all of the bushes with floflex and new copper brake lines, anything else that needs doing will have to be factored into the rebuild. I'm hoping my son will make up a photo liberary of the rebuild so that I can post it up at a later date. The guy that I spoke to is going to weld in my own fabricated winch mounting plate, this will replace the front crossmember but still incorperate the radiator mounting, it's made out of 5mm thick plate so it will also add more strength than the original crossmember.
 
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The chassis is a grand and a half and there's a company that will do it for you for 2 and a half, in a couple of days - I bet you end up spending loads more than that on extra bits and bieces, not to mention the frustration of stuck nuts etc, all of which is covered.
 
Oddie said:
The chassis is a grand and a half and there's a company that will do it for you for 2 and a half, in a couple of days - I bet you end up spending loads more than that on extra bits and bieces, not to mention the frustration of stuck nuts etc, all of which is covered.
Click to expand...

Chassis is just a shade under £1300, and I'm a Yorkshireman, so I bet I only end up spending just a shade OVER £1300!:D:D:D. And on the plus side it keeps me out of her-in-doors way for a couple of weeks:)
 
I have managed to buy a secondhand unused new td5 galvanised chassis for £600!, I just need to cut the engine mounts off and weld a new set of 200tdi ones onto it and then I'm ready to start the swap over, I'm going to hav some repair work to to on my bulkhead when I get it removed, I am going to fit new brakelines and get the chassis ready for the swap, I have just finished welding in my own winch mounting plate which replaces the original front crossmember, I am using the front crossmember to make the center crossmember. I'll add some photos later.
 
Having stripped the 110 csw down to the chassis (as it needed welding and treating), it took 21 days in total to rebuild it. That said, I replaced every seal, bush & pipes. I learnt alot and it wouldn't take that long next time; and there will be a next time when I can afford a galv chassis.
 
Well I've finally made a start on the strip down of my landy for the swap, it has taken me 23hrs to stip it down working on my own and I've even burnt up the old chassis to get rid of it! My son is in the garage painting my new chassis with black enamel paint, so I should be ready to rebuild it later in the week. I still have the repairs to do on my bulkhead, I'll sort this when I'm back up to a rolling chassis and I can push it in an out of the garage. I'm still waiting for my son to upload all of the pics on here.
 
Is this an old thread?

Not much in the way of pictures when people swap a chassis, they tend to disappear when the work starts, maybe too busy to take pics as they go.

I have seen a rolling chassis built up ready but what about pics of the crusty old bolts and how to lift the body off the old chassis, I am about to start taking mine apart and not sure where to start, perhaps try taking wings off first and doors and floors so as I can see what I'm doing.:)
 
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