Fuse 12 Fail - rear window (but it hasn't)

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Put a meter across the output to the rear screen from the BECM and check the voltage.
a lot of relays of the type in the BECM have removable lids, once open, it's possible to clean and adjust the contact with a bit of care. I'll have a look tomorrow if it will help. The relays are not too difficult to replace but you do need a good fine point soldering iron and a solder sucker. Be very careful of static electricity on your hands when handling the BECM innards.
I didn't know the rear screen was controlled from the BECM, thought it was like the front screen. Another bit of overcomplicated design.

I'm confident enough with a soldering iron and anti-static precautions. I have a solder sucker etc. So no worries there. I'm more worried about how I get it out as its under the seat!!! And I assume I'll have to disconnect the battery and then will I have all the BECM/alarm/sync issues to look forward to! :)

Is there a how to for removing the BECM? Not looked in RAVE yet as that sometimes seems to take a long way around...

tnx all

Nik
 
Put a meter across the output to the rear screen from the BECM and check the voltage.
a lot of relays of the type in the BECM have removable lids, once open, it's possible to clean and adjust the contact with a bit of care. I'll have a look tomorrow if it will help. The relays are not too difficult to replace but you do need a good fine point soldering iron and a solder sucker. Be very careful of static electricity on your hands when handling the BECM innards.
I didn't know the rear screen was controlled from the BECM, thought it was like the front screen. Another bit of overcomplicated design.
Yeah you would have thought that if the front is external relay controlled, the rear would be too...seems odd to me to!
 
I'm confident enough with a soldering iron and anti-static precautions. I have a solder sucker etc. So no worries there. I'm more worried about how I get it out as its under the seat!!! And I assume I'll have to disconnect the battery and then will I have all the BECM/alarm/sync issues to look forward to! :)

Is there a how to for removing the BECM? Not looked in RAVE yet as that sometimes seems to take a long way around...

tnx all

Nik

Never ever had an alarm/sync problem when removing/replacing the battery. You must diss the battery before you start.
The correct way is to remove the seat, I reckon it's possible without removing the seat but would be difficult. Never tried it though:)
 
If you follow the disconnection procedure for the battery, there should be no need to EKA...only maybe sync the keys again...

Usual battery procedure is to loosen the Negative clamp but not disconnect....put key in ignition to position 2 than back to 0 and key out...now disconnect the negative clamp within 17 seconds....

On reconnection, have a door open and the keys in your pocket as they have a tendancy to lock the doors if you have the doors closed...!!!

Easy access to BeCM is to remove the front seat (4 or 6 allen bolts IIRC) motor backwards and undo front 2 bolts, then motor forwards to undo the 2 or 4 at the rear and lift out....then discon the battery and remove the BeCM....
 
If you follow the disconnection procedure for the battery, there should be no need to EKA...only maybe sync the keys again...

Usual battery procedure is to loosen the Negative clamp but not disconnect....put key in ignition to position 2 than back to 0 and key out...now disconnect the negative clamp within 17 seconds....

On reconnection, have a door open and the keys in your pocket as they have a tendancy to lock the doors if you have the doors closed...!!!

Easy access to BeCM is to remove the front seat (4 or 6 allen bolts IIRC) motor backwards and undo front 2 bolts, then motor forwards to undo the 2 or 4 at the rear and lift out....then discon the battery and remove the BeCM....

Never bothered with that rigmarole when dissing the battery and never had a problem. Depends if you have a BBUS sounder or not.
No motor on my seat LOL
Mine seat is held with TORX socket head bolts:)
 
Never bothered with that rigmarole when dissing the battery and never had a problem. Depends if you have a BBUS sounder or not.
No motor on my seat LOL
Mine seat is held with TORX socket head bolts:)
Oh yeah Keiths right, think on the P38 they are Torx bits (Classic were Allen bolts) - also don't forget to disconnect any wiring harnesses to the seat either...
 
Yeah you would have thought that if the front is external relay controlled, the rear would be too...seems odd to me to!

Rover 75's have the rear computer controlled because there is an option in the settings to have the rear automatically come on once the temperature drops below 10'c. I assume that's why its done in the BECM for these. I guess there is a setting for automatic operation somewhere in Testbook...

Nik
 
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