Fumes in Cab.

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Posts
14
Location
Derby
Hi, Thanks for the help on the door glass issue.
Have fumes in the cab and cant think of what else to check.
Exhaust system IE egr v/v, manifolds, turbo charger etc
Inlet manifold gasket, air pipes and intercooler checked.
New gasket fitted to heater box on suction from chamber under ps wing.
Have given the engine a good clean which has made it better.
Looked for rust damage on front bulkhead seems ok.
As a last resort have blocked the heater suction which has not helped so the new gasket is ok.
any ideas any one, oh used CO2 alarm just to prove it wasnt exhaust gas.
 
No only noticeable when traveling and only after a few hours. Open the front louvers to pressure the cab. Bit cold in winter. so think its coming from the front.
Checked the oxygen content which is good so i don't think its exhaust. I'm a marine surveyor so have a tank enclosed space tester.
It feels like fumes from a hot engine so i gave it a good clean which is better but still there.
 
Has the gutter under the rear of the bonnet got a rubber trim piece on it? Iirc @lightning fitted onesome time back mainly for noise, might help you with the smell?

What engine is it?
 
Leaking FPR was the cause of fumes in the cab on my 110 TD5.

The diesel was everywhere, on the exhaust, the engine under tray, on the gearbox.

When the engine got hot the smell started. I also cleaned the engine bay and the smell went away for a while, then came back.
 
The seal across the back of the bonnet has seen better days will change.
Engine 300 TDI over 300k on it, Rebuilt two years ago (Long story) due to cracked cylinder head uses a bit of oil 1/2 ltr 2k.
 
Yes thanks will check al this and get back to you good to have people who have similar interests.
I have had the lr over 20 years so not many bolts have not been off it and has a few mods, normally travel all over Europe with it.
Engine temp is about 98c and will sit at 70mph all day which has good boost pressure which lower down the rev range is bad.
Tows a trailer good the drag loads the engine and brings the boost pressure up, MPG about 27.
 
Yes thanks will check al this and get back to you good to have people who have similar interests.
I have had the lr over 20 years so not many bolts have not been off it and has a few mods, normally travel all over Europe with it.
Engine temp is about 98c and will sit at 70mph all day which has good boost pressure which lower down the rev range is bad.
Tows a trailer good the drag loads the engine and brings the boost pressure up, MPG about 27.

What sort of temp gauge are you using? I ask as I would say 98 degc is to hot.
 
Gauge is a proper smiths with thermo couple taped into the thermo housing and checked with infrared gun its right.
Have large allum rad with sight glass on the header tank and kenlowe type system.
Has full width intercooler and winch on the front which restricts the airflow i know.
Keep good eye on temp in hot climates and just pull it back when the temp starts going up not sure of anything else i can do the fan is the biggest that will fit. Also have capillary type oil pressure gauge which also will give indication of overheating.
Trouble is the gauges supplied are at best bad so you were never sure of the temperature in the first place have asked this question a few times/
At work the larger engines run about 95c so assume we are not far out no two engines run the same.
 
New door glass supplied the nylon brackets that hold the glass to the slider are only 24cm apart and my slider is 35cm apart.
Not in the uk and think although the glass fits it is fore an earlier model on pictures I see on the thread brackets are at each end of the slider same as mine. can anybody verify this please.
Will use bracket of old glass I think just to get me home where I have spare glass any idea what glue to use the windscreen people here are not too helpful tried to get glue of them.
 
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