Front door wiring replacement

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Stuey77

Member
Posts
13
Location
Frogham
Hi,
I'm going to try and replace front door wiring loom on my TD5 defender. Part is LR016315. Any advice ? I'm not sure how to make the connections in the car as they look hard to get to.

Thanks
Stuart
 
The loom has all the connectors on it, yes? So is plug and play:)
Door card and Kick panel off, I would guess to reveal the connectors.
Looking online at the part number the loom is not very long so would not think it goes up behind the dash.

1hr of a job including a tea/fag break:D
Except a few broken clips maybe;).

Go on be brave and just go for it, you sound a little hesitant to dive in, what could go wrong its a landie:eek::oops:.

J
 
The loom has all the connectors on it, yes? So is plug and play:)
Door card and Kick panel off, I would guess to reveal the connectors.
Looking online at the part number the loom is not very long so would not think it goes up behind the dash.

1hr of a job including a tea/fag break:D
Except a few broken clips maybe;).

Go on be brave and just go for it, you sound a little hesitant to dive in, what could go wrong its a landie:eek::oops:.

J

Usually the main connector is just inside the door from the frame, getting the rubber grommet off can be the worse of it …
 
Thanks guys. I managed to swap the loom in the end. Problem is it turns out the wiring wasn't the problem . So the window only goes up very intermittently. Goes down no problem. I couldn't see any mechanical problem when I stripped the door down. I checked and got about + 11V and -11v supplied to the window motor. I wonder big the motor is faulty. Any ideas? Cheers
 
I'll try some vaseline thanks. I do wonder if the motor is faulty though. When I press the down switch you can hear a slight click from the motor and it moves the window. When I press up I don't notice anything from the motor. A positive or negative roughly 11V gets to the motor depending on up or down button pressed. Is it possible I need a new motor / window regulator ?
 
Are you trying with the car running, mine are noticeably slower when car off?
Not sure on setup, with motor disconnected do you get the low voltage?
If still low voltage can you remove the motor, see if it turns to check window motor.
If you suspect motor can you swap with other side?
 
Hi J_D
I measured the Voltage with engine off and wire disconnected from motor. Is 11v on the low side? I wasn't sure what the expected voltage is
 
While 11v may be low, more important is the difference between the voltage at the battery and the motor. could be low battery voltage/weak battery.
Does it work with the engine running?
What voltage do you get at the battery, engine off then with engine on?
Other tests could include wire direct from battery to window motor (disconnected plug) to test or rule out cars wiring.
 
Hi J_D
It didn't work with engine on or off. Great suggestion re connecting car battery directly. I did this just now and the motor worked in both directions! Could that indicate a bad earth somewhere? Or a problem with the switch?

The passenger side door window has been acting up for a longer time. Similar issue... Window gets stuck part the way up sometimes but then can be tricky to get it to go all the way up. Driver side a bit different in that it mostly doesn't go up at all but occasionally will. I assumed passenger side was more a mechanical problem but haven't investigated yet

Thanks
 
Could that indicate a bad earth somewhere? Or a problem with the switch?

It could:rolleyes:.

Measure voltage before and after switch, And check wherever the earth is for the door loom.
It is probably earthed through the new loom and on the bulkhead somewhere at a guess.

J
 
Hi Marion,
I'll check the switch. No earth as such on the door loom... The polarity of the Voltages in the loom is set by the switch.
 
Hi Marion,
I'll check the switch. No earth as such on the door loom... The polarity of the Voltages in the loom is set by the switch.

Oh missed that:eek:.
Then check both sides of the switch.
I have never understood this + and - volts:confused: but which ever way you look at it volts travel and have to have 2 ends for it to get though, if its forward or backards it makes no diff:p, if there is ****ty contacts along that route you are gonna suffer:).

Get the meter out and start probing things:eek::D.

J
 
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