Front crank oilseal.

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N

Nige

Guest
Right, got the heater O rings done (got 2 spare if anyone wants em!) I have a dripping front crank
oilseal to do, my question is - How tight will the nut be? I have home tools & a breaker bar & a very
decent socket set. How much oil will come out if I take the seal out etc? Whats best to drift the new
seal in?

It doesn't look a hard job, but i aslo have to tighten up the nut to the correct torque.

Any tips? it's a 4.6 P38 btw, as if you didnt know!

Just the wheel bearing (or diff) to sort & a few other jobs & we are there!!!!!

Nige


--

Subaru WRX
Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)
200cc Dirt Bike (Dirtbag)

We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!


 

"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:eek:[email protected]...
> Right, got the heater O rings done (got 2 spare if anyone wants em!) I
have a dripping front crank
> oilseal to do, my question is - How tight will the nut be? I have home
tools & a breaker bar & a very
> decent socket set. How much oil will come out if I take the seal out etc?
Whats best to drift the new
> seal in?

No oil will come out, the oil level is below the seal, unless you do it
parked on a steep downhill. ;-)
Prise the old one out with a small pry-bar or screwdriver.
Drifting the new one in is simplicity, oil the lip of the seal and gently
tap it in until flush, working around it with a small clean toffee hammer.
Not much force required at all.
Nut will most likely be effin tight. If it's an auto, remove the cover at
the flywheel to allow you (preferably your helper) to lock the flywheel with
a large pry-bar or similar. If manual, 4th gear and foot hard on brakes, NOT
5th!

> It doesn't look a hard job, but i aslo have to tighten up the nut to the
correct torque.

About 210lbft if memory serves me right.

> Any tips? it's a 4.6 P38 btw, as if you didnt know!

As if, indeed :)

> Just the wheel bearing (or diff) to sort & a few other jobs & we are
there!!!!!

And a gas conversion...... teehee.

Badger.


 
Badger wrote:

> Nut will most likely be effin tight. If it's an auto, remove the cover at
> the flywheel to allow you (preferably your helper) to lock the flywheel with
> a large pry-bar or similar. If manual, 4th gear and foot hard on brakes, NOT
> 5th!

Just curious, why not 5th? Is it weak in this particualar application or
is it general advice?

John
 

"John Greystrong" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Badger wrote:
>
> > Nut will most likely be effin tight. If it's an auto, remove the cover
at
> > the flywheel to allow you (preferably your helper) to lock the flywheel
with
> > a large pry-bar or similar. If manual, 4th gear and foot hard on brakes,
NOT
> > 5th!
>
> Just curious, why not 5th? Is it weak in this particualar application or
> is it general advice?

5th gear is transmiting the drive/torque via the layshaft (as are 1st to
3rd), 4th gear is the direct path via the mainshaft, going through only one
synchro cone, and therefore less likely to create any problems. Direct top
(or 4th) tends to be the strongest power transmission path through most if
not all rear wheel drive gearboxes. Front wheel drive boxes are different,
most have the drive transmitted from one shaft to another in all gears. I've
seen many a 5th gear bust on an LT77 box after people trying to remove
flywheel bolts from TDi engines in 5th gear, but then the LT77 wasn't known
for the strength of it's 5th gearset!
Unless you have an LT77 box, then no it's not that the 5th gear is weak as
such, just good general engineering advice really.
Badger.


 
On or around Tue, 27 Jun 2006 23:08:42 +0100, "Nige"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Right, got the heater O rings done (got 2 spare if anyone wants em!) I have a dripping front crank
>oilseal to do, my question is - How tight will the nut be?

fookin' tight.

apply good strong impact socket, and strong breaker bar, turn crank until
said bar is about an inch above the chassis. disconnect ignition or pump
stop solenoid and turn starter. It'll make a bloody great bang, and if
you're lucky, loosen the bolt. If you use a cheap breaker bar, it'll make a
bloody great bang and bits of breaker bar will fly all over the place.

>I have home tools & a breaker bar & a very
>decent socket set. How much oil will come out if I take the seal out etc? Whats best to drift the new
>seal in?
>
>It doesn't look a hard job, but i aslo have to tighten up the nut to the correct torque.

fookin' tight...

On the 300 TDi I failed to get it as tight as the book said... even with
about 4ft of leverage on the thing. Book say 65 ft lbs plus 180 degrees,
with loctite on the threads. I got about 140 degrees and the thing wasn;t
gonna move any more.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Appearances: You don't really need make-up. Celebrate your authentic
face by frightening people in the street.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 
Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Tue, 27 Jun 2006 23:08:42 +0100, "Nige"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>> Right, got the heater O rings done (got 2 spare if anyone wants
>> em!) I have a dripping front crank oilseal to do, my question is -
>> How tight will the nut be?
>
> fookin' tight.
>
> apply good strong impact socket, and strong breaker bar, turn crank
> until said bar is about an inch above the chassis. disconnect
> ignition or pump stop solenoid and turn starter. It'll make a
> bloody great bang, and if you're lucky, loosen the bolt. If you
> use a cheap breaker bar, it'll make a bloody great bang and bits of
> breaker bar will fly all over the place.
>
>> I have home tools & a breaker bar & a very
>> decent socket set. How much oil will come out if I take the seal
>> out etc? Whats best to drift the new seal in?
>>
>> It doesn't look a hard job, but i aslo have to tighten up the nut
>> to the correct torque.
>
> fookin' tight...
>
> On the 300 TDi I failed to get it as tight as the book said... even
> with about 4ft of leverage on the thing. Book say 65 ft lbs plus
> 180 degrees, with loctite on the threads. I got about 140 degrees
> and the thing wasn;t gonna move any more.


Feck me, it's beyond my breaker bar. It's not a cheapie, but that is some going
--

Subaru WRX
Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)
Looking at a 525cc KTM dirtbike now!

We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!


 
Austin Shackles wrote:

> On the 300 TDi I failed to get it as tight as the book said... even with
> about 4ft of leverage on the thing. Book say 65 ft lbs plus 180 degrees,
> with loctite on the threads. I got about 140 degrees and the thing wasn;t
> gonna move any more.

I knew there was a reason I have an 8:1 torque multipier in my toolbox
(bought for doing head studs on heavy diesels). It makes 600 ft lbs a
doddle.



--
EMB
 
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